tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-35195888959539123702024-03-13T01:55:39.800+00:00James and Karen's Asian OdysseyStories and photos from our 6 month tour of Japan, China, Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos, Thailand and IndiaAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17141805589023321371noreply@blogger.comBlogger89125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3519588895953912370.post-47794745295387123962012-11-13T18:45:00.000+00:002012-11-13T18:45:05.771+00:00Delhi Encounter #2: Pickpockets and Skyfall<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">9th-14th November 2012</span><br />
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Despite being the <a href="http://www.jameshoskin.com/2012/11/delhi-encounter-1-indian-gp.html" target="_blank">least deserving</a>, Delhi is the only place we’ve visited on this trip to be given a second chance. For some reason we’d given ourselves a full five days more to spend in the place. We briefly considered holing up in our hotel for the duration but sense prevailed and we decided to give it another go. Who knows, maybe last time we were just unlucky…<br />
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It seems that even when Delhi gets things right it gets them wrong. We’d booked a first-class cabin for the sleeper train from Jodhpur. The cabin was fairly big and pretty clean if you don’t mind the odd mouse. We also set off on time which was nice. Even better, we actually arrived in Delhi early. This is usually a good thing but we were meant to arrive at 5.30 am and at 5 am we were awoken by the guards knocking on our door announcing that we were nearly there. By ‘nearly there’ they meant ‘already arrived’ as less than 30 seconds later the train come to a stop. Cue a mad, sleepy scramble to gather our stuff (and wits) and get off the train.<br />
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Our hotel had sent a driver to pick us up and by about 9 am they’d managed to clear a room for us so we managed to catch up on lost sleep pretty quickly. Days one and two were spent exploring the local area, Karol Bagh (still mental, but less mental than where we stayed last time) and doing a bit of light shopping along the Main Bazaar. It was all fairly relaxing – even the overly persistent rickshaw drivers weren’t being <em>too</em> annoying. So, on our third day we thought we’d visit a couple of the sights, the Red Fort and Jama Masjid.<br />
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We took the metro to Chandni Chowk and to get to the fort we had to fight our way along the bazaar. With Diwali being just around the corner, it was packed. We emerged from the other end hot and bothered but in one piece only for a rogue bicycle to take a chunk out of Karen’s shin. Gritting our teeth we soldiered on.<br />
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The Red Fort looks very grand from the outside and we considered going in but after the past couple of weeks we were a bit forted-out so we decided just to take a couple of snaps and go to the mosque instead.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-WeGfVpSIUHo/UKKOKadIlUI/AAAAAAAAWVc/k-G7fVG1x7I/s1600-h/SAM_1151%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1151" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-AFZcDgWnoKE/UKKOL99kbbI/AAAAAAAAWVk/wCommd3lk5o/SAM_1151_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1151" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Red Fort</td></tr>
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This is where things started to get nasty. To get to the mosque we had to walk down Meena Bazaar, packed to the gills with stalls and people. As with any large crowd, there was lots of shoving and jostling but about half-way along we both suddenly became aware that the same few men had been keeping pace with us. They’d been taking it in turns to push in front of us then suddenly stop to either answer a phantom text message or pretend to peruse a stall. Each time this caused the crowd around us to bunch and, during the subsequent jostling, their accomplices were attempting to rifle through my bag. Sure enough, as soon as we stopped and checked we found the bag half-opened. Luckily all the valuables were in my pockets (thank you wallet-on-a-chain) and nothing was missing. The most they would have got was a half-used wet-wipe.<br />
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A bit rattled, we made our way to the mosque, took off our shoes (as you do) and walked towards the entrance. Our way was suddenly blocked by a group of very aggressive young men who insisted that we had to pay 300 rupees each for our ‘cameras’. We knew that entry was free and although we had a camera, we had no intention of using it, so refused and tried to walk on. They continued to physically bar our progress although none of them had any official uniforms or ID cards and other tourists were being waved through while this was going on. I don't know why they took a particular dislike to us but judging from similar travellers’ experiences I’ve since read on TripAdvisor and Lonely Planet, this kind of extortion is common at Jama Masjid. The experience left a really bad taste in the mouth – it’s easily the most uncomfortable and unwelcome I’ve felt anywhere in Asia, and that includes <a href="http://www.jameshoskin.com/2012/08/hoi-an.html" target="_blank">these guys</a> in Vietnam.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-uVFMwAKd6_I/UKKONxQ3nFI/AAAAAAAAWVs/BDqqMuZnEDM/s1600-h/IMG_0456%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0456" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Zra0I7HibHQ/UKKOPtvAZbI/AAAAAAAAWV0/r0I-rw56eHU/IMG_0456_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0456" width="229" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Remember us?</td></tr>
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We abandoned the sightseeing for the day and took refuge in our hotel room.<br />
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The next day we decided to we needed a bit of insulation so we took ourselves off to a nice clean shopping mall and went to see the new James Bond movie - Skyfall. Sadly it didn't live up to the hype. Bond may be back but that’s only true in the literal sense. The dialogue was stilted and the story unbelievable. Now, that’s true for all Bond movies, but what was missing was the sheer joie-de-vivre and chutzpah that usually accompanies the silliness. (English, French and Yiddish in one sentence - Sugoi!) I want my Bond movies to say to me, “I know this is ridiculous, but just go with it and let’s all have some fun!”<br />
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Skyfall tries to take itself a bit too seriously and for me it didn’t really work. Also, like last time, the cinema’s aircon was set to <a href="http://www.jameshoskin.com/2012/11/delhi-encounter-1-indian-gp.html" target="_blank">January in Novosibirsk</a>.<br />
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So, after four days, my opinion of Delhi was still at pretty low ebb. But it did have one last trick up it’s sleeve – the Lotus Temple.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-yWZbQigZQdc/UKKORSS1bvI/AAAAAAAAWV8/amA5TaW7rqg/s1600-h/SAM_1157%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1157" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-_IPFbx2RzVE/UKKOS1TtcOI/AAAAAAAAWWE/WyV3XfpbmBY/SAM_1157_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1157" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Baha'i Lotus Temple</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looks like a lotus!</td></tr>
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Finally, a place I can unequivocally recommend – free to get in, almost spotlessly clean, well-organised – it’s an oasis of calm amidst the madness. We spent a pleasant hour enjoying the views and the sweet, sweet silence inside the temple itself. (No talking allowed – it’s heaven!)<br />
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And so, for the first time in six months, that brings this blog right up to the present moment. I’m writing this in our hotel room listening to the first fireworks of Diwali explode around us. It’s been an amazing six months – we’ve seen and done so much and some of it hasn’t really sunk in yet - but I think we’re both finally ready to come home. <br />
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Do keep checking the blog as in the next week or so I’m planning to put together some of our favourite bits and closing thoughts: a highlights package for those of you that haven’t managed to read all 90 posts! (Shame on you.)<br />
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Until then it’s sayonara, zai jian, etc. etc. and we're looking forward to seeing you all again very soon!<br />
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<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b>Current location: Delhi until tomorrow</b></span><br />
<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b>Next stop: home</b></span><br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17141805589023321371noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3519588895953912370.post-83158529692306692292012-11-13T13:57:00.001+00:002012-11-13T13:57:58.406+00:00Rhapsody In Blue<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">6th-9th November</span><br />
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Having already visited the Pink City it seemed only fair that we also pay a visit to the Blue City – Jodhpur. Things were slightly different this time as we’d booked into a homestay in a small village about 30km south of the city (<a href="http://salawashomestay.com/">Chhotaram Prajapat's Homestay</a>). We arrived late – at about 11pm – and were picked up from the station by the owner Chhotu and his father. Despite the late hour, when we arrived at the guesthouse his mother and wife greeted us with hot chai, friendship bracelets and bindis. The perfect welcome!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You know when you've been bindied</td></tr>
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Our rooms looked like mud huts (although they were sturdily built) and had been hand-decorated by Chhotu’s mother. It was surprisingly cold in the countryside so we were glad of some extra blankets – good practice for coming home to the Scottish winter!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-rJZZAPwUNoI/UKJFD2KHtLI/AAAAAAAAWQY/NHb_9Xx5aCE/s1600-h/SAM_1044%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1044" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-M7A-9YK2LAs/UKJFGFxPEbI/AAAAAAAAWQg/kjS8KEELeC4/SAM_1044_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1044" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mudhut-style rooms</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-fSerx2iS7Rc/UKJFIsTI4TI/AAAAAAAAWQo/pVy1Gs7yiSE/s1600-h/SAM_1073%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1073" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-fdueGQ-vLEw/UKJFLjYqxaI/AAAAAAAAWQw/ElGS5tpGB2E/SAM_1073_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1073" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Diwali decorations</td></tr>
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The next day we spent relaxing around their house. Electricity is reserved for lights and the lone computer (which I had to clean of viruses before we used it – it was riddled!) but there’s none for cooking, nor any gas, so all our meals were cooked over a cow-dung fire. The food was delicious – simple vegetable curries, freshly prepared each day, served with millet chapattis and spicy pickle. I think it was some of the best food we’ve had in India. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-ylrfJ0MADB0/UKJFOdIGf0I/AAAAAAAAWQ4/En6UoxhSKRg/s1600-h/SAM_1005%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1005" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-kQqwCsfV5Kk/UKJFQ9EMDhI/AAAAAAAAWRA/82KvjvTN1Pc/SAM_1005_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1005" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The kitchen</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-_C6DYq55o68/UKJFUevtbZI/AAAAAAAAWRI/wX5qITl9Mog/s1600-h/SAM_0996%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0996" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-f4JP71nPCgQ/UKJFV2bbfQI/AAAAAAAAWRQ/YlTqBUSMqxc/SAM_0996_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0996" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Having lunch with Chhotu's family</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Making millet-flour chapattis</td></tr>
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That evening Chhotu’s younger brother took us on a walk around the village and up the local hill to watch the sunset. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-MMgzo1pjjY8/UKJFbwMjQ-I/AAAAAAAAWRo/K0xU8dZOfRQ/s1600-h/SAM_1011%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1011" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-udl7BJ_uiRo/UKJFeRX4lTI/AAAAAAAAWRw/9yj4kkR2xBQ/SAM_1011_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1011" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chhotu's brother Omprakash choosing ringtones</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View across Rajahstan</td></tr>
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The next day was similarly relaxing but in the afternoon we went on a ‘village safari’. It was…interesting.<br />
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First we met a woman who could magically remove parasites and dirt from people’s ears and teeth by gently sucking on a small metal tube. She demonstrated on a couple of her kids…Behold this empty metal tube! Watch as I place it against my son’s ear and gently suck! Marvel as I blow the extracted ‘dirt’ and ‘worms’ into this bowl…! It was one of the most disgusting things I’ve ever seen - basically a grown woman gobbing into a bucket. I was asked if I would I like to try it .Er, no.<br />
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Our next stop was better - a visit to a Bishnoi village. The Bishnois are a sort of conservationist religion - the original <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bishnois" target="_blank">tree-huggers</a>. We got shown how to wrap a turban (and try one on) and then then took part in a traditional opium ceremony. Of course, we didn’t inhale.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-zaYe2DU7kMA/UKJFlxgcmDI/AAAAAAAAWSI/JpnfoVML8io/s1600-h/SAM_1051%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1051" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-_efI-PMIEps/UKJFnlZfkMI/AAAAAAAAWSQ/gkiJAkmMV3I/SAM_1051_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1051" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Who said I've got a big head?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-YD4NZPCtuJA/UKJFqXLP4YI/AAAAAAAAWSY/ekfXMUpEWzY/s1600-h/SAM_1057%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1057" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-ViQ8rPOwNSU/UKJFsjMmNyI/AAAAAAAAWSg/hZEV0SS4Pdk/SAM_1057_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1057" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Preparing the drugs</td></tr>
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Finally, after stopping by a lake to see some cranes, we came the highlight of the tour, a demonstration of how to make a clay pot.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen" frameborder="0" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/EBOgntFDX6A" width="560"></iframe></div>
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On our last day, before we caught the sleeper train back to Delhi, we took a tour of the main tourist spots in Jodhpur city – Umaid Bhavan Palace, Jaswant Thada mausoleum, and Mehrangarh Fort. All three are very well presented on top of the hills surrounding the city.<br />
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The palace was only built in the early 20th century. It’s main claim to fame is that the internal furnishings, originally ordered from London, were sunk by a U-boat before they got to India. Instead, the Maharajah got a Polish chap (who knew a few things about interior design and Art Deco styling) to knock up some replacements! Unfortunately only a third of the palace is open to the public. One of the remaining thirds is still occupied by royals and the other third is a top-class hotel. Apparently Naomi Campbell was hosting a party there when we visited. Our invite must have got lost in the post.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hi Naomi (third window from the right)</td></tr>
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Much more interesting were the mausoleum – quite pretty in itself but also a good spot for the best views of the fort – and the fort itself. The fort was particularly well preserved and free audio guides were available which enhanced the tour somewhat. We also had spectacular vistas of the Blue City. The blue paint on the walls was originally a sign of wealth, but subsequently caught on with the general populace, no doubt helped by the claim that the blue colour helped repel mosquitoes – sounds like somebody knew a thing or two about marketing!</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<img alt="SAM_1094" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-wLfsDVswZc4/UKJGFTT8sNI/AAAAAAAAWTA/iXHHsS2pzjo/SAM_1094_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1094" width="404" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption">Jaswant Thada mausoleum</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-zrFLKVHVZl0/UKJGKUcvPyI/AAAAAAAAWTI/6AoOoige1Hg/s1600-h/SAM_1086%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1086" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-mUkOHPYBsKI/UKJGL8sV88I/AAAAAAAAWTQ/5oEuqxJqbJM/SAM_1086_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1086" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The majestic Mehrangarh Fort</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-raU0bsgROfw/UKJGOOXloDI/AAAAAAAAWTY/vFkMVDqRJRM/s1600-h/SAM_1090%25255B4%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1090" border="0" height="228" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-GohNUr9Cxbk/UKJGP_ZCbKI/AAAAAAAAWTg/Ibet6TOvih4/SAM_1090_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1090" width="554" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Panorama of Jodhpur</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-1Zho6ojiaaU/UKJGTH-w1ZI/AAAAAAAAWTo/iYsqLVeNqs0/s1600-h/SAM_1107%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1107" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-ZSXm2OxNxUE/UKJGU62nzDI/AAAAAAAAWTw/sz8zFUmXfG4/SAM_1107_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1107" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Blue City</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-5xKhmGQqj-s/UKJGX9fSxXI/AAAAAAAAWT4/FiEAKtKKEHk/s1600-h/SAM_1122%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1122" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-EExH39AiVec/UKJGZqDB7xI/AAAAAAAAWUA/EU2YJaGGpJc/SAM_1122_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1122" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More blueness viewed from the fort</td></tr>
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</div>
<div align="left">
Finally, we had a bit of spare time so we finished our afternoon off with a pleasant stroll in the 'Monkey Garden'. I don't know much about it other than Chhotu said it would be nice and full of monkeys - correct on both counts.</div>
<div align="left">
<br /></div>
<div align="center">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-d8jaUNG3qnA/UKJGcajl1zI/AAAAAAAAWUI/WPKeeNedUiw/s1600-h/SAM_1145%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1145" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-UdFBDeuVYOA/UKJGeLYTUUI/AAAAAAAAWUQ/FFfw7fyg94U/SAM_1145_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1145" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just chillin'</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-_4k3zyxX-98/UKJGhF_8MbI/AAAAAAAAWUY/GzRFzYgjjKw/s1600-h/SAM_1135%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1135" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-qeOtvbvDw3Q/UKJGj2CEuhI/AAAAAAAAWUg/7GYDSLDNYqw/SAM_1135_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1135" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monkey Garden monuments</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
And then it was time to say goodbye to Jodhpur. We had a wonderful time there, in a large part because of the welcome we received from Chhotu and his family. They really made sure we had a special time.<br />
<br />
<div align="center">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-E7mQsZl-Nds/UKJGnSfSwjI/AAAAAAAAWUo/a9VaQI4wY5I/s1600-h/SAM_1081%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1081" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-XyKQwUIrkRc/UKJGpA94ewI/AAAAAAAAWUw/sndpihJhSgg/SAM_1081_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1081" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chhotu (second from right) and family</td></tr>
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</div>
Next up, Delhi – the revenge!<br />
<br />
<b><span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;">Current location: Delhi until tomorrow</span></b><br />
<b><span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;">Next stop: home</span></b><br />
<b><span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></b></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17141805589023321371noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3519588895953912370.post-39640737182687363532012-11-11T17:49:00.000+00:002012-11-11T17:49:51.198+00:00Pretty In Pink<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">2nd-5th November 2012</span><br />
<br />
If you were paying attention, you may have picked up from my <a href="http://www.jameshoskin.com/2012/11/agra.html" target="_blank">last post</a> that I was glad to leave Agra. Being organised types, we’d booked all our Indian trains over a month ago so we didn’t have to worry about getting a ticket and were looking forward to a pleasant few hours relaxing on the way to Jaipur. Mr Singh from our homestay gave us a lift to the station and we were off! <br />
<br />
Or not.<br />
<br />
When we got into the station we found our 5pm train was already estimated to be 3½ hours late. One hour later it slipped to 4½ hours. Suddenly our 10pm arrival in Jaipur was looking more like 3am (or later) and our first day there was likely to be a write-off. Time to check out the alternatives. <br />
<br />
This is where India comes into its own. A quick enquiry outside the station and I managed to get a good price for a taxi (£45 for a 4 hour drive). Imagine pitching up at Edinburgh Waverley and asking for a taxi to Birmingham! Luckily we also found a fellow traveller who was willing to split the fare (Katherine from Oz). We all crammed into the Nissan Micra-sized ‘taxi’ and 5 hours and one chai break later we arrived in Jaipur.<br />
<br />
Well rested, we were up early to explore the Pink City, so-called because of the salmon pink paint that covers a lot of the city’s buildings. Apparently it was originally done in 1876 to hide the poor quality construction materials from a visiting dignitary – the then Prince of Wales and soon to be King Edward VII.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-0j7XisGvrRY/UJ_SFsCHlzI/AAAAAAAAWHQ/A15ha-UTZq0/s1600-h/SAM_08843.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0884" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-VhdNLxlceE0/UJ_SHjb8FqI/AAAAAAAAWHY/lkBBQzMyKnE/SAM_0884_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0884" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First view of the Pink City</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Despite warnings in the guide book about the crowds and pollution, we found Jaipur to be much nicer than either Delhi or Agra. In contrast to Agra in particular, Jaipur felt more like a functioning city with it’s own identity. There’s clearly more to it than just the monuments.<br />
<br />
But if it’s monuments you’re after then it doesn’t disappoint. There’s loads to choose from but our first stop – and my favourite monument so far in Asia – was Jantar Mantar: the Royal Observatory. It’s a collection of giant instruments designed to measure and predict the movement of heavenly bodies. The crowning glory is the magnificent <i>S</i><em>amrat Yantra</em> a huge 27m high sundial that is supposedly accurate to two seconds - true in theory, just not in practice. Walking among the instruments was like being in a land of giants. Fantastic!<br />
<br />
(In the interests of balance I have to admit that Karen wasn’t nearly as impressed as I was. Must be a boy thing.)<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-7GZeeSZ2x0E/UJ_SKL-SiSI/AAAAAAAAWHg/If8RjYUiEJk/s1600-h/SAM_09073.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0907" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-0ZGAS6cHm_s/UJ_SLoJ3UfI/AAAAAAAAWHo/SkcegDoYKf8/SAM_0907_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0907" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No idea what this does but it looks the business</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-WZ7s3R5P2nE/UJ_SN2II20I/AAAAAAAAWHw/wiAKd1g2YK0/s1600-h/SAM_08933.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0893" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-B9ktSKCRPJs/UJ_SPoSV-OI/AAAAAAAAWH4/Kyto--htboU/SAM_0893_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0893" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Same thing but <i>with bits missing! </i>Love it!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-xDMOWIp01_g/UJ_SRjgCRmI/AAAAAAAAWIA/nlVSXPWteCk/s1600-h/SAM_08973.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0897" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-ncDoMbJmP38/UJ_STLJ1nsI/AAAAAAAAWII/fKW7XzxmbjE/SAM_0897_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0897" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Something to do with the zodiac - I should have got the audio guide...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-TJRYVPvO9mo/UJ_SVAeXszI/AAAAAAAAWIQ/65qHL1l_2gs/s1600-h/SAM_09003.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0900" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-i9tKbK_Hb5U/UJ_SWnDTCQI/AAAAAAAAWIY/t3FmQ8yT2TQ/SAM_0900_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0900" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Samrat Yantra - how big is your clock?</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-HPlbNQNhZQc/UJ_SY2mN7rI/AAAAAAAAWIg/cqTcxxsYb8Y/s1600-h/SAM_09033.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0903" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-ybGcIgBlhCs/UJ_SaOTJhlI/AAAAAAAAWIo/AkR0OH5cBvY/SAM_0903_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0903" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the third stroke it will be a quarter to April</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-nainjZ7Updo/UJ_ScDjKcKI/AAAAAAAAWIw/MaZIBCHoSIk/s1600-h/SAM_09053.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0905" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-KV5YljvBoAA/UJ_Sd1eDfmI/AAAAAAAAWI4/jrm6J8jPFU4/SAM_0905_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0905" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The inspiration for "Stairway To Heaven"</td></tr>
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Right beside the observatory is the City Palace. Karen’s experience was soured slightly when she was stung by a wasp as I bought our tickets. A nearby Indian gentleman, who I’ve no doubt was only trying to help, claimed it was only a butterfly. A butterfly with a huge stinger that looked like a wasp perhaps…<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-dOCogYDbdjQ/UJ_SgAdp3hI/AAAAAAAAWJA/BX--INV8mIM/s1600-h/SAM_09163.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0916" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-xqiS_EDXiNw/UJ_Sh8aZOBI/AAAAAAAAWJI/sioL3R50Fl8/SAM_0916_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0916" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entrance to the palace</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="SAM_0923" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-v9ubM7JlUss/UJ_SmirnkfI/AAAAAAAAWJg/a3KUCVhNtCU/SAM_0923_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px auto; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0923" width="404" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What's an Indian urn? Answers on a postcard.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
On our second day we walked out to the Water Palace (Jal Mahal) via the Palace of the Winds (Hawa Mahal). Hawa Mahal is the iconic image of Jaipur, originally part of the City Palace and designed to allow the ladies of the court to observe the goings-on in the city without being seen.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-eblkvh4Xj30/UJ_SpHG1WPI/AAAAAAAAWJo/aF-0VYNG9po/s1600-h/SAM_09243.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0924" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-d_G71xngayM/UJ_SrZ4iR3I/AAAAAAAAWJw/FlUE5pBupcM/SAM_0924_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0924" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hawa Mahal</td></tr>
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Just north of the city centre, Jal Mahal is a palace built in the middle of a lake. No idea why, maybe the Maharajah loved mosquitoes. Anyway it’s very pretty.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-PJydd_15vxM/UJ_StUUdcbI/AAAAAAAAWJ4/Hjny_h_T85A/s1600-h/SAM_09323.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0932" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-hrDUBqhmV4o/UJ_SuxR_CUI/AAAAAAAAWKA/aYDi1YtLv6A/SAM_0932_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0932" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jal Mahal</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-5qNxcH1JG0g/UJ_Sw467D1I/AAAAAAAAWKI/7VpA1X3oaOk/s1600-h/SAM_09263.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0926" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-I9dqA-0j_OI/UJ_Sym7rZUI/AAAAAAAAWKQ/rt204K66fPs/SAM_0926_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0926" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another view of Jal Mahal</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div align="left">
The day’s wanderings also led us to a couple of new food experiences. First some delicious, cold lassi from Lassi Wala on the MI Road, served the traditional way in clay cups.</div>
<div align="left">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-DILJiZOdy0c/UJ_S1z4RQwI/AAAAAAAAWKY/HxEmv69sxMo/s1600-h/IMG_15733.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_1573" border="0" height="303" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-F__Js-haU8Q/UJ_S4DeN1lI/AAAAAAAAWKg/6Hqrqj7SdQQ/IMG_1573_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_1573" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Lassi Wala crew. Looking cool.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-9HTipm6ZnCg/UJ_S65NBhcI/AAAAAAAAWKo/tcyzZc2gP_s/s1600-h/IMG_15693.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_1569" border="0" height="303" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Gm1mWqIEM6Y/UJ_S8hkHJGI/AAAAAAAAWKw/Jv_Fyg_OVko/IMG_1569_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_1569" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A nice lassi</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We’d also noticed lots of street vendors selling what looked like small green peppers or chillies. Intrigued, we decided to try them. <br />
<br />
I thought they tasted like young coconuts but Karen guessed right: they were Indian water chestnuts! Delicious and refreshing, especially when washed down with a fresh pomegranate (not pictured – we ate it too quickly).<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-CKuvHnLBcYQ/UJ_S-8HWpZI/AAAAAAAAWK4/T_3Oqvowx9s/s1600-h/IMG_15763.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_1576" border="0" height="303" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-I81dF63TvG4/UJ_TArWlWxI/AAAAAAAAWLA/znWtUNJnBJE/IMG_1576_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_1576" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Indian water chestnuts</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Pl-NsFFwE7c/UJ_TCvyFCHI/AAAAAAAAWLI/pGhajUzyfzY/s1600-h/IMG_15783.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_1578" border="0" height="303" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-BWCeomtAwXA/UJ_TEAiH8_I/AAAAAAAAWLQ/PQHCo8Gi7po/IMG_1578_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_1578" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside view</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
When we arrived at the Water Palace – a five-mile walk from our hotel – we were quite thirsty so we treated ourselves to a refreshing cup of fresh sugar cane juice. The Indian version is served with some crushed lime and a little salt/spice mix at the bottom of the glass. The lime I like, but you can keep the salt and spices.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-O9f6yQJepqs/UJ_TKLOXrDI/AAAAAAAAWLo/4EwXVpy56C4/s1600-h/IMG_15793.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_1579" border="0" height="303" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-VbAe1fXSvUE/UJ_TLvK4kaI/AAAAAAAAWLw/eHBGEnPAQOI/IMG_1579_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_1579" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looks like mud but tastes good</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Not fancying the walk back, we caught a rickshaw back to town. Our driver tried his best to divert us to the bazaars but we resisted. He did take us round the corner to see where they were painting the elephants, supposedly to be ready for Diwali, but I suspect it’s just for the tourists.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-VberM6I_kd0/UJ_TOacfwjI/AAAAAAAAWL4/sO813FuyZHc/s1600-h/IMG_15813.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_1581" border="0" height="303" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-6Snf5QJVaE4/UJ_TQMwfxTI/AAAAAAAAWMA/-yHcMRQIrFQ/IMG_1581_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_1581" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bet he feels silly</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
On our final day we had another late train to catch (this time, thankfully, it was on schedule) so we spent the day visiting the Amber, an abandoned city 10km or so north of the city – the round-trip rickshaw cost about 350 rupees.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-GWjkH1y7WRw/UJ_TSA-r3hI/AAAAAAAAWMI/EVaftzL-60s/s1600-h/SAM_0937%25255B4%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0937" border="0" height="322" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-ZCITCsNJuXc/UJ_TTagZUKI/AAAAAAAAWMQ/lOaeLk3pAfw/SAM_0937_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0937" width="504" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Amber</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Similar to Fatehpur Sikri, it had the usual collection of courtyards, audience chambers, balconies, walkways and alcoves. It was fairly well preserved and unusually, most areas were open for exploration rather than blocked to the public. It’s hilltop location and surrounding walls made for some striking views from the upper levels.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-O0KL0IvvwCM/UJ_TaenfYeI/AAAAAAAAWMo/Wrb2lnmaEco/s1600-h/SAM_0939%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0939" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-ijA0w6a1VzI/UJ_TcfsWnkI/AAAAAAAAWMw/R2lOucDdcLQ/SAM_0939_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0939" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snake charmers on the path up to Amber</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Vcs4WpgKWfE/UJ_TkRd7acI/AAAAAAAAWNI/X4zhGAW1P5Y/s1600-h/SAM_0948%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0948" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Lqzxv0yUzDE/UJ_TmQWyghI/AAAAAAAAWNQ/eneCKMDbmc0/SAM_0948_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0948" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Palace gardens</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-3r_MfBi6g6o/UJ_To0LhRGI/AAAAAAAAWNY/qLYLmJuwDAQ/s1600-h/SAM_0949%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0949" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-l3JOU9VpwUc/UJ_Trt7HP4I/AAAAAAAAWNg/HZ-3yoigamo/SAM_0949_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0949" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What can you see from there?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Sr1vDlHv9SI/UJ_Tt_wkdcI/AAAAAAAAWNo/nGPNfIDd78Y/s1600-h/SAM_0952%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0952" border="0" height="400" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-LY7E3bMBlII/UJ_TvPdBGsI/AAAAAAAAWNw/Tp9W3i3hrbo/SAM_0952_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0952" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aha!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ONpnGt4D-m0/UJ_TxETw6oI/AAAAAAAAWN4/C07xWxLx7ak/s1600-h/SAM_0953%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0953" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-RYmBoG6SVAY/UJ_TylitL1I/AAAAAAAAWOA/1IvZMxUrCrY/SAM_0953_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0953" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">City mosque (with school trip)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-S68yUOvYKlc/UJ_Tf7jAUyI/AAAAAAAAWM4/D5zL5nhCWY4/s1600-h/SAM_0946%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0946" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-424OL17s9ag/UJ_Th0KWH3I/AAAAAAAAWNA/an2peQWghBE/SAM_0946_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0946" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close-up of the colourful uniforms</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-seehICC-_fc/UJ_UFfQ-GiI/AAAAAAAAWPI/0qlM6g1YCzY/s1600-h/SAM_0971%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0971" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-BQp3AghasCs/UJ_UGmjLM5I/AAAAAAAAWPQ/pIkMLJrYT3k/SAM_0971_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0971" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yoga practice</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-rZH_QR1dBeE/UJ_UI4Z9AdI/AAAAAAAAWPY/htpPmCT2wF8/s1600-h/SAM_0979%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0979" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-w_iUdMP8Irg/UJ_UKuoSlII/AAAAAAAAWPg/OudEtmJ7gwg/SAM_0979_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0979" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mosque and gardens</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-h8QafdyukQ0/UJ_UMfKrEoI/AAAAAAAAWPo/RXzfGvs5-x4/s1600-h/SAM_0981%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0981" border="0" height="400" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-X_xnEA1-0JE/UJ_UOVn3fBI/AAAAAAAAWPw/Rv9q249URE8/SAM_0981_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0981" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Secret passage from the Amber up to the nearby Jaigarh fort</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-DlTzICUccBU/UJ_TVZA4YvI/AAAAAAAAWMY/8YEJ_KU5yEY/s1600-h/SAM_0982%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0982" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-2eWq-omSJSg/UJ_TYVjknnI/AAAAAAAAWMg/VVqeC1_Z85o/SAM_0982_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0982" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Amber with Jaigarh fort in the distance</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Having taken a strong dislike to Delhi and being less than enamoured with Agra (the Taj Mahal and our Sikh hosts aside), I’m pleased to say that I really enjoyed Jaipur. The place has a nice buzz about it (apart from the wasps) and there’s lots to see including some real gems. I'm glad I went and I’d be happy to go back.<br />
<br />
Next stop Jodhpur!<br />
<br />
<b><span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;">Current location: Delhi until 14th November</span></b><br />
<b><span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;">Next stop: home</span></b><br />
<b><span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></b></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17141805589023321371noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3519588895953912370.post-9620903720215377562012-11-10T05:34:00.001+00:002012-11-10T05:36:14.088+00:00Agra<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">30th October-2nd November</span><br />
<br />
Let’s get the negatives out of the way first. After Delhi, I was looking for some light relief. Unfortunately Agra is not the right place to look. Don’t get me wrong, the historical sites are stunning, but the city itself is a dump. Get in, see the sights and get out.<br />
<br />
Luckily, the guest-house we’d chosen was an oasis of calm amid the madness. The Heritage Homestay is just outside the city centre (if you can call it that) and is run by a very nice Sikh family. We had a great time there eating home-cooked Indian food, drinking chai and being regaled with anecdotes and stories by the head of family, Mr Singh. He’s quite a character is Mr. Singh – just don’t let him tell you any jokes!<br />
<br />
The easiest way to see the sights in Agra is to hire a rickshaw driver for the day. A word of warning though: you have to make it clear you don’t want to go shopping otherwise you’ll be taken to clothes, carpet and marble shops and given the hard-sell (the drivers make a healthy commission if you buy anything). Our driver, Rama, was pretty good. He only took us to one shop (a marble emporium) but we did get some good background info on the main attractions and tips on what to see and what wasn't worth it. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-2ncEIIDG_Mo/UJyLudWhg0I/AAAAAAAAWA0/WnleoK94r00/s1600-h/SAM_07983.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0798" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-EhNdZ9ECIbw/UJyLwMg_xgI/AAAAAAAAWA8/AhTryH17MiM/SAM_0798_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0798" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A rendezvous with Rama</td></tr>
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The best time to see the Taj Mahal is first thing in the morning, so that's where we started. It was simply stunning.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-DcuXJIUQO24/UJyLyLEuNwI/AAAAAAAAWBE/R41r50bb5oE/s1600-h/SAM_07773.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0777" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-OcitWzb2lcY/UJyL0B0dcMI/AAAAAAAAWBM/DdM-mivBaf8/SAM_0777_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0777" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No Princess Di today</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-YkBZUR1dWdk/UJyL2IchoUI/AAAAAAAAWBU/cihnHkUI9gM/s1600-h/SAM_07626.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0762" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-fXlH1eIlhUY/UJyL3fTsR7I/AAAAAAAAWBc/eSu1_FV_MIs/SAM_0762_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0762" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View along the river behind the Taj Mahal</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Ilr7D_b5CUU/UJyL52eYflI/AAAAAAAAWBo/9qi7Lzpg2jc/s1600-h/SAM_07646.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0764" border="0" height="400" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-TuYwfBnggRs/UJyL7t-0MoI/AAAAAAAAWBw/b09mC0QSoII/SAM_0764_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0764" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Morning sun behind one of the towers at the Taj</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-zVi9alLX8EY/UJyL_HSB70I/AAAAAAAAWB4/6Kcw1KpbG8c/s1600-h/SAM_07656.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0765" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-0obxXm06w_Y/UJyMBazUuQI/AAAAAAAAWCA/xVirQwORxxQ/SAM_0765_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0765" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leaning tower of Agra</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-IfZRqnI15-s/UJyMDwhih0I/AAAAAAAAWCI/Rc5jkyNk7wI/s1600-h/SAM_07716.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0771" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Dc5Y_SxZJ4g/UJyMGJ5iKsI/AAAAAAAAWCQ/weh4GriKwHo/SAM_0771_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0771" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taj Mahal with the mosque to the left</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-MkcZnAPTg5k/UJyMNOPt3XI/AAAAAAAAWCY/gWl9Kx7cVdA/s1600-h/SAM_07433.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0743" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-cJA8NEksN3w/UJyMOoFaFRI/AAAAAAAAWCg/7FWptIMKpPg/SAM_0743_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0743" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Closer view of the mosque</td></tr>
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Just make sure you go early to avoid the crowds.<br />
<br />
Next stop, the so-called Baby Taj.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-AKgK2sG9qjM/UJyMQ9aqEYI/AAAAAAAAWCo/mznnct-0iWM/s1600-h/SAM_07883.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0788" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-ojWs8zo67EI/UJyMSsSXWBI/AAAAAAAAWCw/JRuSK8oVSBI/SAM_0788_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0788" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's like a baby Taj Mahal</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-w1sLIOp_rjk/UJyMU7L_1mI/AAAAAAAAWC4/W8s4EHZnBA0/s1600-h/SAM_07903.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0790" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Hi6HtSgbX4g/UJyMWiv0nSI/AAAAAAAAWDA/jqiZD1yLKFM/SAM_0790_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0790" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Baby Taj</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Then we took a quick trip across the river to see the Taj Mahal from the back. Although it was only about 11am we could already see the difference in the size of the crowds. Just beside this spot lies the foundations for what was supposed to become the second Taj Mahal, an exact replica made of black marble. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-fgwoJ72fluM/UJyMYwFQ6EI/AAAAAAAAWDI/rNTP60nHRFY/s1600-h/SAM_07943.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0794" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-iDA2FqzXt8w/UJyMadq3N9I/AAAAAAAAWDQ/a6Snvh_It0s/SAM_0794_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0794" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taj Mahal from the other side of the river</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Finally, after a short pakora break, we visited Agra fort. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-67YVVPxBe_4/UJyMciunSnI/AAAAAAAAWDY/-cShjRU-iBc/s1600-h/SAM_08083.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0808" border="0" height="400" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-FDT4bPXc4Io/UJyMgafg-rI/AAAAAAAAWDg/79avOB_3zAI/SAM_0808_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0808" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of the Taj Mahal from Agra Fort</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-lKd9Qrpp_wE/UJyMi0s_a0I/AAAAAAAAWDo/rlZn835rVVs/s1600-h/SAM_08153.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0815" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-L71pqC1SgTs/UJyMkUlCsLI/AAAAAAAAWDw/cjSufV6NpbE/SAM_0815_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0815" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside Agra Fort</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
On our second day we took the bus out to Fatehpur Sikri, an abandoned city complex 30km southwest of Agra. This time we had no protection from our friendly rickshaw driver so when we got off the bus we were at the mercy of the touts and guides who deliberately sent us the wrong way up the hill. As a result, the first building (which should have been the last), a huge mosque, was largely spoiled (for me at least) by the incessant interruptions from adults and children offering themselves as guides or trying to sell postcards. They don’t take no for an answer either: more than once I actually had to get snappy to stop us from being followed. Don't they know I'm ratty in the mornings? (They do now...)<br />
<br />
Once we got inside the city complex itself, things got a bit quieter, probably because of the ticket price. Sweet relief! Here are some photos.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-oFRq_bNx8NU/UJyMmuXN3CI/AAAAAAAAWD4/7hOjMm-sjd4/s1600-h/SAM_08313.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0831" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-WIgTkG1gEnQ/UJyMox6AplI/AAAAAAAAWEA/qOQN8vv3MKI/SAM_0831_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0831" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside Fatehpur Sikri</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-gb8WdiH9Ikk/UJyMq-VFR3I/AAAAAAAAWEI/EuPekOgOXRc/s1600-h/SAM_08473.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0847" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-cPbXVH6KBHU/UJyMscGD2BI/AAAAAAAAWEQ/N-zszOyWp0w/SAM_0847_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0847" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Royal Pavilion</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-bCtndqfcxcM/UJyMuVpaJJI/AAAAAAAAWEY/6V7nZfTNmRw/s1600-h/SAM_08553.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0855" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-itJzBC9o7yE/UJyM1bGnloI/AAAAAAAAWEg/2jMLm6Wb1yY/SAM_0855_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0855" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from Royal Pavilion</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-UakWXVorIe8/UJyNA5-QE2I/AAAAAAAAWEo/75Y9Vhhvr2U/s1600-h/SAM_08773.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0877" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-2sg2qKe6GTc/UJyNCp1A5UI/AAAAAAAAWEw/p7GgTMhz68M/SAM_0877_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0877" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Royal parcheesi board</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
According to the guide book, the king loved his parcheesi (which we know as ludo). He would play it with human pieces (of course - he's a king) and games could last for as long as two months during which time no-one was allowed to leave. Plus, if anyone started looking bored or tired they would be forced to drink a glass of wine. Penalty shot! Sounds like my kind of king...<br />
<br />
On our last day we had an evening train to catch to Jaipur so Karen relaxed by doing some interview preparation and I relaxed by having nine holes of golf. I learned two things:<br />
<ol>
<li>Six months without playing golf is poor preparation for a round of golf. There's only so many poor shots you can blame on a badly-kept course (for some reason the only place where there was no sand was in the bunkers).</li>
<li>Golfing etiquette hasn't really caught-on in India. The greenkeepers thought nothing of loitering on the green as I played my approach shots (probably the safest place to be) and before I'd even teed-off I had to break up a fight between two caddies who were literally wrestling over my golf bag!</li>
</ol>
So, in summary, if you're anywhere near Agra you <i>must </i>to go and see the Taj Mahal, just don't linger in the city any longer than you have to!<br />
<br />
Next up, the Pink City of Jaipur...<br />
<br />
<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b>Current location: Delhi until 14th Nov</b></span><br />
<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b>Next stop: home</b></span><br />
<br /></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17141805589023321371noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3519588895953912370.post-42674369367455785562012-11-09T05:27:00.002+00:002012-11-09T05:27:26.180+00:00Delhi Encounter #1: Indian GP<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">24th-30th October 2012</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span>
Arriving in Delhi means that we've begun the final leg of our travels: just three weeks until we get back to the UK. Before then we’ll visit Agra, Jaipur and Jodhpur, but first there’s a Grand Prix to attend! There are other things to see in Delhi, but we’ll be back for a few days before our return flight so we decided to just relax, get our bearings and enjoy the motor racing.<br />
<br />
First impressions of Delhi itself? It’s everything you’d expect: big, dirty, dusty, smelly and crowded. Stepping out of our hotel (close to the main railway station) we’re competing for road space with taxis and rickshaws, motorbikes, cars and vans, food vendors, beggars and touts. It’s mental. <br />
<br />
The hustle and bustle you get used to, the dirt and pollution not so much. We've learned to avoid any damp patches by the side of the road (the smell is an early-warning) but avoiding the dust and fumes is impossible. It’s easily the most polluted city we've visited. And somebody really needs to put a mop round.<br />
<br />
So, what of the Grand Prix itself? I’ll come to the race later but first, I have to say that it is by far the worst organised event I have ever been to. And I've been to T in the Park.<br />
<br />
For example, we didn't have our tickets yet, just a sales voucher so we had to work out how to pick them up. There was no way to pick the tickets up in Delhi itself so we had to go to the circuit which is 50km south of the city. But how to get there? There was an official bus service, but you can only buy bus tickets if you've got your race tickets and even then you can only get bus tickets from the track. Catch 22. We had to pay for a taxi for the day to take us to the circuit on the Friday. We got there late after our driver took an unscheduled detour (twice) so we missed the practice sessions. At the ticket office (a portacabin two miles from the circuit) they gave us our race tickets and then insisted that we could only buy bus tickets for all three days. This led to a full and frank exchange of views. Eventually they backed down and discounted us the cost of Friday's bus. (This seems to be a peculiar feature of India: any ‘rule’ can be circumvented simply by creating enough of a fuss.)<br />
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Judging by the sound of more raised voices as we walked away, we weren't the only frustrated punters…<br />
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And that’s just one example. I had loads more written down but it was starting to sound a bit too ranty. If you want your ear bent for half an hour then you can ask me about it later.<br />
<br />
As for the race itself? Well, it was pretty good I suppose. The noise from the cars is incredible – even with ear-plugs it was almost painfully loud – and the atmosphere in our merged stand (don't ask) was pretty good. Vettel won at a canter and there was some excitement watching Alonso hunt down Webber (and Hamilton almost doing the same). I enjoyed myself but I would have felt a bit short-changed had I paid the European ticket price – for the amount of entertainment on offer, it’s just not worth it. Glad I went though.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-UQKTFBdduoI/UJyGvkmyWAI/AAAAAAAAV9w/htDrzTrpTMs/s1600-h/SAM_07043.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0704" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-e-hGU_whzqs/UJyGxl_ypGI/AAAAAAAAV94/SHqRX3tIInE/SAM_0704_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0704" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">F1 drivers' parade</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-JvErmaUyyjw/UJyGzn9pJGI/AAAAAAAAV-A/MNyLh9VY0xk/s1600-h/SAM_07283.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0728" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Mqw_qYU2kCg/UJyG1bBYz7I/AAAAAAAAV-I/tqTb17OqieQ/SAM_0728_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0728" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some cars</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-JvSykCFUGmY/UJyG3ZCfnxI/AAAAAAAAV-Q/6fm5yDfpIqY/s1600-h/SAM_06904.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0690" border="0" height="212" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-9oTdj6I4GIk/UJyG5GNkAzI/AAAAAAAAV-Y/eXIPVJVqDr0/SAM_0690_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0690" width="554" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our view of the circuit: pretty good - we could see everything but the two straights</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We filled the rest of our time in Delhi wandering around the bazaars near the train station, window shopping and, to pass the time one afternoon, going to the cinema. (We saw Looper – confusing but good. Bruce Willis and time travel is always fun.) The movie experience wasn't without its Indian idiosyncrasies: the usher literally ruined the first minute of the movie by waving the popcorn menu in front of our faces, there was a pointless intermission - too short for a toilet break - and the aircon was set to 'Russian winter'.<br />
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<div align="left">
Delhi also managed to damage my body in several ways. First, I walked into a road-sign cunningly placed on the pavement, at head-height (I still think it jumped out at me). Then I grazed my eye trying to put my laptop in the travel safe (again, don't ask). Finally, in our waste-of-space hotel (once again, don't ask), I walked into a glass door, at speed, cutting my nose and badly bruising my knee. I looked like I’d been ten rounds with Audley Harrison i.e. not that badly hurt. Here's a photo of me feeling sorry for myself.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-a586O4XEc3w/UJyG7WfwmLI/AAAAAAAAV-g/dZ5PfSRyWJs/s1600-h/IMG_15643.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_1564" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Ogsa35fkiwM/UJyG9OqhAII/AAAAAAAAV-o/KxKQvJ7xye4/IMG_1564_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_1564" width="229" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You should have seen the other guy</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
So, let’s just say I wasn't exactly unhappy to leave Delhi. Hopefully the return visit will be better…<br />
<br />
<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b>Current location: Delhi (the return visit) until 14th November</b></span><br />
<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b>Next stop: Blighty!</b></span><br />
<br /></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17141805589023321371noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3519588895953912370.post-89787937433962559032012-10-29T11:42:00.001+00:002012-10-29T11:42:39.218+00:00Varkala<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">15th-23rd October</span><br />
<br />
Another bus journey from Alleppey and we arrived in the beautiful Varkala. Based on a recommendation from a Dutch couple we met in Fort Cochin, we'd booked a few nights at a place called the Woodhouse at the north end of town.<br />
<br />
We arrived to blank looks from the few staff that were loitering around reception. A quick phone call to the absent manager and we were shown to a room, not the one we'd booked but a sneaky upgrade. Mmmm... We insisted on changing, but after this shaky start, things didn't improve. In our new room, half the light bulbs were out, the sheets on the bed were stained and the advertised Wi-Fi wasn't turned on. All this was greeted by shrugs from the staff. After grabbing a bite to eat from the surprisingly good attached restaurant (pakora and Tibetan momos – Chinese dumplings basically), we headed south up the cliff to find ourselves some better accommodation. <br />
<br />
Our new hotel, the Hill View was better in every way: better location, cheaper, cleaner and just better run. The views from the cliff were spectacular and there were loads of places to eat nearby, the pick of the bunch being the Coffee Temple for breakfast (porridge and cappuccino), Little Tibet (good, cheap Indian and Tibetan food) and Abba (not the band). The attached restaurant - Cafe Del Mar - was also pretty good. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-qEcoj9rG_Kk/UI5nbFqOctI/AAAAAAAAV5w/pmwWQ627xEc/s1600-h/SAM_0657%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0657" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-uCgbFFrAfqQ/UI5nc3Tf1LI/AAAAAAAAV54/kiGg8Txuu94/SAM_0657_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0657" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View south from the beach</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Q9QCNFjEvjo/UI5nk7bGsSI/AAAAAAAAV6A/P9GXz4YmByA/s1600-h/SAM_0667%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0667" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-2AGFkbv10v0/UI5nmltJVII/AAAAAAAAV6I/h1yWfOj73cA/SAM_0667_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0667" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View south from the cliff</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div align="left">
For the next week we did a whole lot of not very much. We sunbathed, we belly-surfed (braving the fierce undertow), we watched the sunset over beers, we ate pizza in our room with the football on the telly, we watched the sea eagles (and a mad French man) ride the updrafts over the cliffs, we read our Kindles and we relaxed. </div>
<div align="left">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-9SRabY3yVes/UI5npFWmPxI/AAAAAAAAV6Q/U05y3WHNStE/s1600-h/SAM_0648%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0648" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-JQ_rp9EtLH4/UI5nq-ev7CI/AAAAAAAAV6Y/ORFHoP03ai4/SAM_0648_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0648" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View north from the beach</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-m2JSGickukk/UI5nt9ymhZI/AAAAAAAAV6g/vimLVSxpoEA/s1600-h/SAM_0684%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0684" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-KEoTSP6XZsA/UI5n1G8pdmI/AAAAAAAAV6o/hvYLoQ8d6-o/SAM_0684_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0684" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking south from the cliff (again)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-slGEb82XjZo/UI5n3PmhBfI/AAAAAAAAV6w/a7MiYdg1SYs/s1600-h/SAM_0673%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0673" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-HVKsskVTYmA/UI5n5FgKe4I/AAAAAAAAV64/JwcvIC16bgI/SAM_0673_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0673" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Karen's expert photo of a thermal-riding sea eagle</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-NPaVi4zalbE/UI5n7YerCOI/AAAAAAAAV7A/tqN7VczOR8I/s1600-h/IMG_1551%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_1551" border="0" height="303" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-x7F0MF0VSMo/UI5n9b2oGVI/AAAAAAAAV7I/TDGb9rldGj4/IMG_1551_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_1551" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Now <i>this</i> looks like fun!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div align="left">
It really is an idyllic location – there are other beaches in Kerala, but I can't imagine any being better than Varkala.</div>
<div align="left">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-3FyLfHr0UQY/UI5oJNKG_ZI/AAAAAAAAV7g/0KrxNUScV3M/s1600-h/SAM_0641%25255B4%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0641" border="0" height="223" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Uccjd1v-wWM/UI5oKjFjvfI/AAAAAAAAV7o/f5l1IbshD-I/SAM_0641_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0641" width="600" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset over the Arabian Sea</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div align="left">
Finally, it was time to leave. We rounded off our stay in Kerala with one night in another nice homestay (the Graceful Homestay) in the state capital, Trivandrum, a short train journey south of Varkala. Then it was off to the airport to fly north to Delhi and the Indian Grand Prix.</div>
<div align="left">
<br /></div>
<div align="left">
<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b>Current location: Delhi until tomorrow</b></span></div>
<div align="left">
<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b>Next stop: Agra</b></span></div>
<div align="left">
<br /></div>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17141805589023321371noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3519588895953912370.post-53585421635777064012012-10-29T07:52:00.000+00:002012-10-29T07:54:35.350+00:00The Keralan Backwaters<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">13th-15th October</span><br />
<br />
We left Fort Cochin via the ferry to Ernakulam where we could get the bus to Alleppey. (Or Alappuzha: a lot of Indian places have two names, the mangled English version from the days of the Empire and the more correct Indian spelling. See Bombay/Mumbai, Cochin/Kochi, Calcutta/Kolkata.)<br />
<br />
Apart from getting dodgy directions from our guest-house owner (hint: for buses, go to the <em>bus</em> station) it was all fairly simple, just like Indian buses – hard seats, no windows (just blinds) and rock-hard suspension. Despite the incessant horn-honking and jerky driving style, it's not an altogether unpleasant way to travel. I wouldn't have fancied it so much in the rain though: it would have been a bit stuffy inside with the shutters closed and no cooling breeze.<br />
<br />
We arrived in Alleppey, fought our way past hundreds of rickshaw drivers (and houseboat sellers) and took the short walk to our “homestay” – the Indian version of a bed & breakfast. In our experience, unless you can afford to stay at one of the top hotel chains, homestays are definitely the way to go in India. The mid-budget hotels are a bit of a lottery: frequently badly run, not guaranteed to be clean (and my expectations of ‘clean’ are fairly low these days), and often with a deluded self-image – by that I mean their description of the facilities rarely bears any resemblance to reality.<br />
<br />
The place we'd booked, the Venice Castle, was very nice (and very cheap) – a big clean room, a big clean bathroom with loads of hot water, and apart from an early morning wake-up call from the nearby mosque, very quiet. Breakfast was good too.<br />
<br />
Alleppey was only a stop-off for a trip into the Keralan back-waters. Luckily, our host at the homestay part-owns a houseboat and with his help we managed to get a good price for the night.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-beDtQZgHLTI/UI4uLoZ3otI/AAAAAAAAV1Q/TxFWjjqs6CY/s1600-h/SAM_0491%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0491" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-RnEYHDu0g90/UI4uOGjh0mI/AAAAAAAAV1Y/4RYUCWX6rks/SAM_0491_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0491" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Keralan houseboat, like the one we took</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-fGdhPZtUQDw/UI4uRNdgNBI/AAAAAAAAV1g/NZiouztrlHg/s1600-h/SAM_0504%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0504" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-yKJn3qs2EQk/UI4uTeyrx8I/AAAAAAAAV1o/d_d0BT_31m8/SAM_0504_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0504" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside the houseboat</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We set off at about midday. On the boat, there really was nothing to do but relax and enjoy the tranquillity, gently chugging our way around the backwaters east of Alleppey, watching the locals go about their daily business.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-PjfmUNAbdro/UI4uWMc_ydI/AAAAAAAAV1w/3_IuN0YVY5Q/s1600-h/SAM_0508%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0508" border="0" height="298" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/--ao2Uci551A/UI4uYE5_wWI/AAAAAAAAV14/BrKm3Aps9Ts/SAM_0508_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0508" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vembanadu lake</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-H3N7Tkv5xLw/UI4ubRjGYJI/AAAAAAAAV2A/lgpORlyX1C4/s1600-h/SAM_0529%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0529" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ujufZslXaL0/UI4udizLmXI/AAAAAAAAV2I/VDSsM9slO7o/SAM_0529_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0529" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ice cream shop</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-dt1p9X2J9vM/UI4ugQjsl5I/AAAAAAAAV2Q/UbGY_8YWEqY/s1600-h/SAM_0545%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0545" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Vvbc43ingZU/UI4uisMM2QI/AAAAAAAAV2Y/7rvBCvmyhPw/SAM_0545_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0545" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Locals going about their business</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-UOEQY2W3YP4/UI4ukz4TEmI/AAAAAAAAV2g/d4wkNSSSzxA/s1600-h/SAM_0574%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0574" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-ZATRf2Hbqsg/UI4um2yTeLI/AAAAAAAAV2o/bHOiiqUXdwA/SAM_0574_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0574" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another houseboat</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-3b_XjJJDPpA/UI4upO6I5SI/AAAAAAAAV2w/7j8eF7L6KsI/s1600-h/SAM_0505%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0505" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-J6NqBsc6wVY/UI4uqyg8WgI/AAAAAAAAV24/MH6hRSaUUn0/SAM_0505_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0505" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Other boats on the way out of Alleppey</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
In the late afternoon the views got even more picturesque and just before sunset we berthed for the night at a fantastic spot for photos.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Ap4Wvl3pmvA/UI4uuT1cH5I/AAAAAAAAV3A/-25TSVqb8XA/s1600-h/SAM_0567%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0567" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-aj8gto5gjxM/UI4uwqVrOkI/AAAAAAAAV3I/G0rrwwWMBIY/SAM_0567_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0567" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just chillin'</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-8K3iscRodrk/UI4uzFhphsI/AAAAAAAAV3Q/xZLOnQtMasQ/s1600-h/SAM_0590%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0590" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Io1mR1zm16k/UI4u1PJ6UFI/AAAAAAAAV3Y/HniV8Qq52x8/SAM_0590_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0590" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset over rice paddies</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-3W-9UPu0yR0/UI4u3wiHhBI/AAAAAAAAV3g/1y_2YVKJGns/s1600-h/SAM_0592%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0592" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-5tSuare3X-Y/UI4u5ljlKtI/AAAAAAAAV3o/-mW0nFYwJlg/SAM_0592_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0592" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A local on his way home after work</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
That evening, we were treated to a magnificent thunderstorm, all fun and games until one bolt struck <em>very </em>close to the boat. <br />
<br />
The next morning, nice and rested after a good breakfast (I'm slowly getting used to curry for breakfast), the boat took us back to Alleppey, returning to dry land at about 9am. Then it was a quick rickshaw ride into town and the bus to Varkala.<br />
<br />
Had we not already spent a number of days on the Mekong, we might have been tempted to spend longer on the houseboat. As it was, one night was plenty and a very relaxing and enjoyable night it was too.<br />
<br />
Next up: Surf and sand at Varkala<br />
<br />
<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b>Current location: Delhi until tomorrow</b></span><br />
<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b>Next stop: Agra</b></span><br />
<br /></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17141805589023321371noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3519588895953912370.post-1884664012493938992012-10-22T14:04:00.002+01:002012-10-22T14:04:24.929+01:00Kerala: Fort Kochi and Kathakali<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">9th-13th October</span><br />
<br />
From what we've read, tales from friends and some limited prior experience, India - and Delhi in particular - can be a bit of a culture shock for the uninitiated. For that reason, starting off in the much more relaxed Kerala seemed like a good idea – it's more backpackers and beaches than the hot, sweaty crowds of the big Indian cities.<br />
<br />
We arrived in late evening at Cochin International Airport to be faced with a conundrum: <br />
<ol>
<li>The pre-paid taxi desk is inside the terminal building and only took rupees. </li>
<li>We didn't have any rupees and the only ATM was outside the terminal. </li>
<li>Once you leave the terminal, they don’t let you back in…</li>
</ol>
Travellers tip: when arriving at Cochin airport, either make sure you've already got some rupees or be prepared to sweet-talk the policeman at the terminal gate! One 45 minute, seatbelt-less, white-knuckle taxi-ride later (in a Vauxhall Corsa), we arrived at our guesthouse in Fort Kochi.<br />
<br />
The next morning we had a wander around town to get our bearings. Due to its location, Fort Kochi has been occupied by a the usual mix of sea-faring Europeans: in this case, the British, the Portuguese and the Dutch. The influence is obvious looking at the local architecture. The first thing we noticed however were the Chinese fishing nets - the iconic image of Kerala.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Hs9ksP7wDqs/UIU7G4PHflI/AAAAAAAAVvc/QfXmFAR2EfI/s1600-h/SAM_03723.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0372" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-aTXkZhusDxg/UIU7IoFUkfI/AAAAAAAAVvk/-p6sbZEglzI/SAM_0372_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0372" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chinese fishing nets</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
These huge counter-weighted nets require 4-5 people to operate them, but I suspect the ones in Fort Cochin are more for the tourists than fishing judging by the repeated entreaties from the operators to pose with them for photos.<br />
<br />
<div align="left">
We had four days in town which is plenty of time to see everything. Although it’s part of a larger conurbation (Ernakulam), most of the sights are in and around Fort Kochi, and it’s not very big. In nearby Mattancherry we visited the Dutch palace – worth seeing for its murals and a good introduction to the history of the area – and the Jewish quarter with its old synagogue and maze of streets selling clothes and spices. We picked up some masala tea. In Fort Kochi itself there's the Santa Cruz Basilica and St. Francis’ church which houses the original, but now empty tomb of Portuguese explorer, Vasco da Gama.</div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-yAdwTzL4H4U/UIU7Kt4_-hI/AAAAAAAAVvs/BPiyPo1e7_0/s1600-h/SAM_03794.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0379" border="0" height="404" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Gv9ctwhAEL8/UIU7NC7PE9I/AAAAAAAAVv0/ZZeLPURWTE4/SAM_0379_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0379" width="304" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">St. Francis' church</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Food-wise, we've probably eaten our last noodle: we’re now in India which means it's time for curry and its limitless variations. It’s slightly weird having curry every night (and some lunch-times) – in the UK, this kind of behaviour would be a fast-track to obesity – but things are different in India, in Kerala at least. <br />
<br />
For a start, there’s much less meat. Most of the curries we've eaten have been vegetarian: amazingly fragrant dishes made with potato & cauliflower (aloo gobi), spinach & cheese (palak paneer), lentils (daal) and my favourite, chick pea curry (chana masala). Meat and fish is readily available, but partly because eating meat increases your chances of an upset stomach, and partly because the meat doesn't really add much to the flavour, we've mostly abstained. Having said that, being by the sea, we have had the occasional delicious fish curry. <br />
<br />
Also, the food is much lighter: the rich, yoghurt and cream-based sauces are not as common here (more so in the north of India apparently) and there’s been no cases of our food turning up swimming in ghee. The breads (naans, rotis, etc.) are much thinner and lighter as well. <br />
<br />
Having said all that, there’s little chance of losing any weight since everything is so delicious.<br />
<br />
Ho hum.<br />
<br />
We rounded off our stay in Fort Kochi with a trip to the theatre and a short performance of some Kathakali. I say 'short' because Kathakali plays can last for days and even the shortest stories can last for hours. Luckily, the Kathakali centre in Fort Kochi is geared-up for the tourists so the the performances are slightly briefer, but they do let you in early to see the amazing makeup being applied which can take as long as the show itself.<br />
<br />
The play we saw – more of a scene really – told the story of a green-faced chap (clearly not to be trusted) trying to seduce some other chap's wife. He fails so tries to beat and rape her, but she escapes and tells hubby, who then kills him. It's much like the plot of any episode of Neighbours.<br />
<br />
The actors tell the story entirely by facial expressions and complicated hand gestures. There’s also a narrator who sings the story to the audience with sound effects provided by a couple of drummers.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-WDhHhqs1Kro/UIU7PwpvHyI/AAAAAAAAVv8/XIQEP-lPMmg/s1600-h/SAM_0416%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0416" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-T_ziJ126TyU/UIU7RlafEqI/AAAAAAAAVwE/mGSmbYoFy_Y/SAM_0416_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0416" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Putting on makeup</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-r0E7cBB7NWI/UIU7UMKUbGI/AAAAAAAAVwM/BKm3nmmuj0s/s1600-h/SAM_0428%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0428" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-vYsn-lAQgcU/UIU7WQta8vI/AAAAAAAAVwU/ODzN5lriACY/SAM_0428_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0428" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All the colours are made naturally from stones and plants</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ulEM__K3H4s/UIU7ZbaVWiI/AAAAAAAAVwc/ek0VKpyCfAY/s1600-h/SAM_0465%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0465" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-4qhnZD2tIIw/UIU7bycBS5I/AAAAAAAAVwk/LwhtuxRvBdI/SAM_0465_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0465" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Would you trust this man?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-fYPgttX1Xjc/UIU7eWf9nNI/AAAAAAAAVws/OQELbC078p0/s1600-h/SAM_0470%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0470" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-R5dnLmeTWn8/UIU7gVjmSOI/AAAAAAAAVw0/sAVSNNCnyYY/SAM_0470_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0470" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Indecent proposal</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-U0UO3uTfmxk/UIU7iowowZI/AAAAAAAAVw8/YbAwFug4cjk/s1600-h/SAM_0478%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0478" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-MK5X2UzcR-U/UIU7lb0D_LI/AAAAAAAAVxE/-WXJTvNA9DQ/SAM_0478_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0478" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All the parts are played by men by the way</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-76GWyCB1Xk0/UIU7noDaCGI/AAAAAAAAVxM/Ed_MAUoLbQM/s1600-h/SAM_0482%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0482" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-HKbwHwan2rY/UIU7p6ctXXI/AAAAAAAAVxU/n9m3fHn7P7Y/SAM_0482_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0482" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"I have seen things you people would not believe..." </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
To be honest I'm not a huge theatre fan so I wasn't expecting much. The first 20 minutes – a demonstration of the basic skills, the hand movements and the facial expressions – brought to mind a constipated Kenneth Williams: not a promising start.<br />
<br />
But when the action began in earnest, the music (the narrator singing over a harmonium drone), the drumming and the weirdly silent acting – all delivered with bucket-loads of conviction – combined to be strangely compelling.<br />
<br />
It was very atmospheric: a hugely enjoyable and memorable couple of hours. A must-see if you're ever in Kerala.<br />
<br />
Next up: a trip to the famed Keralan backwaters.<br />
<br />
<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b>Current location: Varkala until tomorrow</b></span><br />
<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b>Next stop: Trivandrum before flying to Delhi on Wednesday</b></span><br />
<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b><br /></b></span></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17141805589023321371noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3519588895953912370.post-39843116974127602502012-10-12T16:38:00.001+01:002012-10-12T16:38:41.631+01:00A long weekend in KL<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">6th-9th October</span><br />
<br />
Been working too hard? Feeling the stress of the 9-5? Bored of the same old routine? What you need is a city break. Using those criteria we wouldn’t qualify but why should we miss out, just because we haven't got 'jobs' or 'stress'. Who makes up these rules anyway?<br />
<br />
Time for a long weekend in Kuala Lumpur!<br />
<br />
In fact we needed to go to KL for good reasons: flying via there was the most cost effective way of getting from Vientiane to Kochi in India. So, rather than limiting ourselves to a few hours at the LCCT (Low Cost Carrier Terminal – as exciting as it sounds), we decided to stick around for a few days and sample some of what Malaysia has to offer.<br />
<br />
First impressions of Kuala Lumpur? For a start, there's no Kualas (and not many Lumpurs neither). Superficially, it looks like just another big Asian city – it reminded me a bit of Bangkok or Hong Kong. Under the surface it was quite different. It’s a very cosmopolitan city: there were the usual number of expat westerners but it’s also home to fairly sizeable Indian and Chinese communities. Also, having spent most of the last few months in the largely Buddhist Mekong Delta countries, it was big change hearing the call of the muezzin and seeing women wearing hijabs - a clear reminder we were now in a Muslim country.<br />
<br />
It’s quite pricey to stay in the centre of town, so we found a hotel a twenty minute metro ride away. The area wasn’t the nicest but it was cheap and convenient, and the view from the metro station (Maluri) was pretty good.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-PJsUqCZXZk8/UHf3SBpVwBI/AAAAAAAAVqA/YDIb2BzHHds/s1600-h/SAM_0358%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0358" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-srVn92ldSIA/UHf3UA1myqI/AAAAAAAAVqI/ssMFhxgQHF0/SAM_0358_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0358" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Petronas Towers from Maluri metro station</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Considering its size, there’s surprisingly little to see and do in KL. We spent a day browsing the stalls at the Central Market and the nearby Petaling Street. Both are worth a visit if you're there but are nothing special really. It’s not a very pretty city, but we did visit a few of the architectural sites worth seeing.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ZKHxNqtveTM/UHf3Wneip8I/AAAAAAAAVqQ/Kira0RUHV_k/s1600-h/SAM_0361%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0361" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-6Q-JFC2Y3Qw/UHf3YGQ0VRI/AAAAAAAAVqY/Vk4ZR0DDDr4/SAM_0361_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0361" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sultan Abdul Samad building</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-8a-4R2McE2M/UHf3aAiRxzI/AAAAAAAAVqg/JZj4GY7hErA/s1600-h/SAM_0360%25255B4%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0360" border="0" height="231" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-GItgh-IqSPA/UHf3b0UeZxI/AAAAAAAAVqo/2uD6RxJjD3o/SAM_0360_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0360" width="554" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Merdeka Square (including cricket pitch!)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Wwmk6KTILrQ/UHf3dmvhkpI/AAAAAAAAVqw/3piIYo6kOAU/s1600-h/SAM_0371%25255B4%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0371" border="0" height="404" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-I9rl3MGevdU/UHf3gCGDnVI/AAAAAAAAVq4/_TTn200udQY/SAM_0371_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0371" width="304" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Petronas Towers</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We decided not to go up the Petronas Towers. It was quite expensive and I've got a rule that I only go up tall buildings if there are at least <a href="http://www.jameshoskin.com/2012/07/guangzhou.html" target="_blank">two fairground rides at the top</a>. The Petronasses had none.<br />
<br />
Just outside the city is the Batu Caves. They're only a 30 minute train-ride from KL Sentral (and only 40p each way) so there’s no good reason not to pay them a visit. They're a series of large limestone caves, halfway up a hill with a collection of Hindu shrines inside. Just be careful of your possessions as the large monkey population will steal anything: food, cameras, or in the case of one unfortunate girl, her cuddly toy!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-iU5fWmhEvzk/UHf3i-GoiwI/AAAAAAAAVrA/KOivPDF1VG8/s1600-h/SAM_0324%25255B9%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0324" border="0" height="423" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-xyJvR5M0PU8/UHf3lDY3JvI/AAAAAAAAVrI/YN6cecAQicQ/SAM_0324_thumb%25255B3%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0324" width="304" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Batu Caves entrance</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-WDj6-E2w7iU/UHf3mzjjOHI/AAAAAAAAVrQ/CC1aHD2xlNw/s1600-h/SAM_0334%25255B4%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0334" border="0" height="404" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-TF2c7wqnngo/UHf3pfGho6I/AAAAAAAAVrY/ib2u0_Q2ulY/SAM_0334_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0334" width="304" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside the Batu Caves</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-L30Fs4nMUf4/UHf3r8i7ToI/AAAAAAAAVrg/tR2WH8FF_ug/s1600-h/SAM_0335%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0335" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-DF-SUUw3gb4/UHf3tUoUVzI/AAAAAAAAVro/uY1Ean8lNrs/SAM_0335_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0335" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside the Batu Caves</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-jZQyKAR0IrY/UHf3vtKFMjI/AAAAAAAAVrw/zBJ22j55T0U/s1600-h/SAM_0336%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0336" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-mvTKxNAk0nE/UHf3xAGWyGI/AAAAAAAAVr4/p8dN6s42nGE/SAM_0336_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0336" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside the Batu Caves</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-hr4MrcuFc2U/UHf3zlRka6I/AAAAAAAAVsA/vlNbiZ69L8k/s1600-h/SAM_0347%25255B4%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0347" border="0" height="404" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-U1M0c47Yb38/UHf33WpC_aI/AAAAAAAAVsI/UorksJ2A2cA/SAM_0347_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0347" width="304" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cute monkey?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Fy-vfY9cnBw/UHf36LQbWaI/AAAAAAAAVsQ/W_3fVmvGMwE/s1600-h/SAM_0350%25255B4%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0350" border="0" height="404" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-ciKSWVE7IxM/UHf38Gw7XOI/AAAAAAAAVsY/tPr-y4vLNQc/SAM_0350_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0350" width="304" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not when he's just stolen your cuddly toy...to eat</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-akHuzeGXz04/UHf3-GYL9SI/AAAAAAAAVsg/VwFX8viLKFc/s1600-h/SAM_0352%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0352" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-EXmhmbSs2uE/UHf4Ab2rlxI/AAAAAAAAVso/JCDEgpkZRcg/SAM_0352_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0352" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of KL from the top of the steps at Batu</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
And that was KL – not worth going out of your way for but if you’re passing through, there’s enough of interest to spend a couple of days there.<br />
<br />
Perfect for a long weekend!<br />
<br />
<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b>Current location: Kochi until tomorrow</b></span><br />
<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b>Next stop: Alleppey</b></span><br />
<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b><br /></b></span></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17141805589023321371noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3519588895953912370.post-29543275353146222262012-10-10T14:33:00.001+01:002012-10-10T14:33:40.324+01:00Ten days in Laos: Luang Prabang and Vientiane<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">27th September-6th October 2012</span><br />
<br />
As per my previous blog entry, we spent our first two days in Laos <a href="http://www.jameshoskin.com/2012/10/the-slow-boat-to-luang-prabang.html" target="_blank">on a boat</a>. The next five days were spent in Luang Prabang. to be followed by three in Vientiane<br />
<br />
Luang Prabang is a UNESCO World Heritage town, so it’s better preserved than a lot of places we've visited. In fact it reminded me a lot of the Japanese towns of Magome and Tsumago i.e. it's all been carefully managed to preserve the old-style character of the place. For example, all of the shop, restaurant and hotel signs were made out of wood - no-one's allowed to ruin things with some tacky neon - which gives the place a very authentic feel, even if it's not!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/--2RXFH9vqck/UHVrae5fV1I/AAAAAAAAVjI/F53dANikS8w/s1600-h/SAM_0250%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0250" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-2z9roa-hAjo/UHVrcZbit_I/AAAAAAAAVjQ/cfo0FBiBMNM/SAM_0250_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0250" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Classic cars and colonial-style houses in Luang Prabang</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Karen had a bit of a cold while we were there so our activities were slightly curtailed. For example, we could have got up at 4.30am to see and take part in the daily ritual of giving alms to the sizeable monk population, but sensibly stayed in bed. We did visit a couple of the local Buddhist temples though.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-bJ0wcSbZOrA/UHVre44NwZI/AAAAAAAAVjY/QYVwM8LqApA/s1600-h/SAM_0233%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0233" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-CU3Ipb6oyxU/UHVrgsd28gI/AAAAAAAAVjg/HVJjEIiz3-c/SAM_0233_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0233" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wat Xieng Thong</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-aViJR_ihHUc/UHVrifCHrWI/AAAAAAAAVjo/m9be0otmXA8/s1600-h/SAM_0218%25255B5%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0218" border="0" height="404" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-lwHr1qJ3nZg/UHVrjy3Rm8I/AAAAAAAAVjw/tvpvNUedrW4/SAM_0218_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0218" width="304" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Frieze!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Also recommended is an evening trip up Mount Phousi to watch the sunset. It’s not that much of a climb - it's just a small hill really - but the views are spectacular.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-3TO8umsvQ3U/UHVrmIJaZOI/AAAAAAAAVj4/8dhy5EdTzgk/s1600-h/SAM_0157%25255B4%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0157" border="0" height="276" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-GhlCX-Iw50M/UHVrny6i1YI/AAAAAAAAVkA/plqJ83uQNiU/SAM_0157_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0157" width="554" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View over Luang Prabang from Mount Phousi</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-vPGuyXXZSag/UHVrqcEjXNI/AAAAAAAAVkI/2LE3b9wLWI4/s1600-h/SAM_0163%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0163" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-lyeraLglD3E/UHVrsZXO-FI/AAAAAAAAVkQ/wH83Ke6ggvQ/SAM_0163_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0163" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another view from Mount Phousi</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-UscI3dZ4m9o/UHVruqXDRRI/AAAAAAAAVkY/hnoYLDwDHZI/s1600-h/SAM_0168%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0168" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-CVH1U9EWQsY/UHVrw3B10eI/AAAAAAAAVkg/ASa0YKrH-n4/SAM_0168_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0168" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yet another view from Mount Phousi</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-V3Uf1pGm-GE/UHVrzfO9jdI/AAAAAAAAVko/aYQPR3SvTac/s1600-h/SAM_0186%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0186" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Y2xtDOZb-UI/UHVr1MLDDnI/AAAAAAAAVkw/4lGDMfSVKHg/SAM_0186_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0186" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset from Mount Phousi</td></tr>
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About 40 minutes outside town there's the Kuang Si waterfall – actually a series of picturesque waterfalls: one big one and lots of little ones. The owner of our guesthouse suggested that hiring a motorbike was the best way to get there. Once again we managed to resist the temptation: no insurance, dodgy roads and reckless local drivers are not a good combination. As it happens you can book a trip for way less than a day’s motorbike hire anyway. We spent a pleasant afternoon walking around the area, walking up to the top of the waterfall and back down again to have a dip in the cold waters. You can jump off one of the smaller falls if you’re daring enough (I’m not) and there's a rope swing, which I was brave enough to try.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-MCvOhhEDcWQ/UHVr3hnwEZI/AAAAAAAAVk4/3-hsfWAIA1c/s1600-h/SAM_0253%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0253" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-0TEDnQ0m4wk/UHVr594dfOI/AAAAAAAAVlA/jbwzP4fWWVw/SAM_0253_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0253" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bear at bear sanctuary at Kuang Si</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-isx8GNERzLc/UHVr86_EMcI/AAAAAAAAVlI/LJwNULPhTao/s1600-h/SAM_0264%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0264" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-PKvt2WEk4yA/UHVr-jKtmkI/AAAAAAAAVlQ/75eOwkjzKyk/SAM_0264_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0264" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kuang Si waterfall</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-hSPcP9mkx1c/UHVsAf5bXBI/AAAAAAAAVlY/VWMODkMYX30/s1600-h/SAM_0268%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0268" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-chgfoESdmbw/UHVsCJt8GaI/AAAAAAAAVlg/AzmrXMTR-dI/SAM_0268_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0268" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taking a dip. No idea who the other three are...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-7vPS6yNvprw/UHVsEW3al2I/AAAAAAAAVlo/HHsr3LM1f6E/s1600-h/SAM_0270%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0270" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-7VcL6SsclMA/UHVsF6Gr9oI/AAAAAAAAVlw/w-BgsSHMHj8/SAM_0270_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0270" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Forgot to take my shoes off</td></tr>
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Luang Prabang is also a good place to go if you like your food. We had a fantastic Laos-style meal at a place called Tamarind one evening: sticky rice, baked fish in banana leaf, stuffed lemongrass kebabs and a selection of Laos dips and crudités.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-l75M9MPhMuo/UHVsIHgFWWI/AAAAAAAAVl4/1iYzFNyF3sw/s1600-h/IMG_1534%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_1534" border="0" height="303" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-3ibGhZqEoZA/UHVsJ7a-S2I/AAAAAAAAVmA/e0J4BCtzcE8/IMG_1534_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_1534" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The food was Laosy (heh)</td></tr>
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Including drinks, this meal was relatively expensive (about £15) so we balanced it out with a couple of dinners at the street food market. There you can fill a plate from a selection of tasty rice dishes, noodle dishes and various vegetable stews, all for just 80p! Meat, fish and drinks are extra but not really necessary.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-3xFeKe_FWj4/UHVsM7JeVII/AAAAAAAAVmI/ckIQOBzbink/s1600-h/IMG_1535%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_1535" border="0" height="303" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-ax-Jq-L0Pzs/UHVsOvHHEkI/AAAAAAAAVmQ/AVKu5w__2Wg/IMG_1535_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_1535" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Street food market in Luang Prabang</td></tr>
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We'd decided before we left Scotland that when leaving Luang Prabang for Vientiane, rather than take the bus, we'd fly. We just didn't fancy the idea of six hours crammed on a rickety bus, careering along windy, potholed roads, teetering on the edge of cliffs and being driven by a mad Laos bus driver. Not that we needed any extra persuading, our decision was reinforced by stories from fellow travellers who'd experienced the white-knuckle route.<br />
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And so it was on to Vientiane. Getting off the plane we took a tuk-tuk into the town centre. Again, the influence from the French colonial days is obvious from the architecture, plus there are numerous European-style coffee and cake shops to prove the point. It was nice to get a proper cup of coffee again.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-AaHMvII1enk/UHVsQ_EA3pI/AAAAAAAAVmY/a4EzhwK3Fts/s1600-h/IMG_1537%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_1537" border="0" height="303" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-5FgeVRjMswE/UHVsSTATnkI/AAAAAAAAVmg/1d1yDYvSqYk/IMG_1537_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_1537" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waiter, I've got hair in my coffee...oh</td></tr>
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So, what’s there to do in Vientiane? Not a great deal, it turns out - unlucky for us as our hostel was the worst we'd stayed in since leaving the UK and we needed a diversion. Sure, there are temples, but we were all templed-out. There’s a stupa or two as well, but if you've seen one stupa… </div>
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What else? There’s a shopping centre which reputedly contains the only escalators in Laos – a tourist attraction for Lao visitors to the capital if you believe the guide-books – and there’s a couple of monuments but that’s your lot.</div>
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In order to keep ourselves busy, we took the chance to try two fruits we'd seen but never managed to lay our hands on – salak and tamarind.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Salak and tamarind</td></tr>
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Salak, or snake fruit, is something we'd first seen in Cambodia and although we swore to try it, we hadn't seen it since. As soon as we saw it in a market in Vientiane, we had to buy a few. The skin, although looking vaguely snake-like, is easy to peel. Inside, is two or three lobes of juicy pale fruit, sometimes with a stone, sometimes not. It tastes sweet-sour, not entirely unlike a mangosteen. Altogether very pleasant.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-xq-D96MeeIk/UHVsX1xMIWI/AAAAAAAAVm4/EfX1dkfoz3Q/s1600-h/SAM_0295%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0295" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-9JBWSyE-4ac/UHVsZazp7vI/AAAAAAAAVnA/wBT8hTOatJA/SAM_0295_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0295" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside a salak fruit</td></tr>
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I'm used to using tamarind as a sour ingredient in Asian food. I didn't realise that you could also eat the fruit raw but only in its sweet form - unfortunately, visually indistinguishable from the sour type. We'd first seen these being eaten in Xi'an in China, but never since. The woody outer skin comes off easily leaving a brown chewy centre, surrounding several inedible seeds. It tastes a bit like a date, a bit like a fig. In fact it most reminds me of fig rolls!</div>
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We couldn’t sit inside eating fruit for three days so we had to get out and about again. To be fair, the monuments are worth seeing. One is a copy of the Arc de Triomphe, except bigger and better – take that France!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-vUT_HxQDBlQ/UHVsbkaGWUI/AAAAAAAAVnI/APF5oBvvcEg/s1600-h/SAM_0278%25255B4%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0278" border="0" height="404" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-iEBYGFlq1IU/UHVsdkcQeTI/AAAAAAAAVnQ/2sC462qI5sQ/SAM_0278_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0278" width="304" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Un dans l'oeil pour les Francais - pah!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Qwn9NBops4s/UHVsfkWaI4I/AAAAAAAAVnY/lwCfsmX2cNM/s1600-h/SAM_0280%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0280" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-I9xMH6tH6IE/UHVshp-bn6I/AAAAAAAAVng/xZ49bKRTIrg/SAM_0280_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0280" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking up the Champs Elysees</td></tr>
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The second is a big statue of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anouvong" target="_blank">Chao Anuvong</a>.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mairman Chao</td></tr>
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It’s down by the Mekong river, which is a pleasant place to wander, especially around sunset. On our last evening, sitting in a rooftop bar, we were treated to a spectacular electrical storm over Thailand. I've never seen so much lightning; there was almost a flash every three seconds. I do love a good storm, especially when I'm safely under cover with a beer in my hand.</div>
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And so our short visit to Laos was almost over. It was finally time to say goodbye to the Mekong and goodbye to our trusty guide book: Lonely Planet’s ‘Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos and the Greater Mekong’. Thanks Suzanne – best Secret Santa ever!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-_Ny1EMkC0eY/UHVsnTHNusI/AAAAAAAAVn4/h7xhxcLL8ak/s1600-h/SAM_0307%25255B7%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0307" border="0" height="416" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-VIoC9ifUwy4/UHVsoxw1noI/AAAAAAAAVoA/aRF8ix7y8ls/SAM_0307_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0307" width="554" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset over Thailand from Vientiane</td></tr>
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Next up, a short stopover in Kuala Lumpur and then, India!</div>
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<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b>Current location: Cochin, India until Saturday</b></span></div>
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<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b>Next stop: Elsewhere in Kerala!</b></span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17141805589023321371noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3519588895953912370.post-55907677850360634962012-10-08T16:15:00.001+01:002012-10-09T03:02:35.087+01:00The Slow Boat to Luang Prabang<span style="font-size: x-small;">23rd-28th September 2012</span><br />
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After leaving the stunning scenery around the Bamboo Nest, we made our way by bus up to the Thai-Lao border at Chiang Khong. Our research had already told us that there were a number of options for getting the boat to Luang Prabang, so we decided to spend a day or two investigating them. We quickly ruled out the ‘fast boat’ (too dangerous) which left us with a couple of variations on the slow boat. We could either take the public boat – cheap but reputedly crowded – or one of the more expensive, but more comfortable options. <br />
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After reading one too many scare stories about the amount of people they cram on to the public boat, and hearing one first-hand account from Sheena and Adam, we plumped for a slightly more expensive trip but one which included some stops at points of interest along the way (run by Nagi of Mekong). <br />
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The boat we chose only runs three times a week (Sun, Wed and Fri) so first we had a couple of days to kill in Chiang Khong. There’s a couple of nice walks you can do along the river and, it being the weekend, we managed to find a bar showing the football: Liverpool vs Man U! To take our minds off the football (and the less said about that game, the better), the bar owner - a big Liverpool fan with tattoos to prove it - had various bar games at our disposal. These included board games, a putting mat (which I was useless at) and best of all, Duelling Hammers!<br />
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“What’s Duelling Hammers?” I hear you say.<br />
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Dead simple: two men, one tree stump, two nails, two hammers and a pile of drink. The first to hammer their nail flat wins. To make it more difficult, we were playing the peen-only variation (we were using tournament-approved cross-peen hammers, since you asked).<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-076169JWOC0/UHLjUm7mn1I/AAAAAAAAVcQ/D39FBKyLFCQ/s1600-h/IMG_1512%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_1512" border="0" height="303" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-MGeN2MfdFIg/UHLjWqtpD3I/AAAAAAAAVcY/SnKzDGJOZ0M/IMG_1512_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_1512" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I just need a couple more drinks to get my eye in...</td></tr>
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We should totally play this game outside pubs in the UK. What could possibly go wrong?<br />
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Having exhausted all the fun to be had in Chiang Khong, it was time to go to Laos. We got up bright and early and were taken by the tour company to the jetty to be whisked across the Mekong and into Huay Xai in Laos. Getting our visas on the other side was quick and easy although it helps to have dollars to hand: for some reason paying in baht or Lao kip is more expensive. We then grabbed some of the local currency and were shepherded onto our boat.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-E6B2vRLnYvM/UHLjYF9z_fI/AAAAAAAAVcg/Xd8RQHAlwXg/s1600-h/SAM_0068%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0068" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Wc1r5hANPLc/UHLjZpgDMOI/AAAAAAAAVco/-VAn5FLZZHU/SAM_0068_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0068" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The seats are all lifted straight out of old minibuses - not as comfy as they look!</td></tr>
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The boats are built for about 40 people; the tour we were on regularly take 20-plus but this time there were only about a dozen of us, including the crew, so there was plenty of space for all.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-EDTllOY87kg/UHLjbL0naBI/AAAAAAAAVcw/TeH6S6lJLvM/s1600-h/SAM_0086%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0086" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-G6ST8s7RQHA/UHLjcPUpPTI/AAAAAAAAVc4/1XdmS6KgPR4/SAM_0086_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0086" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The boat</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
On day one, we stopped mid-morning for a visit to a typical Lao village.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-spF_YDEQVCU/UHLjdevoUlI/AAAAAAAAVdA/St457M4-HCc/s1600-h/SAM_0088%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0088" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-krBKUgyNkGM/UHLjfRQZEnI/AAAAAAAAVdI/FlJ1Kv5RSL0/SAM_0088_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0088" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Small Lao village</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-AlysF1HECno/UHLjhDDrh7I/AAAAAAAAVdQ/fmTXC9kWHWQ/s1600-h/SAM_0089%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0089" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-zfIpr6ZZLqI/UHLjilu3U8I/AAAAAAAAVdY/9X-NmVT6_ag/SAM_0089_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0089" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Village school</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Lunch was served on the boat at around midday. The food was simple but delicious. My favourite was the spicy papaya salad which is fast becoming an addiction of mine: crisp, juicy and refreshing but with a chilli-kick that could fell a shire horse. <br />
<br />
We arrived at Pak Beng quite early at around 4pm. Despite having read various less-than-savoury descriptions of Pak Beng, it’s actually quite nice. One of the perks of booking the trip this was was our hotel was pre-arranged and whoever chose it did a very good job: the view from our balcony was stunning.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-RaHCbRC5gnk/UHLjjyD9tHI/AAAAAAAAVdg/K-k1fQ6OTiM/s1600-h/SAM_0102%25255B4%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0102" border="0" height="234" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-wZF6BWjiUJ0/UHLjlXpDuiI/AAAAAAAAVdo/GdHpOcbM6vE/SAM_0102_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0102" width="554" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of the Mekong from Pak Beng</td></tr>
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About an hour after we arrived, we saw the public boat pull-up next to the jetty. If we wondering whether we'd made the right decision booking the tour boat, any lingering doubts were quickly dispelled as we watched at least 60 people pour off the public boat (designed for 40) and make the dash up the hill to try and get a good hotel.<br />
<br />
The next morning we were up nice and early to find clouds clinging to the surrounding hills in quite a picturesque manner.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-pWqaPK0_dgY/UHLjmirs_lI/AAAAAAAAVdw/v7ftEKBL9Kg/s1600-h/SAM_0107%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0107" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-EAXy8aREqcs/UHLjoib9lTI/AAAAAAAAVd0/ifkInlB0ZIc/SAM_0107_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0107" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Early morning in Pak Beng</td></tr>
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The second day was punctuated by two more stops. First at another Lao village.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-bx3h9WCGbtA/UHLkKg1r6RI/AAAAAAAAVeU/L1ZuDkl2p_o/s1600-h/SAM_0110%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0110" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-bbtOYAsFXNc/UHLkMPu_YbI/AAAAAAAAVec/HfWyTLGMZaY/SAM_0110_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0110" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of the village from the river</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-LDaDmaffcKU/UHLjqOEHj3I/AAAAAAAAVeA/hBPKb0EaV_I/s1600-h/SAM_0121%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0121" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-DvbXPuav2Us/UHLkJIbyo7I/AAAAAAAAVeM/9YkOkFa8Sgo/SAM_0121_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0121" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13.333333969116211px;">The village school</td></tr>
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<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-5u31Ztg6pMI/UHLkNG9a8BI/AAAAAAAAVek/_b-LQMy68r4/s1600-h/SAM_0114%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0114" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-1ndy818k89E/UHLkOmpbOqI/AAAAAAAAVes/EXXdiGUD5Y8/SAM_0114_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0114" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bath time</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-FBPnEAwVlhk/UHLkQF_bALI/AAAAAAAAVe0/0XYCCEaar0E/s1600-h/SAM_0119%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0119" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-fPNQ5mlwLfI/UHLkR9dIe_I/AAAAAAAAVe8/YUNvVsQv8-g/SAM_0119_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0119" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chillies drying in the midday sun</td></tr>
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Our second stop was at the Pak Ou caves, only an hour or so short of Luang Prabang itself. To be honest, they were nothing special, just a couple of medium-sized limestone caves stuffed with Buddha statues. Because they were on our way, it was nice to see them and it made sense to stop. But, as we found out later, you can visit them as a day-trip from Luang Prabang which would have been a bit of a disappointment. They're certainly not worth going out your way for.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-oTSVXyqg29M/UHLkYNBTzCI/AAAAAAAAVfk/ClauYKuq7b0/s1600-h/SAM_0139%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0139" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-sBlmXWeADAE/UHLkZeqm8nI/AAAAAAAAVfs/aI4p9scRvvw/SAM_0139_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0139" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13.333333969116211px;">Entrance to the Pak Ou caves from the river</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-6V_z7t1k8ME/UHLkV0anYAI/AAAAAAAAVfU/4JCq-gBoPxU/s1600-h/SAM_0141%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0141" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-4Dw14gxkjgQ/UHLkXAjVloI/AAAAAAAAVfc/UdfNtcjItHY/SAM_0141_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0141" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Buddha statues in the dark</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-0ht2CJsuRK8/UHLkTNxRMsI/AAAAAAAAVfE/VGL1-q5lheA/s1600-h/SAM_0140%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0140" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-1peQmESuSWo/UHLkUZngmQI/AAAAAAAAVfM/N5OxCyDi_gc/SAM_0140_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0140" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13.333333969116211px;">View across the river from the Pak Ou caves - nicer than the caves themselves</td></tr>
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<br />
Then, finally, we arrived in Luang Prabang.<br />
<br />
If you're considering going to Luang Prabang and if you've got the time, I can heartily recommend taking the slow boat from Huay Xai. If you've got short legs and a teflon bum then I'm sure the public boat would be fine, but I think we got more out of the journey by taking the tour boat. We had the space to properly relax and appreciate the wonderful scenery, and also the opportunity to stop along the way and experience how some of the local Lao villagers live their lives.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-TNzlAkYVx_A/UHLkdDjWS6I/AAAAAAAAVgE/KFhj3Hyx0Mc/s1600-h/SAM_0127%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0127" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-xFtsqOgjKU0/UHLkfWSPdtI/AAAAAAAAVgM/e24-ZEvHA2Q/SAM_0127_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0127" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Life in the slow lane</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-EpUNf9TEHWk/UHLkgpLTMlI/AAAAAAAAVgU/0pVZLWPVk4A/s1600-h/SAM_0133%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0133" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ERQz_4lF-94/UHLkiZ-UL_I/AAAAAAAAVgc/GQtMSsou9Ko/SAM_0133_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0133" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mekong river</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-dWfQ5fUQMNw/UHLkj69F5zI/AAAAAAAAVgk/sH8yJO1kr88/s1600-h/SAM_0145%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0145" border="0" height="229" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-TgZFpIdfyDk/UHLklMA4q5I/AAAAAAAAVgs/G0gnBsfhgfs/SAM_0145_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0145" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of the Mekong from the upper cave at Pak Ou</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-OYZK6kK24Zg/UHLkmtQ96dI/AAAAAAAAVg0/siE3vY_Txek/s1600-h/SAM_0147%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0147" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-GPsTK4CpCYg/UHLkoMFZKJI/AAAAAAAAVg8/fI3qeQtbJYE/SAM_0147_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0147" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heading into the sunset</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-iIWdpsyf8dc/UHLkpfyi01I/AAAAAAAAVhE/pUzt01JC9Qc/s1600-h/SAM_0148%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0148" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ME2YUP1TPEY/UHLkqrqzJKI/AAAAAAAAVhM/vu3UJIQOGQ8/SAM_0148_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0148" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Greyscale hills</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-te29TmeT9lE/UHLkatlSZNI/AAAAAAAAVf0/n5zqM-a3dlU/s1600-h/SAM_0155%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0155" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-PmyJlErCI9E/UHLkbz8rMbI/AAAAAAAAVf8/UItJAmUcrSE/SAM_0155_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0155" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arriving at Luang Prabang</td></tr>
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Next up: Luang Prabang, sunsets and more fun with waterfalls...<br />
<br />
<b><span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;">Current location: Kuala Lumpur until tomorrow</span></b><br />
<b><span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;">Next stop: Kochi, India</span></b><br />
<b><span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></b>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17141805589023321371noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3519588895953912370.post-85867575356649619462012-10-01T09:32:00.002+01:002012-10-01T09:32:23.050+01:00Relaxing at Bamboo Nest de Chiang Rai<span style="font-size: x-small;">14th-23rd September</span><br />
<br />
After waving off my parents back to Bangkok, we had a few more days in Chiang Mai waiting for our Indian visas to arrive. Having had enough excitement for one week, we spent the time relaxing and arranging the next leg on our journey: Chiang Rai.<br />
<br />
With relaxation very much the order of the day, Karen found a great place 30km or so west of Chiang Rai called the Bamboo Nest (or Bamboo Nest de Chiang Rai to give it its full title). We arrived in Chiang Rai by bus at about 4pm and were picked up by the owner, Noi, in his small 4x4, squeezed in like sardines beside the incumbent Kiwi couple. We knew the place was up in the hills but weren't quite prepared for quite how steep the approach was. Lucky it wasn't raining!<br />
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When we finally arrived, shortly before sunset, we were not disappointed.<br />
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What a location!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-YHe85Cn_EEY/UGk9H92canI/AAAAAAAAVYQ/B-VZhLwskSc/s1600-h/SAM_0045%25255B5%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0045" border="0" height="353" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-kHvyZAgpQnA/UGk9Nk2JxeI/AAAAAAAAVYY/iNaXtI3Gt5I/SAM_0045_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0045" width="554" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What a view! That's our hut, by the way</td></tr>
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The place has only been open a few months and is run by the incredibly hard-working Noi and his equally hard-working wife, Nok. There are five bamboo huts perched on the side of the hill and three more on the way. None of the huts have aircon or fans, in fact the only electricity is the solar powered lighting although you can recharge your gadgets during the day at reception. Temperature-wise, it’s not a problem because it’s quite cool at night in the hills. There is a hot shower which was most welcome but the sink had yet to be plumbed in. It's a work in progress!<br />
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At night you’re protected from the local wildlife by a mosquito net, but unfortunately our soap wasn't protected and got stolen twice by the local rat or mouse population – I'm not sure exactly what it was (or why they needed soap) because I never quite caught them at it, despite a 3am torch hunt one night!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-RRWKUEjVT-Y/UGk9XXGt7fI/AAAAAAAAVYg/rOzSCOMQVLo/s1600-h/SAM_0050%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0050" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-53jrViegaao/UGk9erCyNUI/AAAAAAAAVYo/LeDDIx1nzQE/SAM_0050_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0050" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The bedroom</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-fbaC4aVxAmQ/UGk9k_LlZkI/AAAAAAAAVYw/db3jjlNgnfY/s1600-h/SAM_0018%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0018" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Ndil3xPxV44/UGk9paBhKpI/AAAAAAAAVY4/pdIoBUV7KXg/SAM_0018_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0018" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The balcony</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Dmfp-6VP8Bk/UGk90n7fVWI/AAAAAAAAVZA/VutnbWMdEF0/s1600-h/SAM_0022%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0022" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-nXklAhM_3TE/UGk97wlKZiI/AAAAAAAAVZI/TgtaJz1e_lw/SAM_0022_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0022" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Catching up my blogging. I'm not hogging the hammock (sounds rude) - Karen can't use them because they make her seasick</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
As you can see from the photo above, we were sharing our environment with the local wildlife. Noi and Nok have a couple of dogs and a pile of cats and kittens. The big dog (called Khaao which is Thai for ‘white’) is the boss and defends the property. He also pees on your bed if you mistakenly lock him in your hut for the afternoon.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-jhTQi9uZQ-w/UGk-f6laf9I/AAAAAAAAVZQ/3iT3faXlvzM/s1600-h/SAM_0035%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0035" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-0qjSJLDx-Fg/UGk-jata5RI/AAAAAAAAVZY/OgHPBlEFv48/SAM_0035_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0035" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Naughty Khaao</td></tr>
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His partner in crime (Nam Dtaan: Thai for ‘brown’) is just 6 months old and <em>loves</em> play fighting. Most of all he took great delight attacking the colony of kittens, biting their necks and and dragging them around by their ears. Strangely, they didn’t seem to mind too much. I think Brown is going to get his come-uppance once their claws start to come in…<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-xSoWBF_N6h4/UGk-ofj47DI/AAAAAAAAVZg/aLasm8mkUIA/s1600-h/SAM_0030%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0030" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-ke8npTd-vdY/UGk-zmN7pSI/AAAAAAAAVZo/mVO4bIt389M/SAM_0030_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0030" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Biting kittens is very tiring</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-xfT3Dmt5TDM/UGk-8zLJMfI/AAAAAAAAVZw/Lki-DntPKeg/s1600-h/SAM_0034%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0034" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-yKd9BEqqA6I/UGk_BC2x5_I/AAAAAAAAVZ4/JUXzIENUJ98/SAM_0034_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0034" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As is being bitten by dogs</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Nok and Noi run tours for guests that want to get out and about during the day but we decided to amuse ourselves, mostly playing cards, reading, catching up on blogging or just relaxing in the hammock with a glass of Johnnie Walker Red. We did go for a couple of walks (accompanied both times by Khaao – at least up to the edge of his territory), once to a waterfall, which we didn’t find, and once down the hill through the village as far as the main river. The climb back up was enough to make us feel like we weren’t being too lazy!<br />
<br />
In the evenings, the guests would gather in the main reception area for dinner and chat (that's talking, not a French cat). The food was good and so was the company – there was a middle-aged Kiwi couple, an Aussie couple, a Northern Irish couple (who we are still bumping into in Luang Prabang!), a Thai couple, an Israeli family, a lone English girl and a Malaysian mother and daughter – quite a cosmopolitan crowd!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Ne5ohfQHrQE/UGk_LpuBVFI/AAAAAAAAVaA/UEhkwjRQbv0/s1600-h/SAM_0038%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0038" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-9JMQkmfcma4/UGk_SRDbhFI/AAAAAAAAVaI/qCb4rCdepJg/SAM_0038_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0038" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From the left: Petra the German Kiwi, Aussies Tim and Kim, and Karen</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After dinner, we would navigate via torchlight back to our hut, only pausing on the clear evenings to look up at the stunning night sky – no light pollution here!<br />
<br />
To be honest, we could have spent longer there, it was a perfect location and really cheap, but we were as relaxed as we could get and I had a pile of blogs to upload, so it was time to move on. We said goodbye to the dogs (the cats ignored us) and Nok gave us lift down the hill, back into Chiang Rai and to the bus station. <br />
<br />
There was just time for one final, wistful look at the beautiful view.<br />
<div align="center">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-SC0cg5tkPsk/UGk_xpVn2PI/AAAAAAAAVaQ/iC7VZQSs3Qw/s1600-h/SAM_0043%25255B4%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0043" border="0" height="350" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-rnj-Ye9M3gs/UGk_19Ff6eI/AAAAAAAAVaY/NMCGQSMsQqI/SAM_0043_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0043" width="554" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from the reception/dinner area</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Next up: Chiang Khong, pub games with hammers and the slow boat to Luang Prabang.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;">Current location: Luang Prabang until tomorrow</span></b><br />
<b><span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;">Next stop: Vientiane</span></b><br />
<b><span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></b>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17141805589023321371noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3519588895953912370.post-23143571917894084892012-09-29T05:38:00.001+01:002012-09-29T05:38:04.295+01:00New videos uploaded - get them while they're freshIf you're following me on Twitter or Facebook, you'll already have spotted that the new videos have uploaded. The link to my YouTube channel is down on the right side of this page. For those of you too lazy to scroll, here are the direct links:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/user/nojdemo2?feature=mhee" target="_blank">My Channel</a> (watch ALL the videos here)<br />
<a href="http://youtu.be/Riac4IXtgi8" target="_blank">Cruising the Mekong Delta</a><br />
<a href="http://youtu.be/HRm0nBbq4uE" target="_blank">Mekong Delta - Tra Su Reserve</a><br />
<a href="http://youtu.be/fVXwW-_XPXM" target="_blank">Tuk Tuk to Cheoung Ek</a> (near Phnom Penh)<br />
<a href="http://youtu.be/BS1dOywZnjM" target="_blank">Bangkok - Silom Thai cooking school</a><br />
<a href="http://youtu.be/2fXK1Qgdb1Y" target="_blank">Bridge over the River Kwai trip</a><br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sDn9r8sYNpA&feature=plcp" target="_blank">Thai man doing his exercises on River Kwai trip</a><br />
<a href="http://youtu.be/Tvv30mH5yII" target="_blank">Koh Samui</a><br />
<a href="http://youtu.be/ULtXtBgj08g" target="_blank">Chiang Mai elephants</a><br />
<a href="http://youtu.be/s3FMyDgegmE" target="_blank">Chiang Mai waterfall</a><br />
<br />
Enjoy!<br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17141805589023321371noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3519588895953912370.post-28169437699565049522012-09-28T15:56:00.002+01:002012-09-28T15:56:52.872+01:00More videos coming soon...Just a quick note to say that I've got a pile of short videos ready to upload (the first one went up earlier) which cover the last month or so. We're currently in Luang Prabang (which is lovely by the way) but the internet is kind of slow here so it's proving difficult to get them up on YouTube.<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
I'll get some kicked off tonight before I turn in so hopefully by tomorrow they'll have arrived in internet land by tomorrow and you'll have an excuse not to do any work on Monday morning.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Hopefully by then I'll also have a couple more blogs finished and ready to upload. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Don't go far...</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b><span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;">Current location: Luang Prabang until Tuesday</span></b></div>
<div>
<b><span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;">Next stop: Vientiane</span></b></div>
<div>
<b><span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></b></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17141805589023321371noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3519588895953912370.post-47840236883399402462012-09-25T13:13:00.001+01:002012-09-25T15:47:52.858+01:00Chiang Mai – Elephants and Water Sports<span style="font-size: x-small;">10th-14th September</span><br />
<br />
While taking the train is all very well, when you’re on a tight schedule and you need to get from Koh Samui to Chiang Mai, planes beat trains by about two clear days. It’s just as well we did fly because we arrived to reports of severe rail delays due to flooding north of Bangkok. But events were to prove that it was way too soon to be laughing in the face of the water gods...<br />
<br />
We stayed in Chiang Mai for about a week, waiting for our Indian visas to come through, but my parents only had four days. Some of that time was spent relaxing in our nice hotel.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-OBoFknOjSbo/UGGP3we0UWI/AAAAAAAAVPU/HdEwJSUz-f0/s1600-h/IMG_14813.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_1481" border="0" height="303" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-dC94eKZscQE/UGGP51srbCI/AAAAAAAAVPc/Onikz6-hR5s/IMG_1481_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_1481" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fresh coconut water</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-QSPaqFb8Bz8/UGGP8N8uqtI/AAAAAAAAVPk/QCFChaxnuag/s1600-h/IMG_33523.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_3352" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-S4_83Nk6ul4/UGGP-A7Qo9I/AAAAAAAAVPs/GDycu1H3kcY/IMG_3352_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_3352" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Manathai Village hotel</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The main event for us in Chiang Mai was the visit to the BaanChang elephant park, split over two days: day one, the elephants and day two, a walk up to a waterfall and then some white-water rafting.<br />
<br />
There are dozens of elephant parks around Chiang Mai. We chose BaanChang because it doubles as a sanctuary for domesticated elephants (as opposed to wild elephants) and is funded by tourists like ourselves. Apart from a couple of new births, almost all the elephants have had to be bought from the original owners (sometimes costing as much as £50,000!) Sadly, some of these animals have been abused in their previous lives and bear scars from elephant hooks and machetes. Unfortunately, like all domesticated animals, they’re no longer capable of fending for themselves in the wild so BaanChang (which means 'Elephant Home') gives them a safe place to live and work.<br />
<br />
We arrived at the park around 9am and were told to don our blue denim ‘Mahout’ uniforms. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-h-jSM78DRp8/UGGQAjwVt9I/AAAAAAAAVP0/af4EjBZgN5E/s1600-h/IMG_33873.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_3387" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Vx4Yo4glSew/UGGQCoiCY4I/AAAAAAAAVP8/MuvsuQBXIyY/IMG_3387_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_3387" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lookin' good in blue</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A Mahout is what they call the elephant handlers – there’s one permanent Mahout for each animal. The uniforms were dual purpose: to protect us from dirt and scrapes but more importantly, the blue colour is recognised and trusted by the elephants – the last thing you want to do is annoy an elephant. <br />
<br />
Our first job was to give the animals their mid-morning feed – sugar cane and bananas.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-LveoEw29KyY/UGGQFVqmLtI/AAAAAAAAVQE/60WoD4R4GCs/s1600-h/IMG_3365%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_3365" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-38SeMINvnxc/UGGQHUOuOtI/AAAAAAAAVQM/41CED1ahPGE/IMG_3365_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_3365" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Feed me</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-5b3wbJwSu5c/UGGQJ2bGfDI/AAAAAAAAVQU/7OISFlP8r_I/s1600-h/76817_533272016688428_1513139923_n%25255B2%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="76817_533272016688428_1513139923_n" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-87C9RFHft38/UGGQLjfdfJI/AAAAAAAAVQc/bkDwiqudASY/76817_533272016688428_1513139923_n_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="76817_533272016688428_1513139923_n" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Feed me now!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-abk5vtB7mUA/UGGQOTpYdpI/AAAAAAAAVQk/BCX5Ed3U6Ic/s1600-h/SAM_1640%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1640" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-FpjLZOUPatE/UGGQQV-y31I/AAAAAAAAVQs/t7ywj3MDpRQ/SAM_1640_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1640" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A thank you kiss from the baby elephant</td></tr>
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Then it was time for lessons on how to command the elephants. Before you ride them it’s good to know the commands for ‘stop’, ‘go’, ‘left’, ‘right’ and ‘sit down’ ('hao', 'pai', 'kuay' and kick right ear, 'kuay' and kick left ear, and 'non loong', in that order.) Then we all got the chance to take an elephant for a quick trip round the tree to practice what we’d learned.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/--0cdlqdBZvk/UGGQSzUW-sI/AAAAAAAAVQ0/6L5AFDO5rQU/s1600-h/SAM_1644%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1644" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-IUYiSCsuVE8/UGGQUl2pjLI/AAAAAAAAVQ8/4lEHpLT2d9c/SAM_1644_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1644" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Non loong, er, I mean hao!"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-oQSng0gHUpg/UGGQXXrKieI/AAAAAAAAVRE/OdIpipBK_hY/s1600-h/SAM_1658%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1658" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-_uOo2DkvaZ8/UGGQZT8DYqI/AAAAAAAAVRM/AlueRwFEf7M/SAM_1658_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1658" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"I can see my house from up here"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After lunch, it was time to take the elephants for their daily walk through the jungle. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-GhHdYfU-bPs/UGGQcKaCmQI/AAAAAAAAVRU/H8Q1ck-GuJ8/s1600-h/SAM_1670%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1670" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-J4kiPVVwyxc/UGGQeMsBwzI/AAAAAAAAVRc/mdHKp1g79Sg/SAM_1670_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1670" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elephant train</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-vAGMkT1V6mU/UGGQhZmorrI/AAAAAAAAVRk/IZxQVZXQ544/s1600-h/IMG_3382%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_3382" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-XZb-Yujt3GM/UGGQjGTnleI/AAAAAAAAVRs/3QAQN4L8l_s/IMG_3382_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_3382" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hello Mum</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Kz2buVpF5oY/UGGQmbVX-HI/AAAAAAAAVR0/EmghnsQJY2o/s1600-h/SAM_1681%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1681" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-GbO_jJPby5s/UGGQpBt-hvI/AAAAAAAAVR8/Vw74NKhGCHU/SAM_1681_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1681" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mum, Dad and Nellie</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div align="center">
<a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-z6fxMFePS0U/UGGQroSfJrI/AAAAAAAAVSE/KtFxh3RF9Oc/s1600-h/SAM_1693%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img alt="SAM_1693" border="0" height="184" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-YIY_oL1Z-C8/UGGQtOE-LHI/AAAAAAAAVSM/T3ywLwBO0-g/SAM_1693_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1693" width="244" /></a><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-QB2MRdWQvRw/UGGQvTrnpRI/AAAAAAAAVSU/jVbd5Y2M3-I/s1600-h/SAM_1694%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img alt="SAM_1694" border="0" height="184" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-hhw0TcbNeDw/UGGQw_yKb_I/AAAAAAAAVSc/iGKPEKVnNAY/SAM_1694_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1694" width="244" /></a><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-iXMVXms_ZH4/UGGQzGrbRoI/AAAAAAAAVSk/9_qLm2lUazY/s1600-h/SAM_1695%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img alt="SAM_1695" border="0" height="184" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-CUm1cHUdsRU/UGGQ085kpzI/AAAAAAAAVSs/O0BF5QNbzTE/SAM_1695_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1695" width="244" /></a><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-D9RwYfT47O0/UGGQ3OP2EXI/AAAAAAAAVS0/IcSg4tEmHqU/s1600-h/SAM_1696%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img alt="SAM_1696" border="0" height="184" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-GCY3w-hCpkM/UGGQ42ke_yI/AAAAAAAAVS8/qVnwQLzCCC4/SAM_1696_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1696" width="244" /></a></div>
<div align="center">
How to get on an elephant - easy!</div>
<div align="center">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-SsJdWZApS-w/UGGQ7eZgzaI/AAAAAAAAVTE/zu746-KCrd8/s1600-h/IMG_3392%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_3392" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-K8-G5FwTGv8/UGGQ9LHljmI/AAAAAAAAVTM/2o6gXqx6Oe0/IMG_3392_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_3392" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trekking through the jungle</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
If you’re wondering why there are no photos of Karen on an elephant, it’s because she opted out. Apparently she used to work in a cake shop in Nuneaton when she was a teenager and had a bad experience with some buns and an elephant that wouldn’t take no for an answer. She’s not trusted one since.<br />
<br />
Sad but true.<br />
<br />
Finally, after an hour or so gallivanting through the forest, the elephants needed a drink and a wash. A Mahout’s work is never done.<br />
<div align="center">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-76obdlrc8ts/UGGQ_nfgQeI/AAAAAAAAVTU/6oFrWoTGrGU/s1600-h/SAM_1705%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1705" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-5Cro7F9d91k/UGGRBFHLSOI/AAAAAAAAVTc/Taa_hv7TDOc/SAM_1705_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1705" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Washing the elephants</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-gk4dfVc-4t4/UGGRDUgdM0I/AAAAAAAAVTk/0M9r32l1bew/s1600-h/SAM_1707%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1707" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-oXwc344CzkA/UGGRFt_JD-I/AAAAAAAAVTo/Dk3qVLclGVk/SAM_1707_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1707" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Remember to clean behind the ears</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-_umPkDBESEY/UGGRH61_0WI/AAAAAAAAVT0/ywzBjKZIwJ0/s1600-h/IMG_3398%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_3398" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-iq3h8RiiMAw/UGGRJw2Li6I/AAAAAAAAVT8/pr0QBznrHMw/IMG_3398_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_3398" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bath time's over</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-bjPrkyLvg6Y/UGGRMDXmrVI/AAAAAAAAVUE/pxyYEpyhyts/s1600-h/304008_533277466687883_419745543_n%25255B2%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="304008_533277466687883_419745543_n" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-gbgcn0F4tzM/UGGROHQqfBI/AAAAAAAAVUM/-Tv6rIWSCoA/304008_533277466687883_419745543_n_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="304008_533277466687883_419745543_n" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Perfectly balanced</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Getting close to and spending some time with these magnificent beasts was a truly wonderful experience. They’re huge animals – you really get a sense of their raw power when you’re sitting on the back of one – and yet they’re very graceful and have distinct personalities. It’s hard not to get completely enchanted by those huge eyes and long eyelashes!<br />
<br />
After we’d showered, we had a delicious dinner and as the sun set, gathered round the campfire for songs, magic tricks, dancing and laughter fuelled by some vicious-tasting rice spirit (which got better as the night went on…) These Mahouts sure know how to party.<br />
<br />
Before we all retired to our rooms, our hosts brought out some floating lanterns for us to release into the night.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-T69p-QGCMMk/UGGRQelrsJI/AAAAAAAAVUU/CqG9BgazbjA/s1600-h/IMG_3404%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_3404" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ev2XezNZ2nU/UGGRRzYfrZI/AAAAAAAAVUc/vAp3RL9OKdg/IMG_3404_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_3404" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dinner at BaanChang</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-JK4ReNSavgc/UGGRUDn4sJI/AAAAAAAAVUk/UKjpL4S7vLQ/s1600-h/IMG_1499%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_1499" border="0" height="303" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-w_FjJuTCzJE/UGGRVoe6qII/AAAAAAAAVUs/CFLKsQ1yqpc/IMG_1499_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_1499" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fly, fly!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Then next morning, after breakfast, we were bundled into the back of a jeep for our ‘adventure’ day. It turned out to be more of an adventure for me than I’d imagined.<br />
<br />
The morning’s activity was a hike up to a waterfall. It was slightly more challenging than we’d expected due to the fact that the waterfall feeds a river, which the path followed and at various points, crossed. Normally this wouldn’t be a problem for a young and fit specimen like myself but I’d only brought a pair of Crocs (or cheap Chinese copies) to wear on my feet. These had no grip. This was fine stepping on rocks and sand, but some of the crossings were on wet logs which for me might as well have been sheet ice. <br />
<br />
I was 90% across one particular log when my left foot slipped. “Not a problem,” I thought as I fell, “I’ll just stick out a leg and stop my fall in this no-more-than-shin-deep water.” Shin-deep turned out to be James-deep.<br />
<br />
I went completely under.<br />
<br />
Luckily I’d had the foresight to wear my swim shorts that morning so after rescuing my bag and avoiding being swept downstream, I clambered out with nothing hurt but my pride.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-isRTabIUuG4/UGGRYA0l7dI/AAAAAAAAVU0/MGfjCn1RvnU/s1600-h/IMG_3452%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_3452" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-t1i62OscSwI/UGGRZyiW2lI/AAAAAAAAVU8/W8d7Xyug5Nw/IMG_3452_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_3452" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I didn't slip on <i>this</i> log</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-z0w3tFv0IKY/UGGRdFgQebI/AAAAAAAAVVE/Qs5LUWxPP4Q/s1600-h/IMG_3429%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_3429" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-y2V1IvItTXI/UGGRetivn6I/AAAAAAAAVVM/Mb2tmzeknPY/IMG_3429_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_3429" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walking to the waterfall</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-wSiqXBumhaU/UGGRhrsI1LI/AAAAAAAAVVU/iEZ7qf4w828/s1600-h/IMG_3441%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_3441" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-fAiSZYb561U/UGGRjZCkFYI/AAAAAAAAVVc/Ny-fEjbvoYE/IMG_3441_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_3441" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walking to the waterfall</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div align="left">
Although I was now soaked from head to toe, I bravely carried on. I guess I'm just that kinda guy. </div>
<div align="left">
<br /></div>
<div align="left">
When we got there, the waterfall was well worth the effort.</div>
<div align="left">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-YjKHH9D2BEw/UGGRl7nY2uI/AAAAAAAAVVk/X5MeattGAzY/s1600-h/IMG_3454%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_3454" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-DFnD_H168e0/UGGRnwsGtrI/AAAAAAAAVVs/IXoLNZ3MdyM/IMG_3454_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_3454" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On a hot day, the breeze and spray from the falls was most welcome</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-SgJTY1WwL9w/UGGRqRamMvI/AAAAAAAAVV0/NlTQi9gSxWg/s1600-h/IMG_3457%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_3457" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-wM6i9Bx0spY/UGGRsKDCwyI/AAAAAAAAVV8/I-nJsY07e7s/IMG_3457_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_3457" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Now I'm wet</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I somehow managed to make it back down without falling again. I wasn’t safe yet - the water gods weren’t done with me. After we had lunch it was time for the white-water rafting…<br />
<br />
Apparently, September is the best time of year to go rafting in Chiang Mai, because the monsoon season guarantees the best white-water conditions. In hindsight, perhaps not the best time to try the sport for the first time. The first bit of water was exciting, but nothing too strenuous. Because the waters were so high, they made us disembark and walk between jetties because one section was just a bit too mental. I should have noted the warning signs. The second section was slightly more challenging, but nothing too difficult until our boat captains steered us straight into our first medium-sized wave.<br />
<br />
Completely unprepared for it, I was unceremoniously <strike>pinged</strike> <strike>pung</strike> launched out the boat like a champagne cork. Suddenly I was experiencing white-water rafting ‘sans-raft’ which is quite exhilarating, let me tell you. Unless you’re my wife and parents, who were treated to the distressing sight of their husband and eldest son disappearing (albeit briefly) under the frothing waves.<br />
<br />
Luckily, due to the recent rains, the river was quite deep, so I wasn’t in much danger of hitting any rocks. Although it felt like longer, within seconds the boat captains had brought the raft around and I was being hauled back aboard by them with the help of my Dad. Panic over!<br />
<br />
Kept hold of my paddle though.<br />
<br />
For the record, I’d like to state now that I hold the water gods, whoever they might be in the highest esteem and if they ever got the impression in the past that I was somehow mocking them, then I unreservedly apologise. Point taken.<br />
<br />
Back to Chiang Mai and we made sure the next day was explicitly excitement-free. Then, finally, it was time to wave good-bye to Mum and Dad.<br />
<br />
I think they enjoyed their holiday – it was a bit hectic as we’d packed loads in, but it was lots of fun and it was great to share a piece of our travels with them. <br />
<br />
Next time we’ll do something a bit less exciting, I promise!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-5S2Zx3irz0s/UGGRuW7XrBI/AAAAAAAAVWE/Ar2obfrJPj8/s1600-h/IMG_3460%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_3460" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-res_ysfV3r0/UGGRwBWlqbI/AAAAAAAAVWM/hawWZ_4Vt7Q/IMG_3460_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_3460" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Queen of the jungle</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-N-ssq65ErVE/UGGRzRNyptI/AAAAAAAAVWU/of849LDVEAg/s1600-h/560551_533277003354596_1040171003_n%25255B2%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="560551_533277003354596_1040171003_n" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-UKQxXC-201M/UGGR1EEVSfI/AAAAAAAAVWc/hoYya4W_sPg/560551_533277003354596_1040171003_n_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="560551_533277003354596_1040171003_n" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">King of the jungle (and Dad)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b>Current location: Chiang Khong until tomorrow</b></span><br />
<div>
<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b>Next stop: Laos and the slow boat to Luang Prabang</b></span></div>
<div>
<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b><br /></b></span></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17141805589023321371noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3519588895953912370.post-52038635657381119532012-09-24T04:25:00.001+01:002012-09-24T04:25:12.092+01:00Bangkok and Koh Samui<span style="font-size: x-small;">30th August-10th September 2012</span><br />
<br />
Taking advantage of our newly acquired economies of scale, we were able to take a taxis from Siem Reap to the Cambodian–Thai border at Poipet and then on to Bangkok for not much more than the cost of taking the bus. The benefits include not having to wait for the rest of your fellow passengers on the other side of Thai customs and being taken directly to your hotel in Bangkok. <br />
<br />
We had four days in Bangkok. We began with a cruise up the river on the river-bus, getting off at the Grand Palace. Karen and I had already seen the Palace on a previous visit so we left my parents to it while we sorted out some passport photos and train tickets. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/--Pdq2Jup8Vw/UF7SIDNLbPI/AAAAAAAAVCg/WicWPld4X64/s1600-h/IMG_29903.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_2990" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-5B-rhU6mXXc/UF7SJnpezrI/AAAAAAAAVCo/qQRQ6q2AIoY/IMG_2990_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_2990" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wat Arun</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-idp02sBC-iA/UF7SLp0ER5I/AAAAAAAAVCw/80bsw-GfUL0/s1600-h/IMG_29863.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_2986" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-R0EZyO2hou4/UF7SNoMjdiI/AAAAAAAAVC4/g6wkPOPoa3Y/IMG_2986_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_2986" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bangkok river boat</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-rqrx7-B-5us/UF7SQLm-SwI/AAAAAAAAVDA/kIJMR-KfNXQ/s1600-h/IMG_29973.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_2997" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-EFzBVJMWoS8/UF7SR5ivUsI/AAAAAAAAVDI/cFYJ9j5TNZA/IMG_2997_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_2997" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wat Phra Kaew (next to Grand Palace)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div align="left">
Their visit was cut short however when security guards started asking everyone to leave. On further questioning they were allowed to stay, as long as they sat down and kept quiet. Mystified, they complied only to be treated to a visit from the Queen of Thailand who was there as part of her birthday celebrations. Unfortunately they weren’t allowed to take photos – this was the best they could get.</div>
<div align="left">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-QZDe6ZZYZAM/UF7SUoX5yWI/AAAAAAAAVDQ/72tQnWuX3n8/s1600-h/IMG_30233.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_3023" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-PRmmX72fOUE/UF7SWuBDp9I/AAAAAAAAVDY/oK42xEG9efo/IMG_3023_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_3023" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It started <i>pouring </i>with rain shortly after this photo</td></tr>
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<div align="left">
The next day was fairly relaxed, we went to the weekend market at Chatuchak for a couple of hours and that was plenty. Good job too because I’d earlier agreed to accompany my Dad on a day-trip to the Bridge over the River Kwai. I didn’t realise it at the time, but the train leaves at 6.30am from Bangkok station so it was an early night for me.</div>
<div align="left">
<br /></div>
<div align="left">
So, while my Mum and Karen spent Sunday reading, having lunch and getting pampered at a local spa, my Dad and I were up with the larks and off to Burma (almost). After leaving Bangkok, the train goes through Kanchanaburi, crosses the river Kwai (which, incidentally, had to be renamed as the famous bridge didn’t cross the actual river Kwai but a different river – not a problem until tourists started arriving and asking questions…) before finally ending up at Nam Tok. First stop though was at Nakhon Pathom to visit a large Buddhist stupa. And breakfast!</div>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-uBsXHbwq7mk/UF7SYqO9HMI/AAAAAAAAVDg/WdnkJ03ilTw/s1600-h/SAM_14803.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1480" border="0" height="400" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-8bCpv0H2UTQ/UF7SZ0_ZCmI/AAAAAAAAVDo/QZxTq8vT4zQ/SAM_1480_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1480" width="301" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stupa at Nakhon Pathom</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-bfM71y9z8Jw/UF7Scfe81vI/AAAAAAAAVDw/4TDsWmdeuxM/s1600-h/SAM_14883.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1488" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-d9PKEGLDOKs/UF7SeMrex-I/AAAAAAAAVD4/wul9fJI9jUg/SAM_1488_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1488" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thai man doing his morning exercises outside the stupa</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-DwgMbpeUaec/UF7SgEMyyvI/AAAAAAAAVEA/mBdJyJUE2t8/s1600-h/SAM_14893.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1489" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-hpPwWzgrXH0/UF7ShtUddQI/AAAAAAAAVEI/WXyOj5Fh7Vw/SAM_1489_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1489" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Half a chicken on a stick - these were <i>good</i></td></tr>
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<div align="left">
Then, it was on to Kanchanaburi, and shortly beyond it, the bridge itself.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-uCRDE0zsyVA/UF7Sj3YaehI/AAAAAAAAVEQ/am7LdZg9Wjk/s1600-h/SAM_15143.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1514" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-oQlq0B8a0Lg/UF7SlTSv3pI/AAAAAAAAVEY/LmYl3lbaiHE/SAM_1514_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1514" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dad driving the train backwards</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-7ArbvxDN37Y/UF7Sns5xi1I/AAAAAAAAVEg/41NgEkYDzTE/s1600-h/SAM_14953.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1495" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-YtGuFe_J45c/UF7SpD_i1AI/AAAAAAAAVEo/IlBzOFSJN48/SAM_1495_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1495" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Bridge over the River Kwai</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-M2qcLQJOwMg/UF7Sre0k7aI/AAAAAAAAVEw/UKSctzYxLIo/s1600-h/SAM_14983.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1498" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-_xEa9DAvS6M/UF7StR-zMlI/AAAAAAAAVE4/stLKBiwkol4/SAM_1498_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1498" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dad on the bridge</td></tr>
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The journey continued along a combination of seemingly endless straights, winding around cliffs and rivers, the line finally ending at Nam Tok where there was an old locomotive, a waterfall you could swim in (we forgot our trunks), and lunch.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-p2UK3YwCZRo/UF7Sy5EKjHI/AAAAAAAAVFQ/TfxLcHsTV_o/s1600-h/SAM_15743.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1574" border="0" height="400" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-XMqBu3UMaDQ/UF7S00olM9I/AAAAAAAAVFY/dF8hjp2N3zI/SAM_1574_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1574" width="301" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dad in his element</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Yf67hd01bAY/UF7S3A7MQuI/AAAAAAAAVFg/6SMx3YNljY0/s1600-h/SAM_15763.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1576" border="0" height="400" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-1auRqf3rEr8/UF7S4k0KUoI/AAAAAAAAVFo/aul8wOZdppw/SAM_1576_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1576" width="301" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waterfalls and pools at Nam Tok</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-8C5UAtnqqkw/UF7S6yf3rtI/AAAAAAAAVFw/_rrlD2NwX-w/s1600-h/SAM_15783.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1578" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-G1McQqvgRDY/UF7S8h6aRBI/AAAAAAAAVF4/xgiPNQHw2D0/SAM_1578_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1578" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yummy Tom Yum Goong</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-2UCG4KjAOzM/UF7S-vVfzcI/AAAAAAAAVGA/umnf1BPDgf0/s1600-h/SAM_15893.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1589" border="0" height="400" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Pl9QrVhgNjE/UF7TACIR6nI/AAAAAAAAVGI/hOm1hGjFeJw/SAM_1589_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1589" width="301" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">'Can I have some too?'</td></tr>
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Then, all we had to do was take the same train back to Bangkok. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-BaGqhnfAPCg/UF7TDCiBS7I/AAAAAAAAVGQ/UpWgpbYMbRg/s1600-h/IMG_31713.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_3171" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-OCU7NOnRWRA/UF7TFLSZhVI/AAAAAAAAVGY/vDNd_hl4llE/IMG_3171_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_3171" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">'Heylp, heylp, somebody save me...'</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-VxdYgeXQqtE/UF7THXiRe0I/AAAAAAAAVGg/dS3XwyowlAA/s1600-h/IMG_31843.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_3184" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-PgOb4WjJMaU/UF7TI1zgKwI/AAAAAAAAVGo/phc2RARiidQ/IMG_3184_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_3184" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">'Betcha can't stand with your legs like this...!"</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-kANa6hFrglk/UF7TLfEkRjI/AAAAAAAAVGw/qjubmtPoAMg/s1600-h/IMG_31923.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_3192" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-j5FXMChYtIU/UF7TNHM1x0I/AAAAAAAAVG4/PtNdiMdOl1o/IMG_3192_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_3192" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">'I'll take that bet'</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-CUjQ3RZCCDk/UF7TPIX0eqI/AAAAAAAAVHA/69QTkLB7sMg/s1600-h/IMG_31973.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_3197" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-EiSQahx-ahw/UF7TQiFKqtI/AAAAAAAAVHI/pHrUC14y5IE/IMG_3197_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_3197" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waiting for the train</td></tr>
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We got back to Bangkok at about 8pm – a long day, but a good day. Also, a total bargain at only 120 baht (£2.40) per ticket - about 20p per hour! I'll have to watch the film/read the book now.<br />
<br />
After all that excitement we needed a day off and spent it wandering around Silom, having lunch and sharing a couple of bottles of wine - a rare treat for us in Asia. On our final day we'd booked a cooking class at the Silom Thai cooking school, the very same one that Karen and I went to on our first trip to Thailand four years ago. The class was every bit as good as we remembered.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-CT2x_LCS4rU/UF7TS-itFdI/AAAAAAAAVHQ/_3MbAEhy0-A/s1600-h/SAM_16113.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1611" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-8hTr-yF3vj4/UF7TUr_-sVI/AAAAAAAAVHY/k9Rs6171fJU/SAM_1611_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1611" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Goong, our teacher for the day</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-ak-ZMxbm7Mk/UF7TWyaUNoI/AAAAAAAAVHg/IwKcUhppc8A/s1600-h/SAM_16153.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1615" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-WsiY1_tII8s/UF7TYgsGZ1I/AAAAAAAAVHo/GOjeg0gWFaE/SAM_1615_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1615" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thai herbs and spices</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-8R3Nbu9x13U/UF7Tai0lgeI/AAAAAAAAVHw/FYRMHy1hW70/s1600-h/SAM_16003.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1600" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-SmQ9uUjtgfU/UF7TcOHdy1I/AAAAAAAAVH4/2hU1JxTBu-Q/SAM_1600_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1600" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Hoskins</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-ReBrE4CpPJg/UF7TeBeqN-I/AAAAAAAAVIA/365YcCmfX1I/s1600-h/SAM_16033.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1603" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-VvISAOwqK9A/UF7TfpElgAI/AAAAAAAAVII/LJbCZxTrSuU/SAM_1603_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1603" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dad with his tom ka gai ingredients</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-ydT6MOi9U5o/UF7TiWRfvcI/AAAAAAAAVIQ/ASAAPkoMIWU/s1600-h/SAM_16063.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1606" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-tWF-RH_7Pbc/UF7TkE0v7GI/AAAAAAAAVIY/k8wvigQAmu8/SAM_1606_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1606" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hang on, who's that guy on the left?</td></tr>
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We cooked red curry, fish cakes, glass noodle salad and chicken with cashew nuts but my favourite as always was the tom ka gai – chicken with galangal in coconut soup. So simple to make yet so very, very tasty.<br />
<br />
That evening we all boarded a sleeper train to Koh Samui. Toilets aside, these were the cleanest and most comfortable trains we’d been in in Asia. For example, the blindingly white sheets were still warm from being freshly pressed when they were brought to our cabin. Luxury!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-GdlEEOE6Dk0/UF7TmSETMDI/AAAAAAAAVIg/3Ml-CQrDqg0/s1600-h/IMG_32353.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_3235" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-QloI5EX9R-8/UF7Tn-lvgeI/AAAAAAAAVIo/Yj34KhM9di8/IMG_3235_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_3235" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fresh sheets on the sleeper train</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-QRDRbVCgsyc/UF7TprrG8-I/AAAAAAAAVIw/WNkHOzvhv6E/s1600-h/IMG_32323.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_3232" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-BXzmAkxfcu8/UF7TrHAG-QI/AAAAAAAAVI4/Dtx6YrDrfmA/IMG_3232_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_3232" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Should I put beer in this glass?</td></tr>
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As per usual when I’m on a sleeper train, my bladder decided to wake me four times during the night. Shouldn’t have had that beer before bedtime.<br />
<br />
We arrived in Surat Thani fairly well rested. Luckily, Karen had had the foresight to pre-book tickets for the bus connection to the pier and then the ferry ride to Koh Samui itself. She also had the foresight to take some motion sickness pills and just as well because the sea was very choppy so thankfully no repeat of the <a href="http://www.jameshoskin.com/2012/07/macao.html" target="_blank">trip to Macao</a>!<br />
<br />
Our hotel was literally right on the beach (Mae Nam beach in the north),really quiet and extremely relaxing. All we did was spend the days sunbathing, drinking coconut smoothies, reading and swimming (dodging the occasional shoal of jellyfish!) while the evenings were spent playing cards (canasta) and eating at some of the many beach-side restaurants. <br />
<br />
Oh, and I also decided it was time for my parents to try some durian.<br />
<br />
<div align="center">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Jo37aZgrMxo/UF7TtI9TVFI/AAAAAAAAVJA/khLUfdt5lhE/s1600-h/IMG_14746.jpg"><img alt="IMG_1474" border="0" height="142" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-P33_MYQ_Gyw/UF7Tu-Pf1WI/AAAAAAAAVJI/8sL3g5v-1Qw/IMG_1474_thumb3.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_1474" width="189" /></a><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-6pCypmg6tOk/UF7foaM_QGI/AAAAAAAAVKw/mbPaax_091I/s1600-h/IMG_14757.jpg"><img alt="IMG_1475" border="0" height="142" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-kGQLc27Ch6s/UF7fpxP6LMI/AAAAAAAAVK4/7BngWy6KjIo/IMG_1475_thumb4.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_1475" width="189" /></a><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Xrasdhpwe6A/UF7fsFT7uDI/AAAAAAAAVLA/IQGZXfAYZ0Y/s1600-h/IMG_14767.jpg"><img alt="IMG_1476" border="0" height="142" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-vnW6Kxw2oHk/UF7ftd_L_cI/AAAAAAAAVLI/Uskw2BtbuWQ/IMG_1476_thumb4.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_1476" width="189" /></a><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-MREY4tBeEBg/UF7fv5v7IeI/AAAAAAAAVLQ/Anxky8mTFak/s1600-h/IMG_14717.jpg"><img alt="IMG_1471" border="0" height="142" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-ChNOG6Bmkwc/UF7fxvbFSpI/AAAAAAAAVLY/7UFmS4nwWoY/IMG_1471_thumb4.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_1471" width="189" /></a><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-U1zCWhWF2pg/UF7fz1GHoXI/AAAAAAAAVLg/xS_IxTZYzSU/s1600-h/IMG_14734.jpg"><img alt="IMG_1473" border="0" height="142" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-0U17flPDOyU/UF7f1VXkfhI/AAAAAAAAVLo/aGOP2pgQoXw/IMG_1473_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_1473" width="189" /></a><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-ufBJenQHWgM/UF7f3jy210I/AAAAAAAAVLw/CBp-b0eEH00/s1600-h/IMG_14724.jpg"><img alt="IMG_1472" border="0" height="142" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-6gbB7x7Uq44/UF7f5PDs_kI/AAAAAAAAVL4/XhSAXh0GZcQ/IMG_1472_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_1472" width="189" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Durian goes down a storm with Mum and Dad</span></div>
<br />
Here are some photos to make you jealous!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-9RckOobFdUs/UF7f6zjznwI/AAAAAAAAVMA/v-HuMCa9nck/s1600-h/IMG_33263.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_3326" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-_5xReXB4VsQ/UF7f8V_9gLI/AAAAAAAAVMI/EpXSYG-74b0/IMG_3326_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_3326" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The warmest sea I've ever swam (swum? swimmed?) in</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-TgaPcDUE4Wk/UF7f-iYYsAI/AAAAAAAAVMQ/9x__OsFhqAo/s1600-h/IMG_32543.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_3254" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-1pQR_SMllIo/UF7gASnk7MI/AAAAAAAAVMY/MBGdIpCl4dw/IMG_3254_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_3254" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coconut smoothies - that's my 'Mmmm, that's good' face</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-0jcTCsZjQqo/UF7gCw8I4JI/AAAAAAAAVMg/zN_Q7OQBddg/s1600-h/IMG_32813.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_3281" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-aRI_AVk8IBo/UF7gETCU4kI/AAAAAAAAVMo/oXTfXRakllA/IMG_3281_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_3281" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from the bar with Koh Pha Ngan in the distance</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-mte-rbGpaus/UF7gGminLJI/AAAAAAAAVMw/RC6n59LG-1c/s1600-h/IMG_32873.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_3287" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-U2wibWb1irc/UF7gH8Cf7zI/AAAAAAAAVM4/ietsGVHOsx4/IMG_3287_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_3287" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View along Mae Nam beach</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-nzbk_Yrz8OA/UF7gKsS3GhI/AAAAAAAAVNA/xPAqWz0LQa4/s1600-h/SAM_16313.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1631" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-96x3kBBKq8U/UF7gMRs1wVI/AAAAAAAAVNI/jOP-nVyL5eA/SAM_1631_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1631" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beach hut (not ours sadly, we were a whole 10 metres further back)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-IEnNtVfyaX8/UF7gOerUPLI/AAAAAAAAVNQ/D1c836hnFtI/s1600-h/SAM_16263.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1626" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-7JlTxo0lY9U/UF7gP_hJNWI/AAAAAAAAVNY/wMyFoJbJ6GY/SAM_1626_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1626" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This dog spent hours sitting in the sea staring into the water looking for crabs</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-EySPesBtLLk/UF7gSPA8USI/AAAAAAAAVNg/1w0N0ZPY4rk/s1600-h/SAM_16304.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1630" border="0" height="202" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-HHsKtye_oR0/UF7gTVEJdoI/AAAAAAAAVNo/ybtjVFYzYKY/SAM_1630_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1630" width="600" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Look! That dog's still there!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It was truly a tropical paradise.<br />
<br />
I wish we could have stayed longer but there was more fun to be had up in Chiang Mai. Make sure you don't miss that one...<br />
<br />
<b><span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;">Current location: Chiang Khong</span></b><br />
<b><span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;">Next stop: Laos</span></b><br />
<br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17141805589023321371noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3519588895953912370.post-75216096351535450172012-09-23T11:51:00.000+01:002012-09-24T02:43:09.033+01:00Angkor Wat, Siem Reap and an amazing 40th birthday meal<span style="font-size: x-small;">23rd-30th August</span><br />
<br />
We arrived in Siem Reap by VIP bus. From our experiences around Asia, VIP is the same as any normal bus, just more expensive for the tourists. This was the exception – the first bus I’ve ever been on with working Wi-Fi!<br />
<br />
We had a few days before my parents arrived so, much to the consternation of our hotel and tuk tuk driver, Angkor Wat would have to wait. Instead, we busied ourselves the only way we know how: crazy golf!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-LD-L_nYssqs/UF7Pd-sqFII/AAAAAAAAU7g/PlT5vfZGL0E/s1600-h/SAM_13073.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1307" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-0_ufr1q0bUQ/UF7PfbF6bCI/AAAAAAAAU7k/owRq0xqcX-0/SAM_1307_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1307" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pick a hole, any hole</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
To be honest, there’s not much to do in Siem Reap apart from Angkor Wat, unless you’re into your clubbing in which case Pub Street will cater to all your needs. Luckily our hotel was nice, so we could just relax by the pool.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-4UbWyv7uuQI/UF7PhwCtGgI/AAAAAAAAU7w/kp0aPUfOROo/s1600-h/SAM_13053.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1305" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-csqQfDyIw3w/UF7Pji_msyI/AAAAAAAAU74/R34XkJ5nUto/SAM_1305_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1305" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The pool (sometimes I think my captions need work)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Finally, <strike>the wrinklies</strike> Mum and Dad arrived and after an early night to allow them to recover from the jet lag, it was off to the temples.<br />
<br />
Although everyone knows the site as Angkor Wat, it’s actually just one of dozens of sites in a temple complex spread over dozens of square miles. You could easily spend four or five days exploring them all but it’s quite possible to get a good look a the most important sites in a single day so that’s what we did.<br />
<br />
Since there were four of us sharing, we managed to hire a private guide for the same price as we would have paid to be on one of the big tour buses. We were picked up nice and early – you can pay extra to be there for dawn but in the rainy season the sun is never guaranteed. Our tour was designed to visit all the main sites leaving Angkor Wat itself until the very end.<br />
<br />
A large part of the temple complex is dominated by the site of the ancient city of Angkor Thom. Built in the 13th century, at it’s height it held around 1 million people back when London could only manage 50,000 or so. Our tour started at the main gate, it’s causeway flanked by 54 gods on the left and 54 demons on the right, took us to various smaller temples, the Elephant Terrace, the Terrace of the Leper King, the Temple of Ta Prohm – which was the location apparently for the Tomb Raider movie, a bit lost on me as I've not seen it – and finally to Angkor Wat itself. <br />
<br />
Anyway, I’m not writing a tour guide here so if you want to know more then you can check the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angkor_Wat" target="_blank">articles on Wikipedia</a>.<br />
<br />
Here’s some photos.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-1bRhdTpngD0/UF7PlrkDSkI/AAAAAAAAU8A/SgZPqFwOHjE/s1600-h/SAM_13203.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1320" border="0" height="400" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-T7CkG4Sg5FA/UF7PnHePZUI/AAAAAAAAU8I/9tw2HiBH4-o/SAM_1320_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1320" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Angkor Thom main gate causeway - gods...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-hXrZm6g33PY/UF7PpciUnII/AAAAAAAAU8Q/9Pjvm2pnoXc/s1600-h/SAM_13223.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1322" border="0" height="400" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-OUdm9fV3FVE/UF7Pq6JnXJI/AAAAAAAAU8Y/5kDoQsonn4k/SAM_1322_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1322" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...and demons</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-DNmpBpot6JY/UF7PtkEHNnI/AAAAAAAAU8g/s3VREYQBAkU/s1600-h/SAM_13233.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1323" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-PNWSnfD75Vc/UF7Pvu3cDhI/AAAAAAAAU8o/f7EHRjNIXx4/SAM_1323_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1323" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Angkor Thom south gate</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-_zeQOMoswKk/UF7Py2Y-OpI/AAAAAAAAU8w/fmprz-eAL-I/s1600-h/SAM_13303.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1330" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-N2SHMlMHevo/UF7P0hh3AtI/AAAAAAAAU84/2ckMRrbf9xI/SAM_1330_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1330" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Us in front of the Bayon temple</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-YFpIhExkIAw/UF7P2ySlXNI/AAAAAAAAU9A/kk2KPJS6OBc/s1600-h/SAM_13533.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1353" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-00J4D8PekNE/UF7P4tGJfxI/AAAAAAAAU9I/pNoifWYWe2E/SAM_1353_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1353" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of 216 faces in Prasat Bayon (and Dad)</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ELcOS7jtc_8/UF7P6wYCJFI/AAAAAAAAU9Q/l6aKRhmNO6k/s1600-h/SAM_13663.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1366" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Mhxl10fJh6s/UF7P8nXjmwI/AAAAAAAAU9Y/MmboI_gZoXM/SAM_1366_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1366" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Steep stairs up the Baphuon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-FksbAkdRu_Q/UF7QFNEnEsI/AAAAAAAAU9w/d9xE9g4PMA0/s1600-h/SAM_13833.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1383" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-ri794FlZQ0c/UF7QHHCo81I/AAAAAAAAU94/nz4lPhOq0_o/SAM_1383_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1383" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some other temple - there's just so many...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-5QqCts85WK8/UF7P_tCAzhI/AAAAAAAAU9g/ZuXSGGNy2PQ/s1600-h/SAM_13763.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1376" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-lQJcRBvz--4/UF7QC1Q7G1I/AAAAAAAAU9o/dv4qtJ0CLR4/SAM_1376_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1376" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from the Baphuon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-i5QUvMwsUPM/UF7QJlIwT4I/AAAAAAAAU-A/TEenyGR-ycM/s1600-h/SAM_13873.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1387" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-eIoJMl9PcMs/UF7QLcnNgbI/AAAAAAAAU-I/ctlrw1fEgug/SAM_1387_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1387" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Statues around the Terrace of the Leper King</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-eUHMnK0EO6A/UF7QNZ2HDOI/AAAAAAAAU-Q/HuzG0TFIwu0/s1600-h/SAM_13993.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1399" border="0" height="400" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-QjV5M15LpM0/UF7QPFZNFlI/AAAAAAAAU-Y/C2P91B9X3aM/SAM_1399_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1399" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ta Prohm temple being eaten by a tree</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-dYfRLcRBSW8/UF7QRYOkmvI/AAAAAAAAU-g/TXydesXDEwY/s1600-h/SAM_14023.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1402" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-fKy_BDn28e0/UF7QS-3tI-I/AAAAAAAAU-o/_y069BXjNkc/SAM_1402_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1402" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking up one of the towers in Ta Prohm</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Ds9PEE99NTY/UF7QUwXRPLI/AAAAAAAAU-w/H7-8zxDnoP0/s1600-h/SAM_14033.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1403" border="0" height="400" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-07nYjBTZnII/UF7QW_EuEzI/AAAAAAAAU-4/4S3rHjh7HQU/SAM_1403_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1403" width="301" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Location from Tomb Raider in Ta Prohm</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-g7Iv-8104TU/UF7QgjLehBI/AAAAAAAAU_g/hQG8az6dgwc/s1600-h/SAM_14173.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1417" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Am0grRgNSeQ/UF7QicKk9dI/AAAAAAAAU_o/ASPt4z4SWzU/SAM_1417_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1417" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ta Prohm</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-zpIB_1dbCg0/UF7QkZfHxgI/AAAAAAAAU_w/dFbXDABK_o8/s1600-h/SAM_14263.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1426" border="0" height="400" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-QBPIPzR3fZ4/UF7QliFjIVI/AAAAAAAAU_4/54x6Scr2xBA/SAM_1426_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1426" width="301" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Corridor in Angkor Wat</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-PT7ba-pH6mQ/UF7QnQSb6rI/AAAAAAAAVAA/PJHbobpCuNY/s1600-h/SAM_14393.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1439" border="0" height="400" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-077IJCHnCDo/UF7QouTahwI/AAAAAAAAVAI/s4arQbbIOL8/SAM_1439_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1439" width="301" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Angkor Wat tower</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Y7NgQNSL-Co/UF7Qq61BoFI/AAAAAAAAVAQ/EFjxwOIzBlk/s1600-h/SAM_14403.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1440" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Lzl0Apv9nMo/UF7QsrxQMPI/AAAAAAAAVAY/qhO861KlRQ8/SAM_1440_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1440" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thunder clouds looming looking south from Angkor Wat</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-fEzQqjgj1IE/UF7QvWjpCgI/AAAAAAAAVAg/3yGvSOkV6Rw/s1600-h/SAM_14483.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1448" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-f2PmXpRj0UM/UF7QxsQvDYI/AAAAAAAAVAo/sy-3oVT6cX0/SAM_1448_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1448" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stairs up to Angkor Wat</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-AHgOlPwfE-A/UF7Q3lUEJhI/AAAAAAAAVBA/iGEnMjVt7HA/s1600-h/SAM_14563.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1456" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-YHOjCoCtc_s/UF7Q5nc14BI/AAAAAAAAVBI/NvYHNPeIQXE/SAM_1456_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1456" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approach to Angkor Wat</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-1U-4otGRL_c/UF7Q7nUlSLI/AAAAAAAAVBQ/c_OdsC1MTbI/s1600-h/SAM_14603.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1460" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-gv7hAJw8qjc/UF7Q99ZWiFI/AAAAAAAAVBY/deGQic2hqAQ/SAM_1460_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1460" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Angkor Wat reflections</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
Our trip to the temples just happened to coincide with my 40th birthday which certainly made it a day to remember. We weren't done there though: before they arrived my Mum and Dad insisted that we book a meal to celebrate – money no object! Lucky for them, it’s hard to spend too much on food in Siem Reap. Lucky for all of us I managed to find the place I did.</div>
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The <a href="http://www.cuisinewatdamnak.com/" target="_blank">Cuisine Wat Damnak</a> restaurant is just outside the main part of Siem Reap. Run by a French couple (he’s the chef, she’s the maître d’), they specialise in French style cooking using the best of the local ingredients. It was one of the best meals I’ve ever had, almost Michelin star standard and a about a quarter of the price. Go before it gets too famous!</div>
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We all started with a Holy Basil Martini which was as good as it sounds. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-sqeeMGWGqw0/UF7RDvqvKGI/AAAAAAAAVBw/Rb0QVH9QSPM/s1600-h/IMG_06466.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0646" border="0" height="404" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-vlmOZaTbkEI/UF7RFM0JNjI/AAAAAAAAVB4/pDFRe4uD7gc/IMG_0646_thumb3.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0646" width="304" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">So good I drank half before I remembered to take a photo</td></tr>
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They only serve two options, Tasting menu 1 or 2 which change weekly depending on what's in season. We went for number 2 and were not disappointed.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-KrT9X4nKBhM/UF7RHLBfixI/AAAAAAAAVCA/OGZGwB0UhqM/s1600-h/IMG_06503.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0650" border="0" height="400" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Sqiw2idEePw/UF7RIWvNj2I/AAAAAAAAVCI/yMbgHf8DGOc/IMG_0650_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0650" width="301" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tasting menu 2</td></tr>
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Every dish was perfectly cooked and full of amazing flavours. The stand-out dish was probably the least impressive-sounding – the braised minced duck. So good I could have eaten it twice!</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-1fzAKogorDw/UF7RLOlDRpI/AAAAAAAAVCQ/Ohd0u-6aCQg/s1600-h/IMG_06393.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0639" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-l2ImPv_yvNc/UF7RMc7Lb8I/AAAAAAAAVCY/KRkx6m76_Nw/IMG_0639_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0639" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Braised minced duck with coconut and dry chilli, puffed rice and local crudites</td></tr>
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A perfect end to the most memorable birthday.<br />
<br />
<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b>Current location: Chiang Khong</b></span><br />
<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b>Next stop: Laos</b></span><br />
<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b><br /></b></span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17141805589023321371noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3519588895953912370.post-24242494777022850222012-09-23T11:06:00.000+01:002012-09-23T11:06:12.522+01:00Phnom Penh, Choeung Ek and S21<span style="font-size: x-small;">17th-23rd August 2012</span><br />
<br />
<i>Well, I promised I'd catch up with my blogging and four days in the hills around Chiang Rai was the perfect opportunity. I'll be uploading the next few posts as fast as my current internet connection will allow so expect them to come thick and fast.</i><br />
<br />
One of the plusses of taking the <a href="http://www.jameshoskin.com/2012/09/a-tale-of-two-tours-part-2-mekong-delta.html" target="_blank">Mekong Delta tour</a> was it finished in Chau Doc, which just happens to be the setting off point for the fast boat up the Mekong to Phnom Penh. <br />
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Our guide, Anh, saw us off from the jetty at 7.30am and we were off. The trip took about 6 hours in total but that included two fairly lengthy stops, one to leave Vietnam and the second to enter Cambodia. The boat was pretty comfy and we even got a little lunchbox including the worlds smallest banana.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-7gT7zxQQPt8/UF7Mpa4mgwI/AAAAAAAAU2Q/Z8pIJUOBKKY/s1600-h/IMG_05713.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0571" border="0" height="400" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-QfHlr4ND6Ws/UF7MrGJDytI/AAAAAAAAU2Y/q0C8-cHAmmQ/IMG_0571_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0571" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This banana is very small Dougal...</td></tr>
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Much better than a hot and bumpy bus ride! <br />
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We were dropped off at the wharf in the middle of Phnom Penh to be greeted by dozens of tuk tuk drivers. I’ve since got used to hearing their call at every turn: “Tuk Tuk, sir?” I find the best response is to nod solemnly and reply, “Cheesy biscuits.” <br />
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After a short tuk tuk ride, we arrived at our hotel to find that no other than Elton John had stayed there!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-2QxA0HuNKQ0/UF7MunEYlcI/AAAAAAAAU2g/RuZ0FBUrLT0/s1600-h/IMG_06103.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0610" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-bIQNQQvDXPk/UF7MwuHDzwI/AAAAAAAAU2o/6JV8uCvBhis/IMG_0610_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0610" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mmmm...random capitals and a redundant apostrophe - where's Bernie Taupin when you need him?</td></tr>
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When I asked, the owner told me he had no idea who Elton John was until he’d left and a minion gave him this photo. Still, I guess it's a mixed blessing being a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gary_Glitter#Cambodia" target="_blank">famous English pop star in Cambodia</a>.<br />
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Phnom Penh is markedly different to anywhere we've been previously. It’s a little more…edgy. It’s got the air of a frontier town about it. There’s not a great deal to see around town, there’s a Buddhist temple on the only hill (which we walked around), and the Royal Palace (which we didn’t) and that’s about it.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-nDIGfFeWn9o/UF7M0FHR4sI/AAAAAAAAU2w/ASDYov2lAhQ/s1600-h/SAM_12413.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1241" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-dkZHqlWEdJM/UF7M2NDtKhI/AAAAAAAAU24/Y6R_XQLsWbY/SAM_1241_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1241" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wicker statue of seven-headed Naga in front of Wat Phnom</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Lutg6J9ukDI/UF7M47mt-rI/AAAAAAAAU3A/UZwxlwNOIKw/s1600-h/SAM_12473.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1247" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-MFzGKrrCEU4/UF7M67rsetI/AAAAAAAAU3I/DmgzSb3t4a0/SAM_1247_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1247" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Karen's still making new friends</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Yyp5vOkZm5I/UF7M9DprItI/AAAAAAAAU3Q/0DjUqNpg5WM/s1600-h/SAM_12483.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1248" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-mao3_fQGO4I/UF7M-UNhBUI/AAAAAAAAU3Y/ZwZoFPB3QAE/SAM_1248_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1248" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Phnom Penh railway station - just needs a railway</td></tr>
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Wherever you go in Phnom Penh, there are reminders of Cambodia’s recent, bloody past, be it razor-wire and bullet holes on buildings or the constant offers from tuk tuk drivers to take us to the Tuol Sleng Museum (or S21) or the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek. It’s too large a part of the country’s history to completely ignore, so we started with S21.<br />
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S21 was the Khmer Rouge’s codename for their detention centre in Phnom Penh. It used to be a school but was converted into a place of torture and murder. Of the thousands that entered, only a handful left alive. It’s been left pretty much as it was found when the Vietnamese army liberated Phnom Penh.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-bJxwbC2qRFA/UF7NA__b4zI/AAAAAAAAU3g/jtGXAUY23OU/s1600-h/SAM_12513.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1251" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-q4Tq1KRznYM/UF7NCuHBLWI/AAAAAAAAU3o/uqAXUzNIfhM/SAM_1251_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1251" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stone cells in S21</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-D1pe_ZKutDw/UF7NE_CP6HI/AAAAAAAAU3w/sSMqcnoH0-I/s1600-h/SAM_12523.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1252" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-L7dyhsqEyGc/UF7NGfP_ZWI/AAAAAAAAU34/VLDP79QgxZk/SAM_1252_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1252" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stone cells in S21</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-FaZ2nXgxU-k/UF7NIsDj8dI/AAAAAAAAU4A/vMPdZEu85qU/s1600-h/SAM_12553.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1255" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-8HtOZvp0PoA/UF7NKFT1WhI/AAAAAAAAU4I/1bxuBGiD9Ew/SAM_1255_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1255" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Line of cells</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-KXxA3Az1nEI/UF7NM75KGpI/AAAAAAAAU4Q/ocRK_m3nGJs/s1600-h/SAM_12563.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1256" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-pHKWWs2CqVk/UF7NOa_BIFI/AAAAAAAAU4Y/7Grl4bgxWcs/SAM_1256_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1256" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of courtyard</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-5bYMc4BSlAI/UF7NQUmlwUI/AAAAAAAAU4g/vR00lpKwL-8/s1600-h/SAM_12593.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1259" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-UMKBLjRLPAg/UF7NRx88-uI/AAAAAAAAU4o/Xf6pUe-pgFA/SAM_1259_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1259" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wooden cells</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-rRRx9l9D36o/UF7NTwZ9djI/AAAAAAAAU4w/-EmeJM0RVFI/s1600-h/SAM_12603.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1260" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-388Aekz4RyM/UF7NVdlkS0I/AAAAAAAAU44/L_xZOpH-Yrc/SAM_1260_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1260" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Interior of wooden cell</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-P0yp5GOZzA8/UF7NXhFfFMI/AAAAAAAAU5A/0Y3v6U2csNI/s1600-h/SAM_12643.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1264" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-vZMUeNSGTtk/UF7NZoZuhPI/AAAAAAAAU5I/gGfce-OXGsY/SAM_1264_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1264" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detention block in S21</td></tr>
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Most disturbing of all were the cells where the most recent victims were discovered – just bed frames, scraps of clothing and stained floors. </div>
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I didn’t take any photos of those.</div>
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A visit to S21 is usually paired with a visit to the closest of the infamous ‘Killing Fields’ at Choeung Ek. Two such trips in one day was too much for us so we went the following day. </div>
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Choeung Ek is a very pleasant 30 minute tuk tuk ride south of Phnom Penh. There’s nothing remarkable about the site itself, but what happened there, and at hundreds of other sites in Cambodia between 1975 and 1979 shouldn’t be forgotten. I’m not going to give you much history of the killing fields of Cambodia – there are plenty of other places you can look at that do a far better job than I could (<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Killing_Fields" target="_blank">Wikipedia is a good place to start</a>.) I haven’t got many photos to show you either as taking pictures largely didn’t seem appropriate.</div>
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After paying at the gates, you are given an audio guide that talks you through the various areas in the camp. It is estimated that over 30,000 Cambodians were killed and buried here, mainly it seems for being perceived as a threat to the ruling Khmer Rouge, or sometimes, just for being related to such a person. Although many of the mass graves have been exhumed, many are still untouched. Scraps of clothes and bones regularly work their way to the surface, indeed, as we were making our way around, a fellow tourist pointed downwards to where a tooth was lying by the side of the path. It’s all pretty harrowing, none more so than the “Killing Tree” where, in order to save bullets, small children were murdered. </div>
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In the centre of the site, they’ve built a large stupa to commemorate the dead. Inside more scraps of clothing from the victims and hundreds of human skulls – a very visual reminder of what happened.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-j9lHYAQfREo/UF7NcfOqiEI/AAAAAAAAU5Q/Xg05NFV777k/s1600-h/SAM_12993.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1299" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Q5z5hNaKeaQ/UF7NeHG9k8I/AAAAAAAAU5Y/k48_WCqBvE8/SAM_1299_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1299" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stupa at Choeung Ek</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-tHYT0UcUeu8/UF7NgFaMgII/AAAAAAAAU5g/rZ2ClHw5DUo/s1600-h/SAM_13013.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1301" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-H1Mah6z2DcY/UF7NiLin9II/AAAAAAAAU5o/r1XACb0oumo/SAM_1301_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1301" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Victims' remains inside the stupa</td></tr>
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Although we found both S21 and Choeung Ek disturbing and upsetting, I think it’s important that any visitors to Cambodia also visit sites such as these. If these kinds of events are not recognised and remembered and then the chances of them re-occurring again in the future or other parts of the world are surely increased. Sobering stuff.<br />
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Reading the last few paragraphs may make it seem like our time in Phnom Penh was all a bit depressing, but we did have time for some fun as well. If you follow Karen’s Facebook feed, you’ll already know about her attempts to rescue a helpless kitten.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-bAdicinm46Y/UF7NoR3VRrI/AAAAAAAAU6A/QIm05ufoXrg/s1600-h/IMG_06063.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0606" border="0" height="400" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-PR5EwVPHOfk/UF7Np2A1MNI/AAAAAAAAU6I/VF3K2-Rlqcg/IMG_0606_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0606" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You should have seen the fleas coming off this thing (the kitten)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-9n5emD9K33c/UF7NksU4FeI/AAAAAAAAU5w/zJEYnyqCbEc/s1600-h/IMG_06013.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0601" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-XcQVzjAE730/UF7NmdwYJSI/AAAAAAAAU54/l_FIlk9yX0U/IMG_0601_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0601" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tiny, tiny cat</td></tr>
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It all turned out fine when we realised the kitten was getting fed by almost every soppy tourist that frequented the particular bar where we found it.<br />
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Also, on the recommendation of Sheena and Adam who were in these parts a few years ago, we took a Cambodian cooking class. Cambodian cooking doesn’t appear to be as advanced as it’s neighbours in Vietnam and Thailand, but we were assured that was because the Thais and Vietnamese had stolen all their ideas from the Khmers who used to rule the entire peninsular back in the day (see the upcoming Angkor Wat post for details!)<br />
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We made spring rolls, a fantastic banana shoot salad, sticky rice with mango and the national dish of Cambodia, fish amok, which is similar to a red curry.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-UN6z6j5UVIY/UF7NsBeAuaI/AAAAAAAAU6Q/FMrL3UYeQss/s1600-h/SAM_12693.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1269" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-L67q_VZqSAg/UF7NtrPfeHI/AAAAAAAAU6Y/vqJFdWxkg-4/SAM_1269_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1269" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grating taro for the spring rolls</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-fCfsBgtpekE/UF7Nw-3DgII/AAAAAAAAU6g/mKUnj9BbKOE/s1600-h/SAM_12753.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1275" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-7FiOdoMw1AQ/UF7NydKLvWI/AAAAAAAAU6o/yHkwWzf6mgY/SAM_1275_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1275" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hard at work pounding the red curry paste</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-hzeahdQ2Ihg/UF7N0d49QnI/AAAAAAAAU6w/-ABD5-BNXWg/s1600-h/SAM_12763.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1276" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-OUI3M1fAcvo/UF7N13DQnaI/AAAAAAAAU64/RPWVCOB1foY/SAM_1276_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1276" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fish amok, served in a banana leaf</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-KkjixVcteqk/UF7N3jfYQ-I/AAAAAAAAU7A/t8qxzEpaJmk/s1600-h/SAM_12803.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1280" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-lz-klQi1GfY/UF7N5LGpu1I/AAAAAAAAU7I/wCHinVSAHIs/SAM_1280_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1280" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Banana shoot salad</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-d2Ic-_5sSXA/UF7N7J1OHRI/AAAAAAAAU7Q/JF_1_UJDWWk/s1600-h/SAM_12863.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1286" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-KgT2-7TvW18/UF7N8mzwdcI/AAAAAAAAU7Y/oEfUyhRT7fU/SAM_1286_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1286" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mango with sticky rice and coconut caramel - as you can see, I'm no food artist</td></tr>
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And, that was it for Phnom Penh. Definitely worth a visit!<br />
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Next up, Siem Reap, Angkor Wat and the arrival of my parents for a whistle-stop tour of Cambodia and Thailand.<br />
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Stay tuned...<br />
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<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b>Current location: Chiang Khong</b></span><br />
<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b>Next stop: Laos</b></span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17141805589023321371noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3519588895953912370.post-24217950967790057892012-09-17T11:14:00.001+01:002012-09-17T11:14:27.871+01:00Why so long between posts?If you’ve been following what we’ve been up to on the blog, you’ll have noticed the frequency of posts drop to zero over the past month. There’s a few reasons for this but essentially, they all boil down to laziness!<br />
<br />
To be fair – and someone has to – putting together each post takes upwards of two hours. That includes copying the photos from phones and camera to the laptop, reviewing and deleting the good ones, writing the text, adding the best photos, uploading the post (this step alone can take an hour if the internet connection is slow), and finally, fixing the layout (I’ve not found a reliable WYSIWYG html editor, certainly not Windows Live Writer), adding captions, spell-checking and proof-reading.<br />
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And I make it look so effortless! <img alt="Smile" class="wlEmoticon wlEmoticon-smile" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-xT2jFogIwKs/UFb1A_I0vsI/AAAAAAAAUz4/n7JjvM7qeuc/wlEmoticon-smile%25255B2%25255D.png?imgmax=800" style="border-bottom-style: none; border-left-style: none; border-right-style: none; border-top-style: none;" /><br />
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The last post – <a href="http://www.jameshoskin.com/2012/09/a-tale-of-two-tours-part-2-mekong-delta.html" target="_blank">the Mekong Delta tour</a> – was a monster. I reckon it took closer to 6 hours to complete, over several days. During that period, my parents joined us for three weeks so a lot of my energy and spare time was taken up entertaining them (subtext: it’s all their fault).<br />
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To be honest, there really is no-one to blame but myself. And now I’ve made a rod for my own back because there’s a pile of stuff to tell you about. There's our Cambodian adventures in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, entertaining my parents in Bangkok, Koh Samui and Chiang Mai and a very eventful trip to see the elephants including my brushes with death (much to the consternation of my wife and mother).<br />
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Luckily our next stop in Chiang Rai is four days of doing not very much so I should be able to catch up. Our guesthouse has no internet so expect a flurry of posts in about a week’s time when I come back online.<br />
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In the meantime, here’s a quick taster of what’s coming up.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-0NA-RoB_qhE/UFb1C5hUmTI/AAAAAAAAU0A/87u5JiYhxso/s1600-h/SAM_1572%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1572" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-7xiVLZMV23M/UFb1EeVOMgI/AAAAAAAAU0I/h27iSnB99I0/SAM_1572_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1572" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All aboard</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-jk7IehRDs4Q/UFb1GgRpb_I/AAAAAAAAU0Q/blP6Nzs0h7U/s1600-h/IMG_3452%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_3452" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-uWnqwyJkwE8/UFb1ILPpN-I/AAAAAAAAU0Y/FqNS2gbCR2U/IMG_3452_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_3452" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Careful, don't fall in...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-m7AsbdGJBWc/UFb1KGuZPtI/AAAAAAAAU0g/cI4peaK-TMg/s1600-h/IMG_3365%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_3365" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-HGSBOAdIBm4/UFb1LqarXfI/AAAAAAAAU0o/fIHwyi6qazo/IMG_3365_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_3365" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Watch your fingers!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Lu447tjPJ_4/UFb1OHk4WZI/AAAAAAAAU0w/O1IiOkqxk7w/s1600-h/IMG_3274%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_3274" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-tfCg929gfjE/UFb1PqsK_zI/AAAAAAAAU04/t5LbEUZ3Pqs/IMG_3274_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_3274" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ah, peace and quiet</td></tr>
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Oh, and in other news, my dead iPhone miraculously sprang back into life last week. Karen spotted a mobile phone repair shop in Koh Samui, so I dug it out thinking I’d take it in for repair. As I’d done every few days at first, but not for the past month, I plugged it into the power to see if it was working and hey presto!<br />
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I’m guessing this means it was a battery glitch and all I had to do was wait until it was completely dead – something I could have done months ago had the iPhone had a removable battery…<br />
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So, if you used to play me at Words With Friends, expect an invite – I’m back!<br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17141805589023321371noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3519588895953912370.post-37043811493623492892012-09-17T08:04:00.002+01:002012-09-17T08:04:26.219+01:00A Tale of Two Tours: Part 2 - The Mekong Delta<span style="font-size: x-small;">15th-17th August 2012</span><br />
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While the tour of the Cu Chi tunnels could be described as cheap and cheerful, the two-day Mekong Delta trip definitely was not. It was organised by Karen as semi-surprise present for my 40th birthday. And what a great present it turned out to be!<br />
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We were picked up at 7.30am from our hotel by our guide Anh and whisked off in a private car (driven by Mr. Nam). While the cheaper coach tours travel by the main highways, our route took us via the local roads which meant loads more to see and more stops.<br />
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Our first destination was a local market. Not many foreigners come this way so there was lots of curious stares and even some impromptu Vietnamese lessons from the seafood sellers. We also got to choose whether we wanted chicken or prawns for lunch.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-qYHks6FYGHw/UFa5a7tReKI/AAAAAAAAUlc/bBo-mgYYPoI/s1600-h/SAM_10483.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1048" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Aba3cEFILcQ/UFa5cJfYmCI/AAAAAAAAUlk/2n_-yhVfR54/SAM_1048_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1048" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Um, prawns for lunch please</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-AOxLdTKBV6M/UFa5dw87UnI/AAAAAAAAUls/Umn9tgVakqo/s1600-h/SAM_10493.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1049" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-OZH4RZXTTJo/UFa5fHtFyfI/AAAAAAAAUl0/7_FjKfNQXnY/SAM_1049_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1049" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Karen makes a new friend</td></tr>
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A couple more visits to buy ingredients for our lunch: first some grated papaya. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-E_k8tZHeaVY/UFa5hIu5SAI/AAAAAAAAUl8/5sdOdY4ZVjA/s1600-h/SAM_10523.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1052" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-5IVseifpmVo/UFa5iv2lkLI/AAAAAAAAUmE/me8-RdfkGzs/SAM_1052_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1052" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vietnamese market</td></tr>
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<div align="left">
And finally, some fruit of our choice, to be consumed later as a lunchtime dessert. In this instance we chose some mangosteen, a soursop and a durian.</div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xMkx7fgxz-Q/UFbAFFaA6cI/AAAAAAAAUzY/2jEh5mKLpMQ/s1600/IMG_1470.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="296" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xMkx7fgxz-Q/UFbAFFaA6cI/AAAAAAAAUzY/2jEh5mKLpMQ/s400/IMG_1470.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mmmm, tasty durian</td></tr>
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<div align="left">
One of the things that attracted us to taking this tour was how much stuff they pack in. We hadn’t yet hit 8.30am and we were off to our second short stop at a furniture manufacturers. It was interesting enough but not really our bag so no photos.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div align="left">
Next up, another short stop, this time at a chilli farm. They prepare and sell chilli seedlings to local farmers. It’s an amazingly painstaking manual process. </div>
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<br /></div>
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Firstly they create tiny bamboo pots, fill them with soil and put a single chilli seed in each one. </div>
<div align="center">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-6TN1OLUS0XI/UFa5kguTs4I/AAAAAAAAUmM/8F1sgNVlZhU/s1600-h/SAM_10583.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1058" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-T_XIejCbgEQ/UFa5l51eahI/AAAAAAAAUmU/1jPe3gp82Tg/SAM_1058_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1058" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chilli farm</td></tr>
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Each pot is put on trays with its brothers and left to sprout</div>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-zlS4B5Q3jZI/UFa5naKyFAI/AAAAAAAAUmc/HoRHtUeaCx0/s1600-h/SAM_10563.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1056" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-0vCYyrM_fwQ/UFa5oTPXDRI/AAAAAAAAUmk/0V4rUeeEENA/SAM_1056_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1056" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chilli seedling</td></tr>
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Finally, when they’re ready they’re sold to the farmers to put in the big fields. Each tray holds hundreds of pots, all individually planted.</div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-fGbRAJOfE0w/UFa5r70i3sI/AAAAAAAAUms/1aeVy75lC6E/s1600-h/SAM_10553.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1055" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-4spKm4inxxk/UFa5tqVg4cI/AAAAAAAAUm0/A9y2zwadvl8/SAM_1055_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1055" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chilli nursery</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
Another short drive and it was time to get a bit closer to the countryside. We mounted our bikes and set off into a maze of rice paddies in the crystal clear morning sunshine.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-MYHKgU46SNA/UFa5wImqMxI/AAAAAAAAUm8/QFFl8l9rrOc/s1600-h/SAM_10603.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1060" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-CNCgucui4ro/UFa5x7iRSsI/AAAAAAAAUnE/z2iVX7zbGV0/SAM_1060_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1060" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I want to ride my bicycle</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-MUwCBXoeapk/UFa50XTCEUI/AAAAAAAAUnM/1IWTvc3XgBg/s1600-h/SAM_10613.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1061" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ENBaDQGBeF4/UFa51yyiygI/AAAAAAAAUnU/brVn5njVYpc/SAM_1061_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1061" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Paddy fields</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-eL5pU6khGn4/UFa531mCLrI/AAAAAAAAUnc/CucrLLoRui8/s1600-h/SAM_10633.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1063" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Rz700zBph_Q/UFa55gBc7EI/AAAAAAAAUnk/D-G0g-A5iGc/SAM_1063_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1063" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Little house on the prairie</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-xQhdec6nD28/UFa58bW8V9I/AAAAAAAAUns/8Gx4gYJzHrE/s1600-h/SAM_10643.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1064" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-rbGfmfCTCDQ/UFa594WA9MI/AAAAAAAAUn0/1n3W1rjqbS4/SAM_1064_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1064" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cycling around the Mekong</td></tr>
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<div align="left">
The next photo looks like an abandoned, half-built hotel, but it’s actually an artificial roost for the birds who’s nests are used to make birds-nest soup.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-RrvLr1Aqu8w/UFa5_x0amfI/AAAAAAAAUn8/AaS5wutj7Bk/s1600-h/SAM_10653.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1065" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-kq5RkgfYiRg/UFa6BDwyFsI/AAAAAAAAUoE/w-g4S0ft9eQ/SAM_1065_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1065" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Birds-nest soup farm</td></tr>
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<div align="left">
In the first of many challenges casually thrown our way by Anh, we were persuaded to cross an irrigation channel over this monkey bridge.</div>
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<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Gaf_rQnJq-U/UFa6Df9-1aI/AAAAAAAAUoM/5ZLTFI8OaD4/s1600-h/SAM_10683.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1068" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-2qba7zG8Zig/UFa6EsnGeiI/AAAAAAAAUoU/ApDLwNgQsjU/SAM_1068_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1068" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Funny looking monkey</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-vVbaFyexijU/UFa6GhghXII/AAAAAAAAUoc/iTRePxUcnCY/s1600-h/SAM_10703.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1070" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-hwA24SLyJn0/UFa6IJ5MdaI/AAAAAAAAUok/Aa8KYsGuJQo/SAM_1070_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1070" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Daft apeth</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-ZLZ76thDD08/UFa6KSF_coI/AAAAAAAAUos/-HmKtr7BHsM/s1600-h/SAM_10743.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1074" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-_Xyp4F9txVE/UFa6Ms_AJ6I/AAAAAAAAUo0/V7MuhONWQKU/SAM_1074_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1074" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Passing the local schoolchildren</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-21bSAp2cxRQ/UFa6OI74WHI/AAAAAAAAUo8/OQTAyUeh1Sk/s1600-h/SAM_10753.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1075" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-qz5Xo3MEpzU/UFa6Pmdt1nI/AAAAAAAAUpE/z-fYhD-48pY/SAM_1075_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1075" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mid-cycle refreshments</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Rjyju975mgI/UFa6SA4b5LI/AAAAAAAAUpM/I5YSqFPhllg/s1600-h/SAM_10773.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1077" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Cx_KzJBKw70/UFa6TkOZdyI/AAAAAAAAUpU/wHr5KeoV_Yw/SAM_1077_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1077" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stubble burning</td></tr>
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Back to the bike-hire hut for a some more refreshments, this time some freshly-pressed sugar cane juice – delicious! <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-YO2J9KUlHdQ/UFa6V_It9FI/AAAAAAAAUpc/oW9MymLZ-Qs/s1600-h/SAM_10823.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1082" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-8O8DU7kwY1s/UFa6XF2Z-pI/AAAAAAAAUpk/slyQJXf0Nv4/SAM_1082_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1082" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sugar cane juice - yum!</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-T313oU5CmZw/UFa6ZHUIbUI/AAAAAAAAUps/Z9CYbE3cAXw/s1600-h/SAM_10803.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1080" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-E28tyW3sXeA/UFa6adsX6nI/AAAAAAAAUp0/CtC-FIxQgCA/SAM_1080_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1080" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"My big brother will beat you with TWO hands tied behind his back"</td></tr>
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My last activity before being whisked off to lunch was being comprehensively beaten at billiards by that kid’s big brother. (I say ‘big’ – he was still only 8 or 9.)<br />
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Finally, lunch and the beginning of a concerted assault by Anh to ruin our waistlines. First up were the prawns, huge and juicy. Then some clams, steamed with lemongrass. Having been up for 6 hours with only a piece of banana-bread to line my stomach, I was starving, so I piled in. <br />
<br />
Big mistake – this was just the appetiser. <br />
<br />
Out came a huge bowl of fish stew/soup and three clay pots of sizzling caramelized fish (with rice on the side). At that point Anh reminded us that, in Vietnam, it’s rude to leave any food. But if you do manage to finish, then the host is then obliged to bring more food out. Catch-22. I managed to plough my way through most of it before accepting defeat and with it the risk of offending the hosts. <br />
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Stupidly, I’d forgotten the fruit we’d bought for dessert. Ordinarily this wouldn’t be too much of a problem – there’s always room for a few pieces of mangosteen – but I’d forgotten the durian. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-lPyChGzYWKM/UFa6cfX1sbI/AAAAAAAAUp8/OPgf6nhOrtc/s1600-h/SAM_10843.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1084" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-WIJQyEM-rKE/UFa6d5bLoXI/AAAAAAAAUqE/VYow0ptEff0/SAM_1084_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1084" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Durian, soursop (or custard apple) and mangosteen</td></tr>
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If you’ve never come across durian before, it’s renowned for smelling like rotting flesh but supposedly tasting like ambrosia – as long as you don’t mind your food-of-the-gods smelling like the devil’s armpit.<br />
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Earlier, when I pointed to the durian in the market, Anh got quite excited. Apparently they have an unofficial competition between tour guides on who can persuade the westerners to try the full gamut of stinky Asian food. So far, none of them had scored a durian so this was her big chance. <br />
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I can confirm that it is indeed pretty stinky. Despite being double-bagged, after two hours in the car there was a distinctly ripe aroma. That’s why durian is often banned on public transport! <br />
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Having said that, the smell wasn’t all that bad. It wasn’t rotting flesh as such, more like very, very ripe fruit. Put it this way, if you opened your fridge and this smell came out, unless you’d just bought some durian, you’d definitely be checking the back of the salad crisper for forgotten cabbage. <br />
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As you can see from the photo above, the edible part of the fruit looks like some kind of unidentified giblet. So, with nothing going for it in the looks and smell department, what about the taste?</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-QpPvt5PKtVg/UFa6f1THAtI/AAAAAAAAUqM/4w11wjykwkk/s1600-h/SAM_10863.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1086" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Eg19QDvS3aE/UFa6hAKEdAI/AAAAAAAAUqU/3bZMa9No4-4/SAM_1086_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1086" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mmmm, lovely</td></tr>
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Despite the evidence of my own face, it actually wasn’t bad. The texture was a bit like custard and the taste was quite sweet with a weird hint of onion, not unlike a ripe papaya. It wasn’t great but it wasn’t disgusting either. The Marmite of fruit, perhaps. Be warned though, it repeats on you for hours...<br />
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It was then that I made my second mistake by asking Anh what other unusual Vietnamese foods were on her list. Nothing much apparently, just some duck eggs. “Everyone who tries them loves them,” she told me. “You’ll try them too, yes?” <br />
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Again, I couldn’t really refuse without feeling like I’d somehow be surrendering my manhood. How bad could they be? More on them later.<br />
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After lunch we had a short drive to the wharf and our first taste of the Mekong itself. Before we boarded I noted to Anh that there were hundreds of dragonflies circling above the quay. “That means it’s going to rain,” she said. <br />
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Yep.<br />
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Things started out pretty calm but less than 10 minutes later, as you can see from the photos, the heavens opened.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-PlDup9d3yNE/UFa6iu-eehI/AAAAAAAAUqc/HiO89x4CAzs/s1600-h/SAM_10903.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1090" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-YV2AHpMz0S8/UFa6joT7IiI/AAAAAAAAUqk/BARgwOXxh0Q/SAM_1090_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1090" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the Mekong: before the storm</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-8tnNT-r5VnE/UFa6lAO-6yI/AAAAAAAAUqs/yvg8ibD-Ho8/s1600-h/SAM_10913.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1091" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Dc-Am4MJkAY/UFa6mJ7DKhI/AAAAAAAAUq0/g9sAOq1Ehlk/SAM_1091_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1091" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Karen and Anh in full storm gear</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Uufu6OaIMoY/UFa6nTYphSI/AAAAAAAAUq8/lxbmS5GBDbs/s1600-h/SAM_11113.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1111" border="0" height="400" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-AjgMALkHHAc/UFa6otAMLEI/AAAAAAAAUrE/bVjAEoKej3c/SAM_1111_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1111" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">M'wet</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-f_kPThh7R34/UFa6qELXfKI/AAAAAAAAUrM/Zi3uhXK3Y0c/s1600-h/SAM_11143.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1114" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-UO4BkZGn4-A/UFa6rcjxLOI/AAAAAAAAUrU/_sF6z1qV3Tk/SAM_1114_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1114" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rain on the Mekong</td></tr>
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Despite being in head-to-toe rubber ponchos, we were thoroughly soaked. The Mekong bites.<br />
<br />
Luckily, the trip was quite short, across the bay and up one of the smaller channels. Then it was back in the car and off to our hotel for the night at Can Tho.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-7PobSSHbc6w/UFa6s3BrZcI/AAAAAAAAUrc/3dz793yJNeg/s1600-h/SAM_11213.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1121" border="0" height="298" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-KaXO1B_SeKs/UFa6tzfD0rI/AAAAAAAAUrk/rMZ3ihNBL2A/SAM_1121_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1121" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from our hotel in Can Tho</td></tr>
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Just in case we were peckish, we had some Vietnamese cherries bought from the market earlier. They were quite sour but really good with some chilli salt.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-71FP3eekYyQ/UFa6voTwybI/AAAAAAAAUrs/NsHagAnzuBE/s1600-h/SAM_11183.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1118" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-AUbCjczfquw/UFa6w9hADaI/AAAAAAAAUr0/HxOpN8GAb_A/SAM_1118_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1118" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vietnamese cherries with chilli salt</td></tr>
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At a rest stop, Anh also bought us some delicious ‘polished pork’ snacks. These were cured raw pork, seasoned with a sweet basil leaf (I think) and some chilli, then wrapped in a banana leaf. <br />
<br />
And as soon as we emerged from our hotel, the eating continued. First, Anh took us for some wraps.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-9AcE1EvKJNQ/UFa6ymFmuhI/AAAAAAAAUr8/rDnDJEnLLno/s1600-h/SAM_11233.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1123" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-L9Fj6C3FFkA/UFa6z_GMa_I/AAAAAAAAUsE/aqfScdzAItI/SAM_1123_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1123" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Take one of these...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-L5B6xFAix-g/UFa61lbTpJI/AAAAAAAAUsM/CFN8GY6AfZ8/s1600-h/SAM_11243.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1124" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-_gU15Rxe2Rc/UFa624YsjNI/AAAAAAAAUsU/_va_yMY38Dw/SAM_1124_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1124" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...then wrap them in this with some herbs, dip in peanut sauce and enjoy</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-91Hqjy-SaUU/UFa648lCi0I/AAAAAAAAUsc/nmuHuO8rg2g/s1600-h/SAM_11253.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1125" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-J6dy6sAUwRg/UFa66cxAYKI/AAAAAAAAUsk/0MncEDTMkAI/SAM_1125_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1125" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just some boiled eggs?</td></tr>
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We also picked up a couple of the infamous duck eggs here. I should mention now that if you’re in any way vegetarian, you might want to skip the next part. For these were no ordinary duck eggs, they were special duck eggs: each yolk came with a beak.<br />
<br />
You may have heard about Asian people’s penchant for fertilised duck eggs. I first came across them watching an episode of Fear Factor many years ago. I thought at the time that the programme makers had to go somewhere special to find the eggs, but no, they’re on every street corner. If you see white duck eggs for sale, you can bet they'll be fertilised.<br />
<br />
By now, I was in way too deep to refuse – I couldn’t even hesitate. “First you break the top and drink the juice,” Anh instructed. So I did. To be honest, had my wife and a 20-year-old Vietnamese girl not been watching, I might have chickened out at this point (no pun intended). <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-jDayXdCPXy4/UFa68ZuL7UI/AAAAAAAAUss/3NFHcnD_sOw/s1600-h/SAM_11283.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1128" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-8w-xphoqn3I/UFa693rW5MI/AAAAAAAAUs0/ABd-xJ4WtcU/SAM_1128_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1128" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Should have had my pinky sticking out...</td></tr>
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Then you just peel the top, sprinkle a bit of salt on top and get busy with your spoon.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-1dMk8q9Bcms/UFa6_8K8WxI/AAAAAAAAUs8/_P5W4FQO2GY/s1600-h/SAM_11313.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1131" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-sVR9e8k2aoU/UFa7BCQAzFI/AAAAAAAAUtE/bD0NZ82-LUE/SAM_1131_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1131" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Duck egg with foetus</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-DUtF5Mgea9g/UFa7Dc7s4iI/AAAAAAAAUtM/EpZERxy9-uE/s1600-h/SAM_11333.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1133" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-S5Rz2szkH5k/UFa7Ek9CKaI/AAAAAAAAUtU/RVpoKnRPd9o/SAM_1133_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-width: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1133" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tastes like chicken omelette</td></tr>
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So, what are they like? Actually, not bad. Taste-wise, they’re like chicken omelette, consistency-wise, like chicken omelette. There were a couple of bones (yes, and a beak), but nothing like what I had imagined. It’s not a food I’d go searching for in future, but if I was offered one again, I’d be happy to eat it.<br />
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Fear Factor? Pah, bring on the cockroaches…<br />
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But the fun wasn’t over yet. A quick bowl of noodles and we were back on the street. Earlier I’d mentioned that I loved street food so off we went passing stalls selling barbecued eggs, grilled skewers and various pancakes. We stopped at a stall selling banana and pineapple pancakes, grilled over an open charcoal fire.<br />
<br />
“Look how it’s done,” Anh said before starting a conversation with the owner in Vietnamese. I should have paid attention because next thing I knew, the owner disappeared.<br />
<br />
“Now it’s your turn,” Anh said. Gulp.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-25UCkwcShPY/UFa7Jg3GU4I/AAAAAAAAUts/MfSXiBgUhdg/s1600-h/SAM_1140%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1140" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Uskt_xAci0Y/UFa7LU-pP1I/AAAAAAAAUt0/IMg79bZQjHA/SAM_1140_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1140" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Charcoal. Pancake. Tongs. Hold. Flip. Done.</td></tr>
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It’s harder than it looks, believe me. Apparently my ham-fisted attempts were causing much hilarity with the watching locals. Incredibly I managed to avoid dropping it in the fire. I must have been doing something right because another local appeared and started asking me how much my pancakes cost – she must have thought I was a visiting celebrity chef!<br />
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And that was the night over, oh, apart from a snail nightcap.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-UsSgHvCVarM/UFa7ND7fZtI/AAAAAAAAUt8/lldmuTwMENE/s1600-h/SAM_1145%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1145" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-W3HNOJrmYTI/UFa7OrsSmaI/AAAAAAAAUuE/kA1zCnj-E8E/SAM_1145_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1145" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Barbecued snail digestif </td></tr>
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What a day!<br />
<br />
The next morning we started bright and early (5.30am) for a dawn trip on the Mekong to see the floating markets. Few tourists get up early enough to see these as the bigger boats get there too late for the action. As promised there was plenty of fruit and veg getting thrown across the water. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-4237u_rwWps/UFa7Qt_p9oI/AAAAAAAAUuM/dLGhM0wWJfo/s1600-h/SAM_1162%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1162" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-ZGikOJdxoD0/UFa7R9RHPhI/AAAAAAAAUuU/XHX6yHs91rA/SAM_1162_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1162" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Floating market on the Mekong</td></tr>
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The boat owners advertise their cargo by tying a sample of their wares on a pole so the buyers know where to go.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-QAlR2lgsLTU/UFa7a67YquI/AAAAAAAAUvM/y9jCW6wf86Y/s1600-h/SAM_1202%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img alt="SAM_1202" border="0" height="184" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-R5brBkNqU8k/UFa7cJ-D-_I/AAAAAAAAUvU/ziu5QPV1l7A/SAM_1202_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1202" width="244" /></a><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-VbCtk4ClT4w/UFa7TWuahMI/AAAAAAAAUuc/dzdFIUMT5ic/s1600-h/SAM_1193%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img alt="SAM_1193" border="0" height="184" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-NKT327o1Iq8/UFa7UReNmDI/AAAAAAAAUuk/fzxaLLZkGVo/SAM_1193_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1193" width="244" /></a><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-kAnDaD9ae9o/UFa7V8-_65I/AAAAAAAAUus/Gn0Xx4Q0wK0/s1600-h/SAM_1197%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img alt="SAM_1197" border="0" height="184" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-3x23C7-VNT0/UFa7W6y5JkI/AAAAAAAAUu0/ZgmgCfS7qIA/SAM_1197_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1197" width="244" /></a><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-GED2lSMUKfI/UFa7YOaOAqI/AAAAAAAAUu8/4yNxjVN7TeM/s1600-h/SAM_1198%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img alt="SAM_1198" border="0" height="184" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-UBkWO_Ykmb8/UFa7ZVlMj4I/AAAAAAAAUvE/ONgHIwAhcB4/SAM_1198_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1198" width="244" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Pineapples, melons, sweet potatoes and turnips</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Then all we had to do was enjoy a peaceful cruise as the sun rose over the beautiful scenery.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-d_ZhUETuGiE/UFa7diX86rI/AAAAAAAAUvc/t0cHwemHY_E/s1600-h/SAM_1150%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1150" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-6isSJThTaaQ/UFa7elI6qTI/AAAAAAAAUvk/rMjSO4AGJNg/SAM_1150_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1150" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-25_pH1fc90s/UFa7gNLfVhI/AAAAAAAAUvs/oIjJN5lxCnY/s1600-h/SAM_1169%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1169" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-CDlaj3_ymSM/UFa7hdVWsFI/AAAAAAAAUv0/4OFHQy_OMQ0/SAM_1169_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1169" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dawn on the Mekong</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-gz-zZyftOf0/UFa7jqNC9KI/AAAAAAAAUv8/bjZLiwFSobU/s1600-h/SAM_1178%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1178" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-OhRyrnw63-E/UFa7kzmvJ8I/AAAAAAAAUwE/7oG6uTz5QHI/SAM_1178_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1178" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trip through the channels</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-r14yR-D_BXM/UFa7mtOrDWI/AAAAAAAAUwM/5VveSnHfWOY/s1600-h/SAM_1181%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1181" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-oBneWQbQm9Y/UFa7n4IAcCI/AAAAAAAAUwU/_ijYjdP8w98/SAM_1181_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1181" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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That’s a lot to pack in before breakfast!<br />
<br />
Later that morning we stopped briefly at a Cao Dai temple – a weird cross between Buddhism and Christianity as far as I can make out. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-6svm0ab34wo/UFa7qB1_gzI/AAAAAAAAUwc/qSEOh1lX4qs/s1600-h/SAM_1204%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1204" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-81dOWNU6sfM/UFa7sLXWEAI/AAAAAAAAUwk/Kr3fkX_SzNg/SAM_1204_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1204" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cao Dai temple</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Then it was on to our final stop, the Tra Su bird sanctuary near Chau Doc. After a quick lunch, we boarded a flat-bottomed boat and explored a huge, forested lake carpeted with lilies and home to various species of large bird.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-DYiJG6GHgIs/UFa7uSBXzVI/AAAAAAAAUws/-ygeRocUvTM/s1600-h/SAM_1211%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1211" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-pZ9w5n2wnNY/UFa7v0CblUI/AAAAAAAAUw0/lZ5_2T9aAmI/SAM_1211_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1211" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trip through the lilies</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-r6mAXKd7DV0/UFa7yY2ChcI/AAAAAAAAUw8/Ksqgj79y7D8/s1600-h/SAM_1212%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1212" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-BJxCkLJofKY/UFa7z3cJhxI/AAAAAAAAUxE/rUPFgtl1Dzk/SAM_1212_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1212" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lily carpet</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We then swapped boats for a oar-powered trip through the neighbouring mangrove swamps. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-quYFAEvjNJw/UFa72LTpXTI/AAAAAAAAUxM/4InPFg62p1I/s1600-h/SAM_1218%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1218" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-wE5FbUMK-5M/UFa73lqFCBI/AAAAAAAAUxU/wmiClNyKbaQ/SAM_1218_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1218" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Up the creek with a paddle</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ZW9SGyVgXAE/UFa759DukaI/AAAAAAAAUxc/5H8l8zbQu7I/s1600-h/SAM_1227%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1227" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Bl4M-0JwHhk/UFa77d4BaQI/AAAAAAAAUxk/5UN2YCNLMfQ/SAM_1227_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1227" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cormorants</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-aWTONuUk_28/UFa7-BiaWHI/AAAAAAAAUxs/fTLS8EpjZ9o/s1600-h/SAM_1232%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1232" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-HUUIrfeTXl8/UFa7_ruAIwI/AAAAAAAAUx0/Qm7-n8TDDB8/SAM_1232_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1232" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Now, where did I put my X-wing?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Finally, it was all over. There was a short delay on the journey to Chau Doc while we negotiated round a herd of geese.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-S_EbAPlj8qg/UFa8BXhD8hI/AAAAAAAAUx8/jXophhjX2-4/s1600-h/SAM_1236%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1236" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-kH9Zi53KGV4/UFa8Cn7wH_I/AAAAAAAAUyE/2Ng2uffYlNE/SAM_1236_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1236" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just honk and they'll move</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
If you’re ever in Saigon and fancy a Mekong Delta tour, I can heartily recommend this one. It wasn’t the cheapest (but not the most expensive either) but it was easily worth the cost (I’m not allowed to know exactly how much as it was part of my 40th birthday present from Karen). <br />
<br />
Our guide, Anh, went above and beyond to make sure we had a really special time. A big thanks to her and <a href="http://www.waterbuffalotours.com/" target="_blank">Water Buffalo Tours</a> for the perfect tour.<br />
<br />
And of course an even bigger thanks to Karen for treating me to a wonderful couple of days. It was probably the best tour I’ve ever been on and certainly something I’ll remember for the rest of my life. <br />
<br />
<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b>Current location: Chiang Mai until 18th September</b></span><br />
<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b>Next stop: Chiang Rai</b></span><br />
<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b><br /></b></span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17141805589023321371noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3519588895953912370.post-50195119353960767332012-08-27T06:46:00.002+01:002012-08-27T06:46:56.723+01:00A Tale of Two Tours: Part 1 - The Cu Chi Tunnels<span style="font-size: x-small;">13th August 2012</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span>
Just 30 miles north-west of Saigon lie the (in)famous Cu Chi tunnels. According to our guide, pronounce Cu Chi with the wrong inflection and it sounds like ‘penis’ (or one of its cruder cousins.) Writing it is fine though.<br />
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<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cu_Chi_tunnels" target="_blank">The tunnels</a> were the one of the distributed strongholds of the Vietcong resistance in South Vietnam during the war. They are spread out over dozens of square miles and stretch to over 250km in length. Vietnamese people literally spent years living underground in places like these. <br />
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We booked a cheapo half-day tour through our guesthouse. Saving money comes at a cost though – it took almost 90 minutes from when we got on the bus to actually get going, mainly because of the number of pickups the bus had to complete in the city. Not to worry, by midday we were there.<br />
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The tour started off with a short presentation on some of the history plus a bit on how the tunnels worked in practice – ventilation, number of levels, booby traps etc.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-y58WtVHy9TU/UDsEZBMIEmI/AAAAAAAAUg4/a23Tk6npB1I/s1600-h/SAM_1011%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1011" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Iy4b3HPxjhk/UDsEb9RE3HI/AAAAAAAAUhA/_9H8LDzaRzo/SAM_1011_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1011" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cu Chi tunnels presentation</td></tr>
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This was lent an air of authority as it was presented by a Vietnamese veteran, although slightly strangely, he was working on the American side so, as he ran patrols up the Mekong, the Vietcong in the tunnels were enemies.<br />
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Lecture over, time for the tour. How did the Vietcong get in and out?<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-ulC2oM1chyU/UDsEd8kOjJI/AAAAAAAAUhI/2XZlSRXlzHI/s1600-h/SAM_1014%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1014" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-aDJa3LD90c0/UDsEfpOMiOI/AAAAAAAAUhQ/nQU18lDUE3A/SAM_1014_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1014" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nothing to see here...</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-c3ozsQoVic0/UDsEhX_h7gI/AAAAAAAAUhY/VhPlVWMZdp4/s1600-h/SAM_1016%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1016" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-WBXa5wZvICc/UDsEiwyrfOI/AAAAAAAAUhg/M_4t5vSsdag/SAM_1016_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1016" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What the...?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
That hole is barely wider than my hips (no comment on whether my stomach fits.) A bit further on, a quick reminder to watch where you step.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-o0EzuAhSzjk/UDsEk_tQ-DI/AAAAAAAAUho/wA2VCHKb3EY/s1600-h/SAM_1012%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1012" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-iUoUMV6my4c/UDsEm7kz84I/AAAAAAAAUhw/6OLCQXPXaL4/SAM_1012_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1012" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nothing to see here, either...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-SHDMQIVdMls/UDsEpHsMH1I/AAAAAAAAUh4/sZOfTK0F9iU/s1600-h/SAM_1013%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1013" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-a8uWxBDIhEg/UDsEq_waQuI/AAAAAAAAUiA/jZtw983gYbU/SAM_1013_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1013" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ouch!</td></tr>
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And then a few more innovative ways to ruin an American soldier’s day.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-LV83Ojude2E/UDsEtC3Nw-I/AAAAAAAAUiI/9-kglLDNUvA/s1600-h/SAM_1023%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1023" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-3gcBJ6q9ZxU/UDsEuykLU4I/AAAAAAAAUiQ/a6pTKSnLe_o/SAM_1023_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1023" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Goodbye knees</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-uxnRnpdfO1M/UDsEw-TSd_I/AAAAAAAAUiY/LJD9qT8UC-Q/s1600-h/SAM_1024%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1024" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-5iaBuX2h9qI/UDsFQsHMbgI/AAAAAAAAUig/UV6h9h6a6KQ/SAM_1024_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1024" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Goodbye torso</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-eORAP2z1qlY/UDsFS9bEuBI/AAAAAAAAUio/1WVUhEzvqDk/s1600-h/SAM_1025%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1025" border="0" height="400" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-PwOsmj9d2bA/UDsFVKigTfI/AAAAAAAAUiw/YiWpfkRbe4M/SAM_1025_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1025" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Goodby world</td></tr>
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Finally it was time for the highlight, a trip down the tunnels themselves.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-wLNMWmnvW8w/UDsFWgwmMQI/AAAAAAAAUi4/4DzZsDfhL-o/s1600-h/SAM_1029%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1029" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-olCVarJnxDc/UDsFYl5v0QI/AAAAAAAAUjA/ev64XF7hKeA/SAM_1029_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1029" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This isn't the entrance</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-ggnp_6LiON0/UDsFfNrzVFI/AAAAAAAAUjY/jZWivFxNS2g/s1600-h/SAM_1033%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1033" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-0Gthr3s-6dA/UDsFg-VkUcI/AAAAAAAAUjg/SsxREaB1wXw/SAM_1033_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1033" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is the entrance</td></tr>
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This stretch of tunnel is 100m long with exits every 20m should it all get too much. It gets progressively narrower as you go along until there’s only space to crawl. It’s hot, humid, cramped and dirty – not recommended if you are in any way claustrophobic. I’m not particularly, but 20m was plenty for me. I emerged drenched in sweat with grazed knuckles and bruised knees. A few of the younger, skinnier members of our group made it all the way, emerging from the other end looking extremely bedraggled. <br />
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This was only a tiny taster of what it must have been like. This tunnel has been specially rebuilt to make it easier for tourists. As such it’s better ventilated, well sealed, illuminated in places and also it’s only a level 1 tunnel or about 3 metres underground. The real tunnels are way longer (remember 250km+ total length), often deeper (8-10m for level 2 tunnels) and sometimes as deep as 20m (for the level 3 hideouts.) The deeper they get, the more cramped and humid it gets. I managed about two minutes before I’d had enough. Actually living down there doesn’t bear thinking about, but I suppose, at the time they had little choice.<br />
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But this is a tourist spot, so they don’t let you get too thoughtful. Time for some fun. Want to sit on a rusty old tank? Alrighty, then.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-T27HLYzqHwk/UDsFjQGqpRI/AAAAAAAAUjo/pXTgT56uNRQ/s1600-h/SAM_1022%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1022" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/--TEaAbqWBps/UDsFlhHszoI/AAAAAAAAUjw/2dxEedotIOY/SAM_1022_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1022" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I'm 5 years old again</td></tr>
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<div align="left">
And just to press the point that war can be fun, there was also a firing range where you can let loose with anything from an AK-47 to a machine gun. The pacifist in me said, “No!” The adolescent in me shouted, “YES!” The miser in me won the argument – at a dollar a bullet, the adolescent would have forced an early trip home with the budget in tatters. </div>
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I had a corn-on-the-cob instead.</div>
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That was it, back on the bus and back to the hotel 7.5 hours from when we left. Not bad for a half-day tour. The Cu Chi tunnels: a must see if you’re ever in Saigon.</div>
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Next up, the Mekong Delta tour.</div>
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<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b>Current location: Siem Reap until 30th August</b></span></div>
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<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b>Next stop: Bangkok</b></span></div>
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<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b><br /></b></span></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17141805589023321371noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3519588895953912370.post-27231142292250618212012-08-24T13:01:00.001+01:002012-08-24T13:01:31.947+01:00Saigon, Ho Chi Minh City and the Reunification Palace<span style="font-size: x-small;">11th-15th July 2012</span><br />
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The original plan was to get a train from Nha Trang to Saigon, but due to them being completely booked up, we arrived in Saigon via aeroplane from Nha Trang. That was us trying to get a ticket 7 days in advance! From the airport we caught a taxi into town and as per, the driver tried to screw us out of a few extra dollars. Business as usual!<br />
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As you probably already know, Ho Chi Minh City is the city’s official name but most people still call it Saigon. So the title of this post is a scam too and you fell for it – two things for the price of three! Now you know how I feel.<br />
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Our hotel was right in the middle of the ‘Backpacker District’ which consists of the streets and alleys around Pham Ngu Lao street. This meant loads of good places for food and cheap beer.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-0A7Hh1NOx2g/UDdhLAZstmI/AAAAAAAAUYA/_FcW9QMzKBg/s1600-h/IMG_0501%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0501" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Ve-jH-VPZu0/UDdhMXO5emI/AAAAAAAAUYI/MDW2acjPL-I/IMG_0501_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0501" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drinking cheap beer on Bui Vien street, Saigon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Q9lfBtx-_XY/UDdhOXpSIoI/AAAAAAAAUYQ/Y_0iXX8gJXs/s1600-h/IMG_0504%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0504" border="0" height="400" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-AU3ClE57PvA/UDdhPllLipI/AAAAAAAAUYU/gqXUQSpb2hA/IMG_0504_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0504" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Saigon alleys</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-9a-4LKC_ZBE/UDdhRn9LJtI/AAAAAAAAUYg/wJyG3AVN0l4/s1600-h/SAM_1034%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1034" border="0" height="400" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-XkG9A20jXA8/UDdhTzfvS1I/AAAAAAAAUYo/RmCbvbD97Gs/SAM_1034_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1034" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from our hotel</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It’s about time I mentioned the Vietnamese Pho too.<br />
<br />
Pho is a noodle soup made with a beef stock, rice noodles, to which are added thinly sliced onions, beansprouts, a few chillies to taste, a dash of pepper, slices of beef, chicken or tofu and a then a huge handful of fresh leaves and herbs including mint, Thai basil, rice paddy herb, thorny coriander and others (see here for a <a href="http://http//vietworldkitchen.typepad.com/blog/vietnamese-herb-primer.html" target="_blank">Vietnamese herb primer</a>.) The result is healthy, filling and, when it’s good, absolutely delicious. It is truly a flavour explosion! The best we had in Saigon was at Quan Pho Quyn on Pham Ngo Lao street. This is one dish I’m really going to miss when we leave Vietnam.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Yc8lR8lmizI/UDdhWKK0zMI/AAAAAAAAUYw/DRS-8Ew41hk/s1600-h/IMG_0507%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0507" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-1XLnAmDfQoo/UDdhYPwhmhI/AAAAAAAAUY4/QXWF4Eclg-A/IMG_0507_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0507" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A delicious bowl of Pho for breakfast</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Although we had been warned about the traffic in Saigon, to be honest it was no worse than Hanoi and because the streets are generally wider, in some ways it was better. Traffic signals seemed to be more widely obeyed too, which meant sights like this at every junction.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-NiEE68HJDv4/UDdhZkMSVVI/AAAAAAAAUZA/8trZPlji2ts/s1600-h/IMG_0499%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0499" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-gBaVyQI4ank/UDdhbkkhNOI/AAAAAAAAUZI/DpMyqNWANy8/IMG_0499_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0499" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">3... 2... 1... Wait for it...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Elsewhere in the city, there’s the War Museum (closed when we passed by), a nice park or two, Notre Dame (not the Paris one) and the Reunification Palace.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-aa1ZDX4NMCc/UDdhdZpt1tI/AAAAAAAAUZQ/t-Cx1iZFxA8/s1600-h/SAM_1004%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1004" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-4bF1g8GSVnk/UDdhe_kqRiI/AAAAAAAAUZY/lEg5BsnWeUY/SAM_1004_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1004" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notre Dame</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-JFbm4QRD8-w/UDdhgY62SkI/AAAAAAAAUZg/Pc0BGmOB_-g/s1600-h/SAM_1036%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1036" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-7oNxvpGLstg/UDdhhjhxQAI/AAAAAAAAUZo/-5z_VEDN1Sg/SAM_1036_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1036" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A hedge dragon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-BSk5iip6lsA/UDdhihX1SAI/AAAAAAAAUZw/yEKrYXnAN4o/s1600-h/SAM_1042%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1042" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-dqpxFwYynog/UDdhkltykCI/AAAAAAAAUZ4/vs-wIN3EcPs/SAM_1042_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1042" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Where did I park my Chinook?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-lokn6Ruyroc/UDdhl0DlTZI/AAAAAAAAUaA/uItBaH58Mk8/s1600-h/SAM_1045%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_1045" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-0xdGrhd9LiA/UDdhm86dJvI/AAAAAAAAUaI/rRUQpBOztrE/SAM_1045_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_1045" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reunification Palace</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The pick of the lot was the Reunification palace. The former home and headquarters of the South Vietnamese president during the war, it has been maintained pretty much how it was which means the decor is marvellously retro.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Rpy4fefgfVc/UDdho62X95I/AAAAAAAAUaQ/VbkuKQE4rjg/s1600-h/IMG_0509%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0509" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-YgCIpJWr3As/UDdhq4KO_gI/AAAAAAAAUaY/4BvA_VDcDVQ/IMG_0509_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0509" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Banqueting hall</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-8CJEDDgsk_4/UDdhsD3jqaI/AAAAAAAAUag/AxtAW508iaA/s1600-h/IMG_0510%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0510" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/--f6ixx0y11Y/UDdhtXsA4wI/AAAAAAAAUao/shs1MkqpVVA/IMG_0510_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0510" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Board room (with shark pool underneath, I think)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-oJAIUk3x0x8/UDdhvGiTX2I/AAAAAAAAUaw/jsQEPna8vz8/s1600-h/IMG_0546%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0546" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-fBTRVm7cNbk/UDdhwQfDLWI/AAAAAAAAUa4/TeXsAGcOrrI/IMG_0546_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0546" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drawing room</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-ph6mIxjB5us/UDdhx7n2flI/AAAAAAAAUbA/_gLKbA61KY8/s1600-h/IMG_0550%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0550" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-r2cSWYQoKxc/UDdhzIRdRYI/AAAAAAAAUbI/LhVJ-HrAm7E/IMG_0550_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0550" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zen roof garden</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Rryd1UY4kDw/UDdh0ddxolI/AAAAAAAAUbQ/bu08abYaZ74/s1600-h/IMG_0552%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0552" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-_Jr7ue0xVok/UDdh2bVsjGI/AAAAAAAAUbY/iWITiHhAlgY/IMG_0552_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0552" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Library (there really was a secret door!)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-nqkYh5T191Y/UDdh4haY9DI/AAAAAAAAUbg/CLFiOGLv0mU/s1600-h/IMG_0557%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0557" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-X_H3Zyq7YBE/UDdh7XFn0aI/AAAAAAAAUbo/u6a6y7w2Va0/IMG_0557_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0557" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cinema</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-m8cjsF4XBqA/UDdh8hD86nI/AAAAAAAAUbw/rZZ2i7HLvG8/s1600-h/IMG_0558%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0558" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-td4zFBCmC4w/UDdh-jHylMI/AAAAAAAAUb4/VZWTd5Noe0Q/IMG_0558_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0558" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Piano and billards</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-n6ha30hfstg/UDdh_2BUnaI/AAAAAAAAUcA/rYfbNcYmgt4/s1600-h/IMG_0560%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0560" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-eT-7Jhbaq0E/UDdiBKkKl2I/AAAAAAAAUcI/GPTf821vkok/IMG_0560_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0560" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Retro bar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-YADh8gDrqW8/UDdiDIwJjfI/AAAAAAAAUcQ/CMk7PI4iOsM/s1600-h/IMG_0565%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0565" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-nq90tsbcP-U/UDdiEQm4ELI/AAAAAAAAUcY/qZvAWvAzHwY/IMG_0565_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0565" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rebels at the gates? Time for a swift exit.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-nLd2e777AY8/UDdiIdBNUwI/AAAAAAAAUcg/S1aj98gCBHs/s1600-h/IMG_0566%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0566" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-TWZK33SZYCY/UDdiLhn0XXI/AAAAAAAAUco/R-43A-vPuuQ/IMG_0566_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0566" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from the roof</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It was already a bit like the headquarters of an evil dictator from a spy movie. And then we got to the basement.<br />
<br />
Underneath the palace is a reinforced bunker where the president and his staff would go to direct operations during the war. I’m sure this place was used for the set of an early Bond movie. A lot of the old equipment is still there including Bakelite telephones, huge bits of radio equipment and lots of unidentified things with knobs on.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-kbZDNR6kbBk/UDdiUOsxLkI/AAAAAAAAUcw/PAtn5_7k4AA/s1600-h/IMG_0511%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0511" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-V2dpEWwD6qk/UDdiWQ-d7ZI/AAAAAAAAUc4/HHcQvUUSV_c/IMG_0511_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0511" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Destroy this"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-zEVNnY1HKRI/UDdiaXxk2pI/AAAAAAAAUdA/Vj10EebJlJ0/s1600-h/IMG_0513%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0513" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-jhwcX4FDqk4/UDdicJ6SajI/AAAAAAAAUdI/_XECQPwIDPQ/IMG_0513_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0513" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yellow phone: the President, green phone: the wife</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-5wEtbKHDAk0/UDdisoYTE7I/AAAAAAAAUdQ/AzUak6iENiY/s1600-h/IMG_0515%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0515" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Ov2GAIbm8sI/UDdivYK1G9I/AAAAAAAAUdY/X65wm4mg4oE/IMG_0515_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0515" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I'd love to hear this plugged into a guitar amp: "Turn the excitation up to 11!"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-W_FMNzKpbEs/UDdi37XCC5I/AAAAAAAAUdg/TOAxNh8BVuU/s1600-h/IMG_0516%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0516" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Rj-KBqbo2pg/UDdi77lEawI/AAAAAAAAUdo/Ar2txK-sg38/IMG_0516_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0516" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Knobs</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-G-oGbqCjfBE/UDdjAjZQpII/AAAAAAAAUdw/VPKROSXsCHM/s1600-h/IMG_0519%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0519" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-KI8MPmx9DtI/UDdjCzWyQlI/AAAAAAAAUd4/yyIzFEnPngs/IMG_0519_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0519" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">KNOBS!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-3KGscYlsq0k/UDdjGIZU6OI/AAAAAAAAUeA/XzIWaTdylKE/s1600-h/IMG_0525%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0525" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Z0zYQ15VmwU/UDdjIL1zPlI/AAAAAAAAUeI/Knfd2II4ht4/IMG_0525_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0525" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"I'm So Ronery"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-CFm7qxCICSg/UDdjKDG1hYI/AAAAAAAAUeQ/Na6lFMBZV-A/s1600-h/IMG_0527%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0527" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-lYabUaMEUx8/UDdjMGaT4WI/AAAAAAAAUeY/1vCF_rZlktY/IMG_0527_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0527" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The President's bed</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-KZtaJz8zlJU/UDdjPU8wwzI/AAAAAAAAUeg/oh2HUznWVSQ/s1600-h/IMG_0529%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0529" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-fIARyA5EcMk/UDdjRa9yNQI/AAAAAAAAUeo/SvDMpZ6GY-c/IMG_0529_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0529" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The President's chair: "Get me the Kremlin!"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-sa0hAuhMUvc/UDdjXNpE0zI/AAAAAAAAUfA/JAYzfJbF8V0/s1600-h/IMG_0532%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0532" border="0" height="400" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ugxYs1w4OQA/UDdjZEuQm8I/AAAAAAAAUfI/Dmv-wJ9G3EQ/IMG_0532_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0532" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">When I took this photo, the corridor was empty...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-OqXl0D7FHEU/UDdjbW0_M8I/AAAAAAAAUfQ/RdF5pU_10VI/s1600-h/IMG_0540%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0540" border="0" height="400" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-GKD7AYa2-FI/UDdjdfOOxII/AAAAAAAAUfY/oRBHH2JwTDM/IMG_0540_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0540" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pretty impressive parking</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-JjyTw1zJBrU/UDdjep2LlUI/AAAAAAAAUfg/RQcLYQYzOYQ/s1600-h/IMG_0543%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0543" border="0" height="400" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-2wqYA9q8cM0/UDdjgDrUzeI/AAAAAAAAUfo/lu7gr2y4yNg/IMG_0543_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0543" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">If the pink phone rings, whatever you do, don't answer it...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It was like playing a real-life version of Impossible Mission* on the Commodore 64. I loved that game. I swear, had an electricity-spitting robot come around the corner right then, I would have tried to somersault over it and started searching the furniture for snoozes.<br />
<br />
Fabulous.<br />
<br />
So that was Saigon – pretty cool place which I’d be more than happy to go back to. Next up, a tale of two tours – the Cu Chi tunnels and the Mekong Delta. Stay tuned…<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>* or more recently for any kids reading: Goldeneye on the N64 – what? it's how old? 15 years?</i></span><br />
<br />
<br />
<b><span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;">Current location: Siem Reap until 30th August</span></b><br />
<b><span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;">Next stop: Bangkok!</span></b><br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17141805589023321371noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3519588895953912370.post-37386181152825589132012-08-19T11:11:00.002+01:002012-08-19T11:11:58.407+01:00Nha Trang<span style="font-size: x-small;">5th-11th August 2012</span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span>
Finally, it was time to visit a place in Vietnam that doesn't begin with an 'H'. When I said in my last post that the relaxation had to come to end, I lied, starting with the train to Nha Trang. There were no night time sleepers available so we ended up taking a daytime sleeper. A 10 hour train journey has never been so relaxing.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-CXJtEnT7nrs/UDC2DTdI4FI/AAAAAAAAUV0/f-EwjDjG4G0/s1600-h/SAM_0993%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0993" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-pUPFjhANTrs/UDC2E9FQs0I/AAAAAAAAUV8/y2eM9wQS6P4/SAM_0993_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0993" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Soft sleeper carriage on the way to Nha Trang</td></tr>
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And when we arrived, there was nothing much else to do in but to continue relaxing. Our hotel gave us a room on the 4th floor – a bit of a pain since they had no lift, but all the better because it meant we had a view of the beach.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-185PTJwaTdw/UDC2HEmVl3I/AAAAAAAAUWE/aLJfg-ZXtyE/s1600-h/SAM_0995%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0995" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-x42FoJGORs8/UDC2Iga2ZEI/AAAAAAAAUWM/j6KlNkKVmmM/SAM_0995_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0995" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nha Trang beach</td></tr>
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There were plenty of good restaurants and bars nearby. We had really good Indian food a couple of times in a place called Ganesh and loads of good Vietnamese food, including an even better version of the pomelo salad which came on a giant black-sesame-flavoured prawn cracker. Delicious!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-wd-AJ-QmyIY/UDC2KSydG_I/AAAAAAAAUWU/1k0mJBaCv7o/s1600-h/IMG_0476%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0476" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-hClzNKyByfg/UDC2MWWDNAI/AAAAAAAAUWc/5ePpLGIrIK8/IMG_0476_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0476" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pomelo salad</td></tr>
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For the record, pomelo is a bit like grapefruit – just as juicy but less sour and more sweet.<br />
<br />
We also discovered a new fruit – the soursop or custard apple. It looks a bit scary (the best ones to buy should have white spots and be covered in ants apparently) but they’re simple to peel and inside the flesh is pale and juicy with a sweet-sour taste. There are quite a few seeds but they’re fairly large and easy to spit out. They’re pretty good and if you see them, definitely worth trying.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-psJVaU3CmHA/UDC2OVOuo2I/AAAAAAAAUWk/O9rf9vAyiQQ/s1600-h/SAM_0998%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0998" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Pj0aVlk8CM4/UDC2Pm4Sb7I/AAAAAAAAUWs/80PIqOR9ri4/SAM_0998_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0998" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A custard apple, soon to be sued by the black thing on the left</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Other than that, there’s not a great deal to do in Nha Trang. I tried to take another cookery course but was scuppered this time by late cancellations from the rest of the class. The beach was a two-minute walk away and really quiet until about 4.30pm when the Vietnamese arrive. Even then, most Spanish and French beaches I’ve seen are much busier. Unfortunately, the experience was slightly spoiled by the high volume of litter floating in the sea. Compared to the beach in Hoi An, it was pretty nasty. Nothing spoils a nice swim more than a plastic bag full of dirty tissues round your legs (other than a jellyfish I suppose – none of those in Nha Trang luckily.)<br />
<br />
Aside from a couple of walks up and down the promenade, that was it. Across the bay lies Vinpearl island, home to the Vinpearl theme park. The only way to get there is via a giant cable-car and although I do love a <a href="http://www.jameshoskin.com/2012/07/zhangjiajie-tianmen-mountain.html" target="_blank">giant cable-car ride</a>, I resisted this time.<br />
<br />
They say the devil makes work for idle hands so one slow afternoon I got fed up with my patchy beard and sculpted it into this follicular masterpiece.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-XgdUmDk3hC4/UDC2R9IZOKI/AAAAAAAAUW0/V8HTZqjbOeg/s1600-h/IMG_0497%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0497" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-S38MkOOdNMs/UDC2TlseXgI/AAAAAAAAUW8/QYHV2_1_rs0/IMG_0497_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0497" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
All I need now is a couple of tattoos (forehead and knuckles, I think) and the prison look will be complete.<br />
<br />
Hopefully there’ll be more to report from Saigon (hint: there will be…) so watch out for my next post in the next couple of days.<br />
<br />
<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b>Current location: Phnom Penh until 23rd August</b></span><br />
<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b>Next stop: Siem Reap</b></span><br />
<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b><br /></b></span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17141805589023321371noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3519588895953912370.post-50720687021374273032012-08-18T12:58:00.001+01:002012-08-18T12:58:13.831+01:00Hoi An<span style="font-size: x-small;">31st July - 5th August</span><br />
<br />
Since arriving in Asia, we’d been keeping up a pretty hectic pace. The sheer distances involved make sure of that. So, as we arrived in Hoi An, it was time to take things a little easier. <br />
<br />
It’s only 100km or so from Hue to Hoi An. We resisted numerous attempts to persuade us to take the trip by motorbike and got the train to Danang followed by a short bus ride on to Hoi An. The train part was very memorable, winding through hills and over viaducts, with fabulous sea views all along the route.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-C2wHY3-2oDQ/UC96hKCfeGI/AAAAAAAAUSQ/QypUg6zF7k8/s1600-h/SAM_0944%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0944" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-HIGqq51z8Go/UC96oTMgl8I/AAAAAAAAUSY/Y8fbGZp4vGw/SAM_0944_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0944" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mmmm, wood effect plastic veneer, nice</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-sS8rtqK546Y/UC96r-t1J_I/AAAAAAAAUSg/zwN3U89DPWM/s1600-h/SAM_0967%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0967" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-qiaqL7K0kBc/UC963da8eRI/AAAAAAAAUSo/m_ypoAhKRyU/SAM_0967_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0967" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from the train</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-cfTa-yFBTSo/UC97BVMWr-I/AAAAAAAAUSw/qUK5Gs-E-RA/s1600-h/SAM_0971%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0971" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-3lX-ZrkRAAY/UC97Oy3pSOI/AAAAAAAAUS4/0OUoYH7aHwc/SAM_0971_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0971" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another view from the train</td></tr>
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So far so good. Next up, getting the bus to Hoi An. For this bit, we hooked up with another British couple, Stuart and Jess (or Jen?) who were going the same way. Our research told us where to get the bus and that it would cost between 15,000 and 18,000 Dong. Cue yet another Vietnamese scam. *Sigh*<br />
<br />
Basically, this con involved the conductor (if you can call him that) demanding 50,000 Dong instead of 15,000 for the trip. So far, so expected – our research said we should just be firm, refuse and insist on paying the correct fare. In a new twist however, as spotted by Stuart, he roped the other locals on the bus into the trick. He would make a big show of receiving a 50,000 Dong note from them, and then, when he thought we weren’t looking, slip the note back to them and charge them the normal fare (well spotted by Stuart.) <br />
<br />
This was all very entertaining until, when he realised that we weren’t going to pay up, his accomplice (the trainee conductor presumably) made a big, noisy show of threatening to throw our luggage off the already moving bus. Again, the rest of the locals on the bus thought this was just fine. Not so funny. Eventually he accepted 25,000 Dong each – mysteriously half of the original asking price. <br />
<br />
After two months travelling using public transport in China, nothing like this ever happened. After two weeks in Vietnam, these two idiots could not have made us feel less welcome in their country. The shame of it all is that most Vietnamese are amazingly friendly, some of the warmest people we've met while travelling. But the actions of a self-serving minority are not helping the country’s reputation.<br />
<br />
For the record, if you’re ever getting the public bus from Danang to Hoi An, here are the two jokers to look out for. Pinky (the trainee) is on the left with the cap and Perky (the conductor) is on the right in the yellow T-shirt. The rest of their unofficial posse are behind them.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-GdXOoSjE3_I/UC97VFzcD_I/AAAAAAAAUTA/p3_KGatFvPU/s1600-h/IMG_0456%25255B4%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0456" border="0" height="404" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-s-j3cESCbaM/UC97Y0HkqUI/AAAAAAAAUTI/NXIrr_yrcPo/IMG_0456_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0456" width="304" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This would never happen in Japan...</td></tr>
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Putting things into perspective, overall this was just a tiny blip in what has been a great trip through Vietnam so far and we got back on track as soon as we arrived in Hoi An.<br />
<br />
Everyone we met before we left Scotland and during our travels have all raved about Hoi An. And rightly so, for it is lovely. A maze of bustling streets are nestled next to a quiet river. There only seems to be two types of shop: restaurants and tailors. Unfortunately, there are so many, it’s hard to tell the good from the bad. We weren’t in the market for a bespoke suit so we just had to work out the restaurants. Luckily, Hoi An is a bit of a foodie town so it’s hard to go wrong. We found this little place next to the river for a snack and some Bia Hoi.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-WWeudACx3fA/UC97c8KoJhI/AAAAAAAAUTQ/UVQs9N44RME/s1600-h/IMG_0441%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0441" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-_QFXccg74MI/UC97nKdzq7I/AAAAAAAAUTY/u4n1YZUBNH4/IMG_0441_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0441" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Oi! No photos!"</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-KqFQTp3bL1E/UC97rPWLbEI/AAAAAAAAUTg/Da44FPBDAfc/s1600-h/SAM_0977%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0977" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-8JiF6p3Wwk4/UC97ugZeRgI/AAAAAAAAUTo/v4JihI_-tOA/SAM_0977_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0977" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Only 12p a glass</td></tr>
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We also ate in a lovely restaurant called Dao Tien. Most restaurants offer some kinds of cooking class and I tried to get on courses at both of these restaurants but alas, as I was the only potential student, they both cancelled. Hmpf.<br />
<br />
In our five days there we did very little apart from pootle around the streets and eat great food. I had my first pomelo salad at one place – now my favourite salad replacing the one that comes with a beefburger and chips in UK pubs. Every month they also celebrate the Full Moon Festival where the street lights are turned off and the town is decked in hanging lanterns. A few streets are freed from cars and motorbikes and the locals wear traditional dress, recite poetry, perform scenes from ancient operas. Although we didn’t see much poetry or opera going on, with the lanterns and the peace and quiet from the lack of motorbikes, it was all very romantic.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-BDb5BMlttas/UC973O5IPhI/AAAAAAAAUTw/NSjo8HkmyWI/s1600-h/SAM_0981%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0981" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-sOzcgZ3udS0/UC976K7wgoI/AAAAAAAAUT4/WFEUWuXtJaU/SAM_0981_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0981" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Normal bridge in Hoi An</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-ypXAoy2ic6Q/UC979WCMXJI/AAAAAAAAUUA/swaBIQaFeRI/s1600-h/SAM_0986%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0986" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-GEB34rsSz6E/UC98Cf44QwI/AAAAAAAAUUI/jo52yC2cA6Y/SAM_0986_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0986" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Japanese </i>bridge in Hoi An</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-ubt_oPL9yiw/UC98EhaLKqI/AAAAAAAAUUQ/AljgrTwYsAo/s1600-h/SAM_0987%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0987" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-ez8KKs96tMI/UC98T-xyfcI/AAAAAAAAUUY/iYr6gsXvODQ/SAM_0987_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0987" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Full Moon Festival</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-zbCaUjOM3A4/UC98YiYwHvI/AAAAAAAAUUg/Gye9sjlA75c/s1600-h/SAM_0988%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0988" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-laguq9U0aNU/UC98bcoCnAI/AAAAAAAAUUo/-1hqDPrjfOc/SAM_0988_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0988" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lovely lanterns</td></tr>
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Our hotel was about 1km out of the main part of town and about 3km the other way is the sea. To get there, it’s an easy and picturesque 20 minute ride on hired bikes. Unbelievably, this was our first chance on this trip to get in the sea, so we did! <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-FuOb26Mv8mQ/UC98ffhwo9I/AAAAAAAAUUw/6oFUhpfq2Ec/s1600-h/IMG_0440%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IMG_0440" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-tQWYAv5tRcY/UC98kk9e8BI/AAAAAAAAUU4/aywKbY1le-8/IMG_0440_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="IMG_0440" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yes, I am holding my breath </td></tr>
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Finally, the relaxation had to come to and end and it was time to leave. Rather than brave public transport again, we arranged a taxi back to Danang and then onwards by train to Nha Trang.<br />
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Seeing as I’m now a good two weeks behind in my blogging duties (and in a different country), I promise to post the rest of our Vietnamese adventures in the next couple of days, so stay tuned!<br />
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<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b>Current location: Phnom Penh until 23rd August</b></span><br />
<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b>Next stop: Siem Reap</b></span><br />
<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b><br /></b></span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17141805589023321371noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3519588895953912370.post-71903487663720747142012-08-10T10:22:00.000+01:002012-08-10T10:22:47.072+01:00Hue<span style="font-size: x-small;">28th-31st July 2012</span><br />
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Our time in Hanoi over, we headed next to the town of Hue, about 350 miles south. This was our first chance to experience the Vietnamese train system. Buying a ticket at the station was more complicated than it should have been. They had a ticketing system at the entrance to decide who’s turn it was to get served. After about 30 minutes of waiting, it became clear that the system wasn’t working, mainly because the two girls behind the counter were just serving anyone who wandered up. In the end I did likewise.<br />
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Despite buying our tickets a good 7 days in advance, there were no soft sleeper berths available, so we ended up on the top bunks of a hard sleeper. This turned out not too badly. Unlike the Chinese hard sleepers, which consist of open rows of three-tier bunks, submarine style, these were very similar to the soft sleepers in that each compartment had its own door. The only real difference was there were six bunks to a compartment rather than four. The beds were fairly comfy and it wasn’t too hard to get up and down from the top bunk. <br />
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However, we were sharing with a Vietnamese family who had crammed six people into the remaining four beds – four adults and two young girls. This was not an issue in itself but two of the adults (the two grandmas it looked like) thought it would be great fun to encourage the two kids stay up talking until 2am. Then, sure enough, as dawn broke at 5am, they were up and chattering again. I’m not the best early riser anyway, but that morning I was not a happy chap, especially as when we got off the train at about 9am, they were all happily snoozing away, catching up on their lost kip. Made me wish I’d packed my trumpet.<br />
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Hue itself was very nice. We only stayed there a few days, more as a stop-off on our way to Hoi An. It’s close to the old DMZ and if you’re interested in that kind of thing, there are trips available. We chose just to relax and enjoy the scenery. We were initially tempted to hire a moped to explore some of the ancient tombs around the town but despite Hue being way less busy than Hanoi, we were put off by seeing two motorbike accidents in our first day. Luckily no-one was badly hurt. A quick review of our travel insurance confirmed that neither of us were covered so the idea suddenly became much less attractive.<br />
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In place of a moped we did, after some fierce negotiation by Karen, take a boat trip up the river.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-dHK7qvjRenk/UCTMIRZkrkI/AAAAAAAAUOU/6CwIeKXwMEY/s1600-h/SAM_0906%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0906" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-hCF9J3qQo9k/UCTMLn_DEKI/AAAAAAAAUOc/Ax0klv9L-EM/SAM_0906_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0906" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hue river boats</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-mdxyMhBo96A/UCTMPjTORNI/AAAAAAAAUOk/lN5veYe2jsU/s1600-h/SAM_0909%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0909" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-K8GOnsYdYSE/UCTMRWx6jGI/AAAAAAAAUOs/LiGh2HrQXtI/SAM_0909_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0909" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waterlogged? Mmmm, bad, even by my standards</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-_3Ua11rIAaM/UCTMVAQd3rI/AAAAAAAAUO0/L3H9sjuGJ8c/s1600-h/SAM_0912%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0912" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-RPyu3MagC3w/UCTMXlUrXXI/AAAAAAAAUO8/ID2pg2KnKiQ/SAM_0912_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0912" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Water Buffalo by the river</td></tr>
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The destination was the local pagoda.<br />
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<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-cDJvklx9mz8/UCTMaVQk9wI/AAAAAAAAUPE/X8b0wFy9j0E/s1600-h/SAM_0917%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img alt="SAM_0917" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-8L5lhtHgUJA/UCTMc5SyEZI/AAAAAAAAUPM/p9vrAcboaHM/SAM_0917_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0917" width="229" /></a><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-ufdkPi1ik-o/UCTMsAbth-I/AAAAAAAAUPU/5KUQKJ3KQbs/SAM_0920%25255B3%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800"><img alt="SAM_0920" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-xEsFRZrY--w/UCTMzeZWy0I/AAAAAAAAUPc/QZNlEYNkhhU/SAM_0920_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border-bottom: 0px; border-left: 0px; border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0920" width="229" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-VHkgjaKuVng/UCTM15d1HYI/AAAAAAAAUPk/zgu0SB9306k/s1600-h/SAM_0922%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0922" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-EWZhHgODiws/UCTM5JCSWiI/AAAAAAAAUPs/0U25o0eeXiQ/SAM_0922_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0922" width="229" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Karen makes a new friend</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-iSv7xsEUB2A/UCTM9NJ-QRI/AAAAAAAAUP0/o_SN5eNejN8/s1600-h/SAM_0932%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0932" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Y-OxbB4B3J0/UCTM_KVpKrI/AAAAAAAAUP8/56-L00S-Oiw/SAM_0932_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0932" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from the pagoda gardens</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-KNoTzUgVKZE/UCTNC26zP6I/AAAAAAAAUQE/kb-B-vox0i4/s1600-h/SAM_0937%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0937" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-IJkLNesad40/UCTNFEFU7nI/AAAAAAAAUQM/ljznqOF6teI/SAM_0937_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0937" width="229" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This tree is very small, Karen is far away</td></tr>
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Elsewhere in Hue, we took a wander around the Citadel and just relaxed and enjoyed the peace and quiet.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Citadel at Hue</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Extreme exfoliation</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-iX2rZWvK2OY/UCTNqcEgELI/AAAAAAAAUQ8/R1WO1oiB2c0/s1600-h/SAM_0904%25255B3%25255D.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="SAM_0904" border="0" height="304" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-TCzxo_9VLiI/UCTNshvs_CI/AAAAAAAAURA/NquoZr-eXMo/SAM_0904_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" style="background-image: none; border: 0px; display: inline; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;" title="SAM_0904" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hue citadel</td></tr>
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Next update coming soon from the lovely Hoi An!<br />
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<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b>Current Location: Nha Trang until 11th August</b></span><br />
<span style="color: purple; font-size: x-small;"><b>Next Stop: Saigon</b></span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17141805589023321371noreply@blogger.com0